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Fuel relay rapid clicking

Old Sep 1, 2019 | 05:12 PM
  #1  
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Fuel relay rapid clicking

Just got done fixing my car after the spark plugs blew out. Car sat for a year before I was able to fix it. Now when I go to start it the fuel relay just clicks rapidly. Pulled out the fuel relay 15amp fuse and it stopped. Not sure what to check. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!
 
Old Sep 1, 2019 | 07:33 PM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by Phantisy
Car sat for a year before I was able to fix it.
Sounds like your battery is dead.
 
Old Sep 1, 2019 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by beardedGTI
Sounds like your battery is dead.
I just put a new battery in it today. It's not that.
 
Old Sep 1, 2019 | 08:28 PM
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Can you put a voltmeter on it to see what happens when you try to start? Rapid switching means either the relay itself is bad or that you have insufficient voltage to keep it on. My guess is probably the latter. Given that it was sitting for so long, the starter might be seized and that's your voltage drop.
 
Old Sep 1, 2019 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by beardedGTI
Can you put a voltmeter on it to see what happens when you try to start? Rapid switching means either the relay itself is bad or that you have insufficient voltage to keep it on. My guess is probably the latter. Given that it was sitting for so long, the starter might be seized and that's your voltage drop.
The car will turnover fine. I have a volt meter to test it. I'll try jumping from another car to see if that stops the clicking. It will click with the key sitting in the on position without even trying to start it.
 
Old Sep 1, 2019 | 11:33 PM
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"Frozen" gas pump, perhaps. To check:
expose gas pump cover and unplug wiring connector
using suitable jumpers connect 12 volt cordless drill (without the battery) to the pump power source wires.
Turn ignition on, the drill should spin for 2 seconds, then stop
if relay still clicks the there is intermittent signal from PCM or defective relay or bad ground wire from pump negative to the body
Now get power tool battery pack ( 9 to 12 volts); identify polarity, then momentary hook it up in reverse direction to the pump, using jumpers (one with 15 amp fuse);
This may free up the frozen pump motor.
Next, hook up the battery in normal direction and see if pump runs
 
Old Sep 2, 2019 | 08:02 AM
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I remove only the 15amp fuel pump fuse and be clicking.
I remove only the fuel pump relay (blue one?) still be hear clicking.

Is it possible that I could have hooked one of the connectors under the hood to the wrong sensor when I put everything back together? Pretty sure I didn't though.

Pulled out other relays one at a time. Clicking stopped and I heard my fuel pump prime. Replace the relays. Clicking continues.

Clicking is not coming from any of the relays in the front of the fuse panel. Maybe one behind it? Video of what I hear.... https://youtu.be/MEQW0yWvzWk

Update:
Attached an image. There are 2 relays for the fuel system. If I only take the one marked 1 out, the clicking stopped and I could hear the fuel pump prime. If I only take out the one marked 2, I cannot hear the fuel pump prime and it rapidly clicks like I'm the video.
 

Last edited by Phantisy; Sep 2, 2019 at 08:35 AM.
Old Sep 2, 2019 | 10:47 AM
  #8  
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Resolved! I plugged in my GPS tracking device into the odb Port and the car started right up. Now it's running and will start without the device plugged in. Guess something was triggered in the system that made the relay click and the device did... Something 🤷. Need to redo the valve adjustment because it sounds slightly like a VW diesel though. Thanks for all the help!
 
Old Sep 3, 2019 | 10:17 AM
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Moral of the story: OBD port is to be used for the name brand OBD-2 scanner bought from reputable place. Plug your other items into your [censored] if necessary!
 
Old Sep 3, 2019 | 11:12 AM
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That is scary. Glad you got it sorted. Nice job!
 
Old Sep 4, 2019 | 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by doctor J
"Frozen" gas pump, perhaps. To check:
expose gas pump cover and unplug wiring connector
using suitable jumpers connect 12 volt cordless drill (without the battery) to the pump power source wires.
Turn ignition on, the drill should spin for 2 seconds, then stop
if relay still clicks the there is intermittent signal from PCM or defective relay or bad ground wire from pump negative to the body
Now get power tool battery pack ( 9 to 12 volts); identify polarity, then momentary hook it up in reverse direction to the pump, using jumpers (one with 15 amp fuse);
This may free up the frozen pump motor.
Next, hook up the battery in normal direction and see if pump runs
THAT is what I understand to be "gangster".
Field mechanic stuff gotta show some appreciation.

Its unsettling to think another system hooked up to the OBD port could cause such an error, but I suppose that said harness is straight to the brain. I wish people had one of those!

For GPS I've been more or less satisfied using Google Maps via the phone connected to the aux port, but there may be better pay to play applications depending on your needs.
Super glad that was your issue though. When one dives deeper than usual and stays down longer, its more likely that at one point or another a task might be rushed, overlooked or half done. Congrats on the resolution and nice work by all participants!
 
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