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I would NEVER add a display to a car.......talk about ultra dangerous......lol.........because sh*t happens in a SPLIT SECOND.....so you do NOT EVER want to take your eyes off the road.
I'm willing to bet accidents have gone up SIGNIFICANTLY as a result of these 'displays'
Cleaning the fingers worked for only a couple of months on my 2012 Fit and it was a real pain to unsolder the encoder intact. I ended up replacing the encoder which is a lot easier because you can cut the 6 mounting tabs and 3 leads and then unsolder them later individually after removing the encoder.
The encoder is an Alps Alpine part number EC40A1520403 and is in stock at Mouser as part number 688-EC40A1520403 Alps Alpine encoder for Honda Fit at Mouser
I took mine apart when it failed in the same way. It is a very labor intensive process with lots of de-soldering and delicate parts. My fix lasted a about a year. The 2nd time, I replaced it as Red_05.
It is a digital mechanism that that uses brass fingers on the back of the knob to "skip" across lands on the PC board. I suspect the grease/lube becomes conductive and causes the erratic behavior. You can buy an aftermarket face plate to convert to double-DIN as I did.
Some pics for reference:
Front of PC board Back of PC board It was cheap and you get what you pay for. Wouldn't necessarily recommend ATOTO.
It's pretty easy to get to the circuit board. Remove the 4 black screws ( red arrows) and 3 smaller silver screws (blue arrows) and the radio chassis pulls straight off.
After the radio chassis is removed unscrew the 4 silver screws ( green arrows) and release the ribbon cable by sliding the lock up on the connector.
The outer knob on the volume control that rotates can be carefully pried straight off and the board will be able to be removed.
It's pretty easy to get to the circuit board. Remove the 4 black screws ( red arrows) and 3 smaller silver screws (blue arrows) and the radio chassis pulls straight off.
After the radio chassis is removed unscrew the 4 silver screws ( green arrows) and release the ribbon cable by sliding the lock up on the connector.
The outer knob on the volume control that rotates can be carefully pried straight off and the board will be able to be removed.
NP. You need to remove the center assembly in order to remove the encoder.
Unscrew the two small screws holding the center assembly and pry apply the two release tabs and the center assembly can slide out.
Cleaning the fingers worked for only a couple of months on my 2012 Fit and it was a real pain to unsolder the encoder intact. I ended up replacing the encoder which is a lot easier because you can cut the 6 mounting tabs and 3 leads and then unsolder them later individually after removing the encoder.
The encoder is an Alps Alpine part number EC40A1520403 and is in stock at Mouser as part number 688-EC40A1520403 Alps Alpine encoder for Honda Fit at Mouser
I've finally taken the Bull by the horns.......or the Tiger by the Tail......so to speak.......
Currently trying to desolder the encoder......used desoldering braid, but I think I'll resort to cutting them like you did......
Then I can install the new decoder.........thanks again for all your help on this.....
Ok.....Done........just need to reinstall the Radio.
I had some problem with the side tabs on the encoder. They have a bend in them to allow them to click onto the circuit board.....I had to file on those holes with a needle file.., cause some solder or something was in there.......I also took needle nose pliers and straightened those bends.....And one tab wouldn't go in all the way, so I took a scalpel and cut a little on one side where some solder was stuck I guess...........After cutting the tabs, I used a small vise grip on one end and hit the solder on the other end, and pulled them out...
Overall I'd give this job an 8 on difficulty....
Needed and luckily HAD a needle soldering iron for those 3 little pins.........
But it would have been a LOT harder without the detailed pics.......
