I have had some conversations about motor mounts and I have had some conflicting opinions. From what I can tell Honda likes to keep them soft so they move around.
I have attached a video of the movement form just letting out the clutch in 1st and reverse.

 

Can't open the vid :{

 

https://photos.app.goo.gl/52TpzFR1bdqQkpUn6

sorry I’m still trying to figure that part out

 

Oh no no no the torque strut is blown and the rest should be inspected. thats not. acceptable.
Man I was thinking "are you gonna want polyurethane mounts or something?

The OEM mounts are amazing. I have to set our pressure washer in the grass to keep it from walking down the driveway. Our tacoma, just straight up plopped onto rubber, vibrates like a s.o.b. our washing machine.. don't ask.
but the L15 in the fit is hung beautifully. It just sits there all quiet-like.

I'd say the question you've gotta ask is if you want to try poly mounts or if you're going to try shopping for OEM mounts/bite the bullet and head to the dealer.

Anchor, DEA Marmon.. have embarrassing finished products based on my experience with other cars.

yeah.. if my day job was cranking out bubbly, overspray caked rubber for one of those guys, i would never go to work sober.

 

@Pyts Good info, Señor Pyts.

I'm going to watch a video on torque strut replacement. Just to get educated.

 

Aw, shucks! 😋 too kind, my friend.

The torque strut is a type of engine mount purposed specifically to stop engine rotation -- a necessary fixture for transverse mounted (front wheel drive) engines. It's often shaped like and referred to as a dog bone. You'll see them on motorcycles, too, where in some instances you can purchase an extended torque strut to serve as a "lowering link". In the case of our little cars, it's mounted on the underside of the engine, between the engine and the "firewall"/cab. Or maybe it's attached to the transmission? I can't recall!!

But yeah! It keeps the engine from rolling in the engine bay, wearing out the other mounts supporting the engine's weight. That rotational force should all be going to the wheels! A little give is fine. Just enough to isolate vibration and keep the tires from spinning a teensy bit in place on take-off/shocking the clutch/torque converter with sudden motion. But you shouldn't see your engine rock back. It wants to, but shouldn't. Just like I want to go back to bed!

 

So I should start looking to replace that soon? And from what you are saying is to just get OEM a mount and don't get the "upgrade" with a harder mount?

 

I'd say mounts should have been/be replaced by the 20 year mark unless there's indication of failure or you've endeavored to keep your car in a like-new state regarding performance, etc.

With fresh OE mounts, adjusted valves, healthy and secure spark plugs, and no other failed parts fuckery left ignored, your engine could be virtually vibration/resonance-free at idle.

Upgrading to poly mounts would be a trade-off. Your throttle would feel more connected to the wheels and the engine would be even more secured against motion (in all directions) during aggressive driving. but you'd likely accelerate wear on intermediary power transmitting components to some small degree, and idle vibration would be amplified notably.
I figure cost and interest should determine what's done, but for the regular owner, go OEM. I'm too far backlogged on basic preventative maint to deal with my unbroken but older mounts