hatchback unlocks with the keyfob but won't allow remote locking
hatchback unlocks with the keyfob but won't allow remote locking
I have a new tailgate on my collision damaged car, everything works fine now: hatchback handle works to open it, if I double click the key for central unlocking everything unlocks, including the hatchback.
The central locking won't work though, I have to lock the car with the key. The door open idiot light is always on in the car and this slowly drains the battery over two or three days if the car isn't used.
I'm assuming the sensor in the lock is not triggered, maybe something is just slightly off when the lock closes around the lower body shell hoop.
I've swapped out the lock in the replacement tailgate for the original one but have the same issue with both.
The sensor trigger is hidden inside the latch assembly so I can't see what needs to be adjusted.
The closing latch seems to have two positions with the second one 'fully closed' ie just a small circle to encircle the loop metal. I'm assuming maybe my car locks in the first partially closed position but can't achieve the second tighter enclosure.
Has anyone pulled the latch apart by drilling out the rivets? I need to figure out how to get the sensor to be triggered so remote central locking works again and the open door light off.
I may push the body in a fraction with a portapower to see if that gets it to line up tighter but don't want to cause more problems, knowing where the sensor is and how it works would help.
The central locking won't work though, I have to lock the car with the key. The door open idiot light is always on in the car and this slowly drains the battery over two or three days if the car isn't used.
I'm assuming the sensor in the lock is not triggered, maybe something is just slightly off when the lock closes around the lower body shell hoop.
I've swapped out the lock in the replacement tailgate for the original one but have the same issue with both.
The sensor trigger is hidden inside the latch assembly so I can't see what needs to be adjusted.
The closing latch seems to have two positions with the second one 'fully closed' ie just a small circle to encircle the loop metal. I'm assuming maybe my car locks in the first partially closed position but can't achieve the second tighter enclosure.
Has anyone pulled the latch apart by drilling out the rivets? I need to figure out how to get the sensor to be triggered so remote central locking works again and the open door light off.
I may push the body in a fraction with a portapower to see if that gets it to line up tighter but don't want to cause more problems, knowing where the sensor is and how it works would help.
Also, the rubber bumpers between the door/hatch and body are often adjustable. If one or more bumpers are extended too far, they may be preventing the hatch from closing far enough to fully latch. Turn the bumper like a screw to shorten or extend it.
Try fully latching (2nd click) the hatch latch with a screwdriver or suitable device while the hatch is open. See if the hatch locks/unlocks as expected while the hatch remains open. This will tell you if your suspicion of the hatch not closing fully is correct. If this is the case, adjust the striker accordingly as stated by @bobski .
Mark
Mark
The problem I have is that the two screws holding down the striker loop just refuse to release and the hatchback lock is positioned to be only in one location. I do have a JIS +3 strikeable impact screwdriver for Honda brake rotors, maybe I'll try wailing on the two screws with that. I was worried about chewing the screw + up and causing more problems. I'd apply heat but the gas tank is right underneath. I also have an induction bolt heater, maybe I'll try that too.
When the hatchback is open and I've fully closed the lock into position 2 fully closed, automatic locking with the key fob works. It always works with unlocking regardless, so it has to be a minor positioning issue with the striker plate and not the lock. Thanks for the input!
When the hatchback is open and I've fully closed the lock into position 2 fully closed, automatic locking with the key fob works. It always works with unlocking regardless, so it has to be a minor positioning issue with the striker plate and not the lock. Thanks for the input!
I'd also throw it out there that after looking at mine, I'd surmise that the adjustment of the top hinges could impede the latch from fully latching; not allowing the hatch to sit "flush" with the back of the car.
Mark
Mark
These cars are pretty vulnerable to taller vehicles , which is most of them where I live.
I can't even begin to count how many times someone in a lifted SUV/truck has tried to merge or turn into the space that my (apparently) invisible Fit occupies in the world. Luckily the Fit is pretty maneuverable and, fittingly for Halloween, I remain undead.
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Aviator902S
2nd Generation (GE 08-13)
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Mar 24, 2010 06:16 PM



