2012 Jazz. Around 20k. Brakes/clutch fluid never been replaced/bled - brownish, but not black (yet).

I'm looking to bleed the brakes with a syringe by sucking the fluid out at the bleeder valves. I'll be using a check valve. Would be great to hear some thoughts on it, and any other helpful tips to keep in mind while doing it.

Re: Clutch bleeding. Is it possible to use a syringe here as well? Is it advisable? If not, I'll have to consider using a log/baseball bat lodged between the driver's seat and the pedal - I don't have another person to help.

Any useful tips and heads up much appreciated.

 

Sounds like the same principal as vacuum bleeding. Instead of a vacuum pump and a fluid collection bottle, you're just using the syringe to directly pull suction?

What do you mean by "check valve"? Speed bleeders?

 

Yes, the syringe will be the vacuum pump and collection bottle.

Check valve will be like the one in .

Can a syringe+check valve work for bleeding the clutch - i.e., without pumping the clutch pedal.
I've heard a lot of people having trouble bleeding the clutch on a Fit/Jazz. I guess because the clutch reservoir is kind of tiny? Doesn't build enough pressure. The standard process seems to be with a partner:
1. Pump the clutch 5 times.
2. Keep it depressed.
3. Open the bleeder valve, let the fluid/air bleed out.
4. Shut the valve.
rinse and repeat.
With no partner, just a syringe, I'm not sure if I can bleed the clutch.

 

The problem with the above method is that every time you take your foot off the brake pedal, the fluid suction between the check valve and MC will pull some air in along the bleeder valve threads. Those bubbles will get expelled with the next pedal stroke, but you're still left with the question of what to do about the final pedal stroke. Speed Bleeders (replacement bleeder screws with a built-in check valve) have the same problem. They try to deal with it by applying thread sealant (paint-on equivalent of PTFE tape), which helps but isn't perfect. I suggest applying PTFE to your bleeder screws. Remove the screws (fluid will dribble out of the hole), apply 3-5 turns of tape (depending on tape thickness) to the threads, reinstall. Keep any excess tape width on the hex/hose barb end of the screw - no tape covering the side holes (which connect to the hose barb) or on the cone-point (which seals the bleeder when you tighten the screw).

 

Thanks bobski.
The tape is a great idea. But will a syringe work? Remember, no pedal pusher is available.
Unless you mean I ditch the syringe, pedal-push, and after 15-20 odd pumps the tape and check valve will do the needful.
I'd still prefer watching the fluid come out the bleeder - helps me see the air bubbles and know when they've stopped completely. Which is why I wanted to use the syringe. Just not sure if the suction syringe will be as effective as pedal pushing the clutch.

This is a reddit post I found on troubles with bleeding a clutch on a Fit/Jazz.

Reddit

 

Vacuum bleeding (includes what you're doing with the syringe) is fine for fluid changes. Check valve + pedal pressing is a step better, because it exercises the master (pedal) cylinder to expel old fluid and possible air. 2nd person operating the bleeder + pedal pressing (press pedal, open valve, close valve, release pedal, press pedal...) is best. The pressure changes and rush of fluid when 2-man pedal-pressing can help dislodge air bubbles. There will be very little pressure change when using a check valve and/or vacuum bleeding.

Considering the tools you already planned to use, start by using the check valve as shown in the video (no syringe). When finishing one of the bleed locations (a brake or clutch cylinder) use the syringe to draw out the last bubbles of air that might have entered through the bleeder screw threads.

 

Thanks bobski. The rush of fluid will certainly help dislodge all air bubbles. That didn't occur to me. You're right, the syringe method will be a slow fluid exchange. Stubborn air bubbles may not get dislodged.

Maybe I can start with the syringe, get the fluid past the check valve, then pump and release a few times, finally come back to the bleeder and use the syringe to finish things off -- for the brakes and clutch.
What I was concerned about was if the syringe would effectively pull the fluid through the lines, past ABS valves, delay valves etc. Also, worried I shouldn't damage any sensors, valves, bellows or the like in the lines that are clearly not made for bearing a suction force from the bleeder end (rather than a pressure force from the pedal end). Or maybe I'm just thinking too much!