Fit wandering on highway + steering wheel not returning to center
Fit wandering on highway + steering wheel not returning to center
Hi everyone,
I’m trying to figure out a steering/handling issue on my 2011 Honda Fit (around 283,000 km / 176,000 miles) and I’m honestly running out of ideas. I’ve already spent a lot of money trying to diagnose and fix this, so I’d really appreciate some opinions before I continue throwing parts at it.
The main symptom is this:
What confuses me is that this issue used to be intermittent for years. Sometimes the car would feel great, sometimes not. Oddly enough, tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve the issue temporarily, which originally made me suspect wheels or tires.
Last summer, I installed a first set of aftermarket struts (cheaper ones), and surprisingly the car drove very well. I even drove around the Gaspé Peninsula for several thousand kilometers with no major issues.
Then in the fall:
At first, the garage suspected the top mounts/strut bearings. They replaced the aftermarket top mounts with OEM Honda top mounts.
Result:
Things that have already been checked:
One mechanic thinks the issue was mostly caused by the top mounts binding.
Another thought maybe slightly stiff steering components.
Nobody has strongly suggested the steering rack yet.
Important detail:
Any ideas or similar experiences would really help.
Thanks.
I’m trying to figure out a steering/handling issue on my 2011 Honda Fit (around 283,000 km / 176,000 miles) and I’m honestly running out of ideas. I’ve already spent a lot of money trying to diagnose and fix this, so I’d really appreciate some opinions before I continue throwing parts at it.
The main symptom is this:
- On the highway, the car constantly wanders left and right.
- I’m always making small steering corrections and counter-corrections.
- The steering does not naturally self-center properly.
- After turning a corner, the steering wheel often stays partially turned instead of smoothly returning to center.
- Sometimes it slowly comes back in small jerky/saccadic movements over several seconds.
- If I make a small steering input (for example around 20–30 degrees), the wheel may barely return at all unless I manually bring it back.
What confuses me is that this issue used to be intermittent for years. Sometimes the car would feel great, sometimes not. Oddly enough, tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve the issue temporarily, which originally made me suspect wheels or tires.
Last summer, I installed a first set of aftermarket struts (cheaper ones), and surprisingly the car drove very well. I even drove around the Gaspé Peninsula for several thousand kilometers with no major issues.
Then in the fall:
- the suspension started making squeaking/squishing noises,
- and I also started noticing more wandering on the highway.
At first, the garage suspected the top mounts/strut bearings. They replaced the aftermarket top mounts with OEM Honda top mounts.
Result:
- steering feels slightly smoother in turns,
- maybe a small improvement overall,
- but the main problem is still there almost entirely.
Things that have already been checked:
- tie rods
- ball joints
- bushings
- steering intermediate shaft / steering joint
- alignment
- multiple road tests by different mechanics
One mechanic thinks the issue was mostly caused by the top mounts binding.
Another thought maybe slightly stiff steering components.
Nobody has strongly suggested the steering rack yet.
Important detail:
- there are NO major clunks when turning,
- no obvious looseness,
- no steering rack leaks,
- no major vibration,
- but the steering return-to-center behavior feels wrong.
- Can aftermarket struts themselves cause poor self-centering and constant micro-corrections?
- Could the struts/springs still be binding even with OEM top mounts?
- Could this still be a subtle steering rack issue even without obvious clunking/play?
- Has anyone experienced a Honda Fit that became extremely sensitive to suspension brand/setup?
Any ideas or similar experiences would really help.
Thanks.
After everything you've checked and replaced.... I'd start thinking about the steering rack.
At first I was going to say tie rods or control arm bushings. Then maybe it was your choice of tire (directional tires can sometimes feel different than others).
But you're saying you've checked those and confirmed everything is fine.
So if you haven't replaced your steering rack yet, maybe look into that. Even without leaking or clunking, a steering rack could still cause some sort of wander or play when under load and at high speed.
Also, how are your wheel bearings? Test those and make sure they're tight without any side-to-side play.
At first I was going to say tie rods or control arm bushings. Then maybe it was your choice of tire (directional tires can sometimes feel different than others).
But you're saying you've checked those and confirmed everything is fine.
So if you haven't replaced your steering rack yet, maybe look into that. Even without leaking or clunking, a steering rack could still cause some sort of wander or play when under load and at high speed.
Also, how are your wheel bearings? Test those and make sure they're tight without any side-to-side play.
Thanks. That’s actually one of the things confusing me the most.
If it was purely the steering rack, I’m having trouble explaining why the issue used to be intermittent for years, and why tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve it temporarily.
Also, last summer I had a different set of aftermarket struts installed (cheaper ones), and the car actually drove very well. I drove several thousand kilometers around the Gaspé Peninsula with almost no highway wandering and no major steering complaints.
The issue became much worse only after the garage replaced those struts with a supposedly higher-quality set last fall. That’s why I keep wondering whether the current struts/suspension setup is somehow amplifying an existing sensitivity or friction in the steering system.
The poor self-centering is what worries me the most. Even after replacing the top mounts with OEM Honda mounts, the wheel still returns very slowly and sometimes barely returns at all after small turns.
As for wheels/bearings, another important detail is that this spring I actually bought a completely different set of wheels because I originally suspected a bent wheel or wheel-related issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new, which makes this even more confusing.
Wheel bearings are still something I should probably have checked more carefully though.
If it was purely the steering rack, I’m having trouble explaining why the issue used to be intermittent for years, and why tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve it temporarily.
Also, last summer I had a different set of aftermarket struts installed (cheaper ones), and the car actually drove very well. I drove several thousand kilometers around the Gaspé Peninsula with almost no highway wandering and no major steering complaints.
The issue became much worse only after the garage replaced those struts with a supposedly higher-quality set last fall. That’s why I keep wondering whether the current struts/suspension setup is somehow amplifying an existing sensitivity or friction in the steering system.
The poor self-centering is what worries me the most. Even after replacing the top mounts with OEM Honda mounts, the wheel still returns very slowly and sometimes barely returns at all after small turns.
As for wheels/bearings, another important detail is that this spring I actually bought a completely different set of wheels because I originally suspected a bent wheel or wheel-related issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new, which makes this even more confusing.
Wheel bearings are still something I should probably have checked more carefully though.
Thanks. That’s actually one of the things confusing me the most.
If it was purely the steering rack, I’m having trouble explaining why the issue used to be intermittent for years, and why tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve it temporarily.
Also, last summer I had a different set of aftermarket struts installed (cheaper ones), and the car actually drove very well. I drove several thousand kilometers around the Gaspé Peninsula with almost no highway wandering and no major steering complaints.
The issue became much worse only after the garage replaced those struts with a supposedly higher-quality set last fall. That’s why I keep wondering whether the current struts/suspension setup is somehow amplifying an existing sensitivity or friction in the steering system.
The poor self-centering is what worries me the most. Even after replacing the top mounts with OEM Honda mounts, the wheel still returns very slowly and sometimes barely returns at all after small turns.
As for wheels/bearings, another important detail is that this spring I actually bought a completely different set of wheels because I originally suspected a bent wheel or wheel-related issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new, which makes this even more confusing.
Wheel bearings are still something I should probably have checked more carefully though.
If it was purely the steering rack, I’m having trouble explaining why the issue used to be intermittent for years, and why tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve it temporarily.
Also, last summer I had a different set of aftermarket struts installed (cheaper ones), and the car actually drove very well. I drove several thousand kilometers around the Gaspé Peninsula with almost no highway wandering and no major steering complaints.
The issue became much worse only after the garage replaced those struts with a supposedly higher-quality set last fall. That’s why I keep wondering whether the current struts/suspension setup is somehow amplifying an existing sensitivity or friction in the steering system.
The poor self-centering is what worries me the most. Even after replacing the top mounts with OEM Honda mounts, the wheel still returns very slowly and sometimes barely returns at all after small turns.
As for wheels/bearings, another important detail is that this spring I actually bought a completely different set of wheels because I originally suspected a bent wheel or wheel-related issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new, which makes this even more confusing.
Wheel bearings are still something I should probably have checked more carefully though.
However, a stiffer strut/spring combination could definitely amplify other issues as you mentioned. So that's not an awful line of thought.
Have you only had one garage/shop look at things for you? A second opinion is definitely warranted, imo. Either from another shop or from a Honda dealer.
But yeah, wheel bearings are easy to check. Watch a Youtube video if you need. But you just have to get one wheel up off the ground to test for each bearing.
Yeah, that's pretty much where my thinking is at right now too.
I don't necessarily think the struts alone created the problem from nothing, because I did have some intermittent wandering/sensitivity issues for years before this. Sometimes the car felt perfectly stable, other times not. Tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve things temporarily, which originally made me suspect wheels or tires.
But the current setup definitely made the problem MUCH more noticeable.
The confusing part is that the previous aftermarket suspension setup actually felt pretty good overall. I drove several thousand kilometers with that setup and highway stability was surprisingly good. The major self-centering issue only became obvious after the garage replaced those struts with the current supposedly higher-quality setup.
The garage originally suspected the aftermarket top mounts/bearings were binding, so they recently replaced them with OEM Honda top mounts. Steering feels slightly smoother now, but the poor self-centering issue is still largely there.
Since then, the steering still feels like it wants to stay slightly left or right instead of naturally returning to center.
And yes, I've actually had multiple shops look at it already:
- tie rods checked
- ball joints checked
- bushings checked
- steering intermediate shaft checked
- alignment checked
None of them found obvious play or a major failure.
Also, I even bought a completely different set of wheels this spring because I originally suspected a bent wheel issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new.
At this point I'm honestly trying to figure out whether:
1) the current suspension setup is binding/amplifying something,
2) there is still some subtle steering rack issue,
or 3) it's a combination of both.
The car has around 160k miles now, so I'm also trying to be realistic about how much money makes sense to invest into further diagnosis or repairs. The car is still reliable overall, but the steering behavior becomes very tiring on longer drives.
I don't necessarily think the struts alone created the problem from nothing, because I did have some intermittent wandering/sensitivity issues for years before this. Sometimes the car felt perfectly stable, other times not. Tire rotations or seasonal tire changes sometimes seemed to improve things temporarily, which originally made me suspect wheels or tires.
But the current setup definitely made the problem MUCH more noticeable.
The confusing part is that the previous aftermarket suspension setup actually felt pretty good overall. I drove several thousand kilometers with that setup and highway stability was surprisingly good. The major self-centering issue only became obvious after the garage replaced those struts with the current supposedly higher-quality setup.
The garage originally suspected the aftermarket top mounts/bearings were binding, so they recently replaced them with OEM Honda top mounts. Steering feels slightly smoother now, but the poor self-centering issue is still largely there.
Since then, the steering still feels like it wants to stay slightly left or right instead of naturally returning to center.
And yes, I've actually had multiple shops look at it already:
- tie rods checked
- ball joints checked
- bushings checked
- steering intermediate shaft checked
- alignment checked
None of them found obvious play or a major failure.
Also, I even bought a completely different set of wheels this spring because I originally suspected a bent wheel issue. So the current wheels are basically brand new.
At this point I'm honestly trying to figure out whether:
1) the current suspension setup is binding/amplifying something,
2) there is still some subtle steering rack issue,
or 3) it's a combination of both.
The car has around 160k miles now, so I'm also trying to be realistic about how much money makes sense to invest into further diagnosis or repairs. The car is still reliable overall, but the steering behavior becomes very tiring on longer drives.
Okay, definitely seems like you're checking the right boxes.
Inspect your wheel bearings still, just to check those off as well. That's probably the last part of the front suspension that you can cover before considering the steering rack itself.
Inspect your wheel bearings still, just to check those off as well. That's probably the last part of the front suspension that you can cover before considering the steering rack itself.
Yeah, that's kind of why I'm leaning away from wheel bearings being the main issue.
The symptoms were present both with my old wheels and with a completely new set of wheels/rims, so that seems to rule out a bent wheel or tire issue pretty strongly.
Also, I don't really have the classic wheel bearing symptoms:
- no humming/growling noise,
- no major vibration,
- no obvious play.
My main symptom is still the poor self-centering. The steering wheel tends to stay slightly turned instead of naturally returning to center, and it often comes back slowly or in a slightly notchy/saccadé way.
That’s what makes me think more about:
- some kind of binding/stiffness in a steering or suspension component,
- or possibly something in the current strut setup amplifying an existing issue.
The strange part is that the issue existed intermittently before, but became much more noticeable after the newer suspension setup was installed.
The symptoms were present both with my old wheels and with a completely new set of wheels/rims, so that seems to rule out a bent wheel or tire issue pretty strongly.
Also, I don't really have the classic wheel bearing symptoms:
- no humming/growling noise,
- no major vibration,
- no obvious play.
My main symptom is still the poor self-centering. The steering wheel tends to stay slightly turned instead of naturally returning to center, and it often comes back slowly or in a slightly notchy/saccadé way.
That’s what makes me think more about:
- some kind of binding/stiffness in a steering or suspension component,
- or possibly something in the current strut setup amplifying an existing issue.
The strange part is that the issue existed intermittently before, but became much more noticeable after the newer suspension setup was installed.
It sounds to me like some suspension bushings are shot. Steering input is making components slide laterally on their bushings instead of properly steering the car. Being chunks of rubber, lifting the car for service is sometimes popping the bushings back into position - that's why you're getting periods of normal driving after service sessions. Have them actually unbolt the front lower arms to inspect the bushings.
Last edited by bobski; Yesterday at 10:35 AM.
It sounds to me like some suspension bushings are shot. Steering input is making components slide laterally on their bushings instead of properly steering the car. Being chunks of rubber, lifting the car for service is sometimes popping the bushings back into position - that's why you're getting periods of normal driving after service sessions. Have them actually unbolt the front lower arms to inspect the bushings.
Also a consideration would be the ball joints. Even if they're not leaking, they can still be shot.
I already took it to a well-rated independent shop in my area and we've checked/replaced quite a few things over the past months:
- sway bar links,
- struts,
- top mounts (recently replaced again with OEM Honda mounts),
- alignment,
- different wheels/tires, etc.
The weird thing is that the issue actually became much more noticeable after installing the higher-quality aftermarket struts last fall. Before that, I had some intermittent wandering at times, but the car was still very driveable and I did thousands of km without major issues.
The shop initially suspected the aftermarket top mounts, which is why we replaced them with OEM Honda mounts recently. It maybe improved things slightly, but the steering still doesn't return to center normally and I still constantly correct left/right on the highway.
As for the Honda dealer near me, I used to go there years ago, but honestly I wasn't very impressed. The work often felt rushed and inconsistent, which makes me hesitant to spend hundreds of dollars there just for diagnosis on a 160k mile car.
At this point I'm trying to figure out whether this is:
- a subtle binding/stiffness issue somewhere in the steering/suspension,
- a steering rack issue,
- or maybe something geometry-related that's being amplified by the stiffer suspension setup.
It sounds to me like some suspension bushings are shot. Steering input is making components slide laterally on their bushings instead of properly steering the car. Being chunks of rubber, lifting the car for service is sometimes popping the bushings back into position - that's why you're getting periods of normal driving after service sessions. Have them actually unbolt the front lower arms to inspect the bushings.
The strange part is that the steering wheel also doesn’t return normally to center anymore and sometimes stays partially turned, which still makes me suspect some kind of binding component as well.
I may ask the garage to inspect the lower control arm bushings more closely instead of only checking for play.
I was thinking bushings as well but he said those were inspected. However, we have no idea how well they were looked over or, as you said, in what orientation/position.
Also a consideration would be the ball joints. Even if they're not leaking, they can still be shot.
Also a consideration would be the ball joints. Even if they're not leaking, they can still be shot.
As for the ball joints, one mechanic told me that if they were binding or rusted internally, they would usually make noise while turning, but I honestly don’t hear any clunking or squeaking at all. The steering just feels resistant and doesn’t self-center properly anymore.
Another interesting detail: about 10 days ago I replaced the aftermarket top mounts with OEM Honda mounts. At first the steering felt slightly smoother, but now the wandering actually seems worse, even at lower city speeds around 50 km/h (30 m/h). It almost feels like the softer OEM mounts are allowing another underlying issue to show itself more clearly.
Sadly no one will care about your X as much as you do. And it doesn’t sound like very many techs that’s looked at your car have actually taken the time to verify x y and z parts are actually to spec, and where they should be in reference to other items.
I’m no suspension whiz, but what you’re describing to me sounds like it HAS to be either rack or geometry related. It sounds like at least there’s been enough eyes and things replaced on the suspension itself that I’d start suspecting the rack more. That said…. Might be worth getting it on a lift and doing a lot of measuring yourself and verifying bushings as well as toe, caster etc. are all in spec, and if they are… well I duno how to diagnose a rack, but process of elimination and all that.
haven’t been under my car enough to have any idea how difficult it would be to remove and replace, but as compact as the car is… probably not fun I’m guessing so I’d say do the above before taking the time and money to change racks.
I’m no suspension whiz, but what you’re describing to me sounds like it HAS to be either rack or geometry related. It sounds like at least there’s been enough eyes and things replaced on the suspension itself that I’d start suspecting the rack more. That said…. Might be worth getting it on a lift and doing a lot of measuring yourself and verifying bushings as well as toe, caster etc. are all in spec, and if they are… well I duno how to diagnose a rack, but process of elimination and all that.
haven’t been under my car enough to have any idea how difficult it would be to remove and replace, but as compact as the car is… probably not fun I’m guessing so I’d say do the above before taking the time and money to change racks.
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CrystalFiveMT
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Apr 2, 2011 06:35 AM



