I ended up using jack point "B". I rolled the car on 2x4s and jacked it up no problem. This was my first tire rotation without using a lift or pnumatic tools. Went super smooth and got it done in about 1/2 hour.

Here's a shot on the stands:


Thanks for everyone's help!

 

I had no problem reaching "B" with my jack this weekend. its a Napa 4.5 Ton.

 

Or you can jack up your car slightly with another jack on the sides before sliding the main jack under the front.
Used to have to do that all the time with lowered cars anyway.

 

Thanks for the info. Just as a tip I used to rotate tires with 2 jack stands and 1 hydraulic jack. I lifted the front from center, put 2 jack stands behind front 2 wheels, then took off FR wheel, used hydraulic jack to lift RR wheel and put original FR wheel under there. Then moved to LF wheel, then LR, and finally back to RF again. Basically I used hydraulic jack to change the rear wheels while the 2 stands keep the front ones up. Spared me from having to get 2 more jack stands.

 

i only do a front to back rotation on my GD so i just lift the front and the rear lifts up with it (endura tech has shorter piston shafts).

 

Is the frame rail that stops right before the gas tank suitable to jack up one side at a time? I want to do a front-to-back tire rotation, and the dedicated jacking points discussed on this thread lift the front or the rear, but not a whole side.

 

badself: I want to say no. What I would do is put the car on jack stands on that one side, or use two jacks.

Just to give some veracity to the claim that you shouldn't use the tow-hook:

 

I've done the same. Is there any disadvantage of jacking up from the rear jack point then front left and the front right?

 

I think that this is the front lifting point on my 2013 Fit (GE8)

Here's another view of what I think is the front lifting point on my 2013 Fit. It looks right -- that's a beefy looking crossmember.