2nd Generation (GE 08-13) 2nd Generation specific talk and questions here.

What did you do to your GE fit today?

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Old May 19, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #901  
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Originally Posted by NoMoreM3
installed PIAA yellow bulbs and Trying to install bi/xeon hid's!!! everything is plugged in fine, just dont know how to hide all the wires.

Also got pro-kit springs installed
Nice! pictures please!
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #902  
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Originally Posted by NoMoreM3
installed PIAA yellow bulbs and Trying to install bi/xeon hid's!!! everything is plugged in fine, just dont know how to hide all the wires.

Also got pro-kit springs installed
do the piaa's need a balast?
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 06:19 PM
  #903  
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Originally Posted by clicq
If I understand you correctly, you just took the scan gauge cable and plugged it into the network port of your laptop (the only port that would fit the scangauge cable probably)?

Based on the pinout for the scan gauge cable (ScanGauge II) and for the network interface on your computer (Ethernet 10/100Base-T ( RJ-45) connector pinout and wiring @ pinouts.ru), you connected ground on the OBD2 port to +TX on the network port, +CAN to -TX, and -CAN to +RX. This may have damaged the port, though the voltage used for ethernet is pretty low (<4V), so you might be OK -- I'd try to disconnect your battery for a few minutes to see if that resets the check engine light, otherwise you might be looking at a trip to the dealer .
It did, thanks...
 
Old May 19, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #904  
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Headed over to GTSPEC today for test fitting. The guys installed a Front Lower Tie Brace, 2 point Mid Chassis Tie Brace and a 6 Point Mid Chassis Brace. You can see install pics on thier front page (under new items) www.gtspec.com . I will be doing a proper write up after a couple of days of driving but I can tell you now that it made a big difference and I am enjoying it .
 
Old May 20, 2010 | 01:20 AM
  #905  
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ya instead of air going around the rad, air it gets forced through it i think ill do the intake tomorrow if i have time and can pick up an air filter. has any1 tried wraping the exhaust or anything like that to reduce engine bay temp? also i plan on making a heat sheild if any1 has ideas on a good material that doesnt pick up too much heat and is easy to work with please let me kno.
 
Old May 20, 2010 | 02:25 AM
  #906  
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Would forcing all the air through the radiator put too much strain on it?
 
Old May 20, 2010 | 02:44 AM
  #907  
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Originally Posted by fitisbamf
i kinda did alot today, haha put small bolts into my wing clips so now i have a tilted wing that looks sick and doesnt hit the roof!

Lol, awesome. Post up some pics. I didn't think anyone else did it!

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...oiler-mod.html
 
Old May 20, 2010 | 03:34 AM
  #908  
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Originally Posted by Lyon[Nightroad]
Lol, awesome. Post up some pics. I didn't think anyone else did it!

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...oiler-mod.html


oh hell ya when i first saw this i knew i was going too ahahah


i saw a while ago that brackets used to tilt it didnt work so i was happy this one did haha


but i dont think it will stress the rad i mean air hits it anyways im just steering it hahah


but another thing that sold me on doing the mod for the rad was the product it self... (i forgot to mention this) but the box had a ssm ge8 on it as an example so i HAD to but it



sorry for the crappy cell pics but enjoy!



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Old May 20, 2010 | 03:37 AM
  #909  
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im also going to try to plug up the holes in the peice that sits on the grill since im going to be changing my intake ill see if it will make more air go through the rad.
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 12:31 AM
  #910  
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Went through 1 & 1/2 cans of this stuff the past two days...

 
Old May 21, 2010 | 12:41 AM
  #911  
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Originally Posted by fitisbamf
ya instead of air going around the rad, air it gets forced through it i think ill do the intake tomorrow if i have time and can pick up an air filter. has any1 tried wraping the exhaust or anything like that to reduce engine bay temp? also i plan on making a heat sheild if any1 has ideas on a good material that doesnt pick up too much heat and is easy to work with please let me kno.
I put a very heavily wrapped header on mine but haven't driven it yet. ...I won't be able to tell what part of any heat reduction I can attribute to it because I will have an inter cooler on it and insulated intake and boost pipe on it too and I will be measuring the temperature at the IAT sensor.
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 12:45 AM
  #912  
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Originally Posted by baylorbro
Went through 1 & 1/2 cans of this stuff the past two days...

I'll bet you are getting good with that stuff by now...... Got paint???
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 12:53 AM
  #913  
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Yeah, and it burns like hell when it gets on your skin. I have white paint, but I'm contemplating getting pearl if I can find it.
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 01:07 AM
  #914  
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I like the idea of pearl white, go for it....
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 02:15 PM
  #915  
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Made another trip to GTSPEC for more test fitting. This time a rear sway bar. I will have a review up once they list it on thier sight but I can tell you this thing is a real nice piece. It is a must have!
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 02:32 PM
  #916  
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Originally Posted by wiona
Made another trip to GTSPEC for more test fitting. This time a rear sway bar. I will have a review up once they list it on thier sight but I can tell you this thing is a real nice piece. It is a must have!
You think a RSB is necessary if lowered? Especially since the GE's come with one stock?
 
Old May 21, 2010 | 10:11 PM
  #917  
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Originally Posted by baylorbro
You think a RSB is necessary if lowered? Especially since the GE's come with one stock?
It is a very good compliment to the stock bar since the Fit still comes stock understeer and has body roll even after lowered. Lowering does help a little more so with coilovers but it does not fix it totally. A RSB helps with both issues and you do not have to track the car to feel the difference. It is an inexpensive solution compaired to Coilovers. Do a search on this board and you will see how much this subject has been covered. A lot of good info from very good sources.
 
Old May 22, 2010 | 08:42 AM
  #918  
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Originally Posted by wiona
It is a very good compliment to the stock bar since the Fit still comes stock understeer and has body roll even after lowered. Lowering does help a little more so with coilovers but it does not fix it totally. A RSB helps with both issues and you do not have to track the car to feel the difference. It is an inexpensive solution compaired to Coilovers. Do a search on this board and you will see how much this subject has been covered. A lot of good info from very good sources.
Stock under steer, hmm - I'm new here, but what I could be sure of feeling as I edge the little beast on is a classic over steer car. Back end 'feels like' it really wants to come around in hard cornering. Sport-no nav. Been searching any pointers??? K_C_
 
Old May 22, 2010 | 09:10 AM
  #919  
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It also depends on the conditions. Road conditions, tires and your driving play a big role on the handling and what you are feeling or think you're feeling (you already knew that ). You can get an oversteer under quick deceleration. The goal is to be able to have a predictable setup. It needs to be consistant which goes hand in hand with predictable. I'm no expert but maybe this exert from wikipedia may help explain my earlier post.

"Any vehicle may understeer or oversteer at different times based on road conditions, speed, available traction, and driver input. Limit handling is the regime of vehicle performance where the tire(s) are approaching the limits of their grip. While not often used on public roads by most drivers, it is the usual state for a racing car except when traveling at high speeds in a straight line. As cornering loads increase further the vehicle will tend to go into a particular "terminal" condition. "Terminal understeer" refers to a vehicle which, as a function of its design, tends to understeer when cornering loads exceed tire traction.
Terminal handling balance is a function of front/rear relative roll resistance (suspension stiffness), front/rear weight distribution, and front/rear tire traction. A front-heavy vehicle with low rear roll stiffness (from soft springing and/or undersized or nonexistent rear anti-roll bars) will have a tendency to terminal understeer: its front tires, being more heavily loaded even in the static condition, will reach the limits of their adhesion before the rear tires, and thus will develop larger slip angles. Front-wheel drive cars are also prone to understeer because not only are they usually front-heavy, the transmitting of power through the front wheels also reduces the grip available for cornering. This often leads to a "shuddering" action in the front wheels which can be felt in the car as traction quickly shifts between being used for turning and motor torque. This is why rear wheel drive cars tend to handle better as the rear wheels' main job is to handle the motor's torque and the front wheels' job is to steer.
Although understeer and oversteer can each cause a loss of control, many automakers design their vehicles for terminal understeer due to the experience that it is easier for the average driver to control than terminal oversteer. Unlike terminal oversteer, which often requires several steering corrections, understeer can often be reduced simply by reducing speed. A slight danger in some cars which traditionally understeer is actually sudden oversteer: for example if a car is moving fast and understeering, the driver will be tempted to take his foot off the accelerator (increasing the steering effectiveness of the front wheels as there is no engine torque to deal with) which can cause the car to snap oversteer and spin, with very little warning. Not many current production cars react like this, as it is not a desirable characteristic.
Understeer is not just present during acceleration through a corner, it can also be found during heavy braking. If the brake balance (the strength of the brakes in terms of the front and rear wheels) is too heavy at the front this can cause understeer. This is caused by the front wheels locking and losing any effective steering. The opposite is true if the brake balance is too strong towards the rear wheels causing the rear end to spin out (like a child skidding on a bicycle). In ordinary road cars a safe brake balance (tending towards slight understeer) must be found."

Yes the the Fit comes stock with a RSB but it still is setup towards Understeer. It does need a little help IMHO and it is noticed after an additional RSB. You have to be careful not to go too big and go beyond the help. You will end up on the opposite end of the spectrum.

Most individuals that install a RSB notice a difference immediatly and swear by them. I'm sure there is a ton more info out there.
 

Last edited by wiona; May 22, 2010 at 09:32 AM. Reason: added rest of exert from wiki
Old May 22, 2010 | 11:25 AM
  #920  
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Thank you Wiona - most insight thus far. Here's my situation.

Uphill - progressive [tightening] turn - slightly banked left hand ramp. 3rd gear going into it and holding speed [not excessive but strong] - handles very positive [sold] - as I'm 2/3 thru I get the sensation that the rear end wants to come out - slight lift on the accelerator and it holds on like glue - ramp crests into a right hander and breaks over to a slight downhill. Zippity do into a down hill lefty ending with a slight right/up and into the flow.

At no time within all this do I feel any handling issue other than the over steer sensation which was easiest to hang onto with a slight ease off. Being a power curve makes that part sweet.

All was tight - no complaints - would be nice to be able to over power a bit but I haven't reach into those cams under those conditions yet.
K_C_
 



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