not sure what yours looks like, but check this image below and see how the washers are placed. i know when i first received my SPC bolts it didn't make sense to me until i looked at the illustration carefully.

 

IS this question for me?
I will be installing springs and bolts at the same time.

 

YEa.. I think they all look the same..
Everything looks fine except that the bolt would not move any further from that position as it is shown in the pic.
The bolt shape is circle from one side and oval shape from the another.
So the nut does not go through the oval side.
Maybe i should use some tools to move it.

 

not sure wat you mean, but remember that the nut is a semi-locking type so that it doesn't loosen easily once you have your camber setup. i recommend you not thread the nut until you are ready to do the strut/spring swap or alignment.

also that little notch you see in that pict goes into the screw hole on your strut. you make adjustments by positioning that large tab towards or away from the car (towards means negative), and then by turning the bolt to get the camber you want. at the very end, tighten the nut.

i dont know if that makes it any clearer, but once you have that installed it would make sense.

 

if you could see the oval side you would understand that the bolt wont pass through the nut as there is less space for it.
i think i got a piece from a bad lot.

both the nuts are the same.
nuts making me nuts !!!!

 

I put SPC camber bolts in my GE8 and they look just like your picture above. It will be too tight to put on by hand. With a wrench it goes on fine. It is like that so it won't go out of alignment while driving. The shop who put them on didn't say they were messed up so I'm sure they are correct. You've got nothing to worry about.

 

ohh. thanks alot buddy, i thought i would be requiring a new set of bolts
where did u install the bolts ? lower bolt or the upper bolt ? and how much camber did u achieve ?
Again thanks alot !!

 

Just received my bolts yesterday and I see what you're talking about how the bolt doesn't thread easily by hand. Yes what everyone above said, they are semi-locking and will need to be tightened with a wrench, but will thread with some force.

Excited to install.

For those that DIY'd did you adjust and tighten the bolts down with the car on the ground? I obviously don't have an alignment rack in my garage so idk how much of a pain in the ass it is to access and torque the bolts with wheels on the ground?

 

I put them in the upper bolt hole, as the SPC instructions said to do. You could put them in the bottom but you wont be able to get as much camber and it will probably slip out of alignment. I got 1.7* of camber.
I put them in myself by jacking the car up on the center front point so both front wheels would be off the ground. I put both in and adjusted with the wheels off so I could go back and forth to each side of the car to make sure they were even. I drove around for a month without a proper alignment because no one would do it for me. My Honda dealer wouldn't do it since it was aftermarket and Merlin's wouldn't do it because I was lowered, etc. In about the 2-3k miles I drove unaligned I used about 40% of my front tires tread . I was finally able to get it done by a tuner shop an hour away. Turns out I had some pretty crazy toe out that was murdering my tires. So my advice would be to have an alignment appointment set up before you DIY so you don't wreck your tires like me.

 

Interesting about the toe out. I suppose if you change camber and add the caster of the front suspension your toe will go out naturally. I didn't align after installing springs and my toe was ok ish but I didn't mess with camber at all.

I was planning on installing them soon and aligning later but I think i'll just install them the day before my alignment appointment. Thanks.

 

I installed a set of the SPC camber bolts yesterday. If you install them exactly like the illustrations in the instructions show it looked to me that they end up at pretty much 0 degrees of camber to start with. I just tightened them down that way until I can get an alignment. I did play with rotating them and it looked to me that dialing in negative camber results in a lot of toe in, so I could see how the toe would be way out of alignment if you adjusted the camber and didn't fix the toe.

I'm excited to see how much of a difference the camber makes......going to tell the shop to dial it in to around -1.5 degrees with 0 toe.

-Dustin

 

I was finally able to get an alignment this week. The guys at the shop gave me a "doom and gloom" speach about how dialing in camber would wear out my tires quick. I wanted to get them to dial in -1.5 degrees on each side, but let them talk me down to about -1 degree. They ended up at -1.1 degrees on each side and 0 toe (factory toe spec). I did a little research afterwards and everything I've read, including the posts here, suggest that anything less than about 3 degrees is fine and won't cause excessive tire wear as long as the toe-in is set to 0.
Even at only -1.1 degrees I can definitely tell a difference. I'm able to corner a little harder and more abrubtly and the "rolling over" feeling that I was getting with 205/50/R16 tires on the narrow stock rims has been alleviated some. It doesn't seem any more twitchy on the highway than it was before, so that's a plus. The next time we get some rain I plan to push it a little and see how much of the understeer has been taken away. It's hard to tell in the dry because you have to push the car so hard to get the tires to break loose. All in all I would say this is a great bang for the buck mod! It seems to do a good job of enhancing the effect of the Progress rear sway bar I installed also.

-Dustin