Rear door panel - 5.25 lbs (10.5 lbs for both rear panels)


stock battery & cover - 22.5 lbs


Spare tire - 21.55 lbs


Rear seat (short section), less bolts and belts - 28.69 lbs


Rear seat (large section), less bolts and belts - 38.55 lbs

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Props to Tork for providing verified weight/pics.



2009 base model.........................2489.00 lbs (Honda quoted)
- Rear seat................................ - 67.24 lbs
- Jack/wrench............................. - 4.55 lbs
- Spare tire............................... - 21.55 lbs
- Steel wheels/dunlops (33.2 lbs). - 132.80 lbs (x4)
- Stock springs.............................- 16.6 lbs
- Stock battery.............................- 22.5 lbs
- Rear seat belt..............................-4.75 lbs
- Rear wiper/motor..........................-3.18 lbs
- Rear door panels..........................-10.5 lbs
- stock air box...............................-5.00 lbs
- stock axle back exhaust...............-11.0 lbs
----------------------------------------------
Weight reduction (gross)...............-299.67 lbs

+ Odyssey PC680 ........................+ 14.45 lbs
+ Enkei RPF1/Toyo Proxes4............+ 98.80 lbs
+ progress springs .......................+ 21.00 lbs
+ PRM SRI...................................+1.8 lbs
----------------------------------------------
Weight reduction (net).................-160 lbs







So I put this fat chick up on the scales....



My next upgrade should get me just under 2200....


I'm also hoping to swap OEM battery for lightweight battery...and eventually either carbon fiber hood or cut out metal braces in the OEM hood.

Anybody under 2200 lbs yet?

 

Wouldn't cut out the bracing it's the only thing keeping the skin from crumpling up like apiece of tinfoil
You can ask Cat:x about her new CF hood and the dif in weight.

So ur want'n to go faster? try an Electronic Throttle Controller! from Panson Pan here @ FF that will really take the lag out. sp7

 

Are you referring to crumpling as in an accident? I'm guessing the hood plays an insignificant role in impact absorption and force distribution (this is job of the bumper and frame). Or are you implying that the hood will wrinkle like a piece of tin foil merely from cruising down the highway? LOL. Either way, removing the supportive braces should not be dramatically different from a fiberglass or CF hood in terms of load bearing strength...which is fine because nobody is gonna be jumping on my hood

Thanks for the info on the electronic throttle controller. I will definitely look into that...

 

The controller wont necessarily make your car faster, it will just apply more throttle than what you really do. So if apply 30% throttle, it will aply 50% or so, just an example. So it will make your car feel faster, but at full throttle it will be the same.

Props for all that weight loss. More power will make a car accelerate faster. Less weight will make it accelerate faster, handle better, brake better. and get better fuel economy. Keep it up!

May I suggest a PRM intake. Its a very small piece, that should shave off a couple more pounds as well as adding some more hp.

 

Remove stock radio?

 

Interesting, where would I go about weighing my fit? I've removed back seats and belts, spare and jack, etc. Added lightweight wheels, not going to add all my secrets.

 

The only problem I see is that most of the weight loss is in the rear, so you are making the front-rear weight distribution worse. Not that great for handling, but if you don't particularly care about it, then I guess it is fine.

 

Why not? I'll tell you anything you wanna know about my car...it's not like our pink slips are on the line.

You can weigh your car at a gas station that caters to truckers. I used a big rig scale. These have to be accurate b/c the driver's a$$ is on the line if they get popped for being over weight.

The one I used is at the edge of a hill and, because my car is so light, there was some variation in the weight from gusts of wind. The guy "snapped" the weight b/w flickers of the scale. I am gonna go back on a less windy day. It was $6 bucks BTW.

After looking into it (searched the forum), this doesn't really seem like a performance mod...My foot and ankle work just fine for controlling throttle input It would, however, be a decent way to "lock out" aggressive driving or force you to drive more economically. This seems like a "sticky accelerator" (a la Toyota) waiting to happen...yikes.

Definitely been looking at bolt ons...and the PRM intake is on a short list of dyno proven mods. My only hesitation (besides price ) is the initial drop in torque and HP at lower RPMs.

Hmmm...not quite ready to give up radio, A/C, or airbags yet.

I'm getting really good acceleration in 2nd and 3rd gear now from the weight reducton...BUT, 1st gear is still weak sauce. The gear is too tall...it needs to be shortened to boost off the line performance and allow you to remain in higher RPMs when shifting into second. My fear is that adding a CAI will exacerbate the anemic 1st gear.

I've been looking at MFactory's offerings....a higher final gear would be great except that the GE Fit final drive is 4.62 (compared to the GD's 4.29) and MFactory only offers 4.687. Not worth cracking open the tranny for. They don't offer a 1st gear replacement.

The Honda fit hood is tiny and I'm not sure that a CF replacement would be worth the cost/weight ratio.

My next steps as posted above will be lightweight battery (-9 lbs), seats (guessing b/w 30-60 lbs reduction ????), and prolly will end up biting the bullet on a CF hood anyways (-10 lbs ??)

After that its gonna be tough....

 

Incorrect. The majority of the weight loss has been unsprung weight (~40 lbs from wheels and tires...10 lbs at each corner) and from the middle of the car (a neutral point) with rear seat removal. The spare tire and jack probably weigh a combined 30 lbs. I will shed more than that from the cockpit when I remove the stock seats.

Regardless, you want a FWD car to be lighter in the rear...this will allow the rear of the car to get loose in corners and reduce understeer.

 

Honestly the Fit hood is tiny and already lightweight. I highly doubt you will see more than a 3 lb weight reduction. And for the price I don't think it is worth it.

 

Ummm . . . no.

 

Care to elaborate?

 

10lbs per corner, you sure about that? I know my RE30s feel about 5lbs lighter than the stockers per wheel, but the 205/50 tires are heavier than the 185/55 stockers. I figured total about 2.5lbs per wheel lost, but I could be way off. 10lbs per corner though, damn that is like a super super lightweight wheel (needing to be around 8lbs) and tire combo and the RPF1s (looks like what you have) are not really lighter than the RE30s.

Don't expect that much loss from the front seats, believe it or not, but the stock front seats are not very heavy (unfortunately). I think combined with the Bride carbon ZetaIIIs I lost maybe 25lbs and that might be stretching it or my guesstimator needs to be fine tuned . Granted you will lose a little more if your seats have the side airbags. That is also with non-sliding rails which are lighter than sliding rails.

The carbon bonnet I'm looking at in a carbon/FRP construction is just under 6lbs lighter than stock. If I could find or get the company to make a one-off dry carbon, it should shave another 3lbs. The stock hood weighs about 13.6lbs.

Is the FD stateside a 4.6? I know the automatics have a 4.56 for the FD, but the manual is a 4.294 as J's just released a 4.625 for the GE. At least it is this way in Japan and if anything I would imagine the manuals having an even lower FD stateside like most previous Hondas compared to Japan due to the openness of the roads and higher FE numbers for sales.

I should go get my Fit weighed if I could find somewhere here that does it. Stock they are listed at 1050kg (2310lbs) and with the rear seats (55~60), wheels (10lbs total), intake (2~3lbs) and front seat replacement (25lbs), I figured I probably lost about 45kg or just under 100lbs. And maybe added back about 10lbs with the under braces, floor bar and c-pillar bar.

 

cool thread mang! I am impressed! I have been wanting to weigh mine, although my Sport model is disadvantaged
Yeah I am pretty much into the same thing.
Going to 15's yeah you probably got 10lbs per corner.
I got 7, but stuck with 16's
I would not cut the hood braces, nothing to do with crash, just think it will make it too flimsy.

Minnesota huh? Well too light of a battery will kick you in the ass in the winter.
I am 3 blocks from WI, go to MN often, snowmobile in the WI Northwoods and MI UP. I can tell you the Oddessy 680 non metal jacket works in winter pictured below.
I think the carbon fiber hood could save 8 lbs myself ($50 per lb)
My battery around $115 (10 lbs savings so $12 per lb)
Coleman Racing could make aluminum hat rotors to stock size (probably $50 +per lb saved)
Aluminum rear brake drums are possible (from the original Insight) but I think shoe change is needed, maybe more.
That is about it, it gets difficult after a while
Oh, little front, and the rear wiper and motor, pulleys etc like in my thread here
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ngs-maybe.html

 

Feel lighter? LOL...weigh them. Put up some numbers... I researched (and called the manufacturer when specs were not available) extensively before purchasing. I know EXACTLY (small manufacturing variances aside) what my wheel and tire package weighs.

Enkei RPF-1 15x7 = 9.5 lbs (tirerack, wheel database, Enkei's site, etc)
Toyo Proxes 4 195/50/15 = 16.5 lbs (this is from Toyo's website)
-----------------------------------
Disregarding adhesive balancing weights, total = 26 lbs.

The fit sport alloy wheels have been weighed...there is a pic floating around. (I didn't bookmark the thread) but the most commonly quoted figure is 34-36 lbs with tire. The steelies weigh significantly more. I have not had a chance to weigh my steelies+dunlops yet...I will update as soon as I can find a reliable scale (bathroom "spring" scales are inaccurate at the extremes of the scale).

The RE30 has lots spokes (i.e. weight)...they look great, but are clearly not the lightest wheel offered by Volk. The TE37 is essentially equivalent to the RPF-1 (9.3 lbs at 15x7). The only wheels I could find that were significantly lighter than the 15x7 RPF-1 were the SSR Type C in 15x6. I could have saved another 10 oz with General exclaim UHP....but these are on back order across the country. I did not even consider 14" wheels, because finding tires would have been much more difficult.

I'm sorry if I'm being inflammatory but you do alot of "thinking" and "feeling" when it comes to weight reduction. This informaiton is easily obtained if one is so inclined. I am confident that when I make my purchasing decision (front seats, hood, etc.) I will know with a high degree of certainty (i.e. within ounces) how much weight I will save.

Can you post a link or provide a pic showing the weight of the OEM hood?

You don't have to "imagine." The USDM FD is 4.62 to be exact. See link below.

Do it and post up your numbers...we'll see who the biggest loser is.

The USDM Honda Fit base weighs approximately 2490 lbs.
2010 Honda Fit - Specifications - Official Honda Web site

 

....Nice.

 

Great stuff. Thanks for the info.

Are you going to be getting involved in any SCCA Land O' Lake events this year? I'm gonna try to hit as many autocross events as I can. We should try to meet up at one of the local tracks...

...maybe hit up a 1/4 mile? Let me know...I'm down like Leroy Brown.

 

So I just looked on Honda's site about the Fit's gearing and this is what they list for the US market Fit.

1st - 3.308
2nd - 1.870
3rd - 1.303
4th - .949
5th - .727
FD - 4.62

The Japanese model has
1st - 3.461
2nd - 1.869
3rd - 1.303
4th - 1.054
5th - .853
FD - 4.294

Using a gear calculator with 205/50 tires on 16" wheels the following is the theoretical top speed of each gear at 6500rpms.

US -------- Japan
(4.62) ---- (4.294)
30.46 ----- 31.32
53.91 ----- 58
77.32 ----- 83.19
106.17 ---- 102.85
138.58 ---- 127.08

Same chart using the Final Drive swapped between the 2

(4.294) -(4.62)
32.77 -- 29.11
58 ----- 53.91
83 ----- 77.32
114.23 - 95.59
149.11 - 118.11

Interesting as I was thinking of going to the 4.6 for quicker acceleration off the line and out of the corners even with the loss of top speed unless I push the rev limit out to 7000 then the speeds are on par with the 6500 revs. I know the J's pushes the revlimit up to 7300.

I may have to actually weigh my stock wheel/tire combo to the RE30/tire combo. Maybe I am seriously undercutting the weight by saying 2.5/corner.

 

When you remove the spare tire, what do you do to keep the cardboard from snapping in half when you put your groceries on it?

 

Just read your post, was typing out that crap above. The weight for the stock hood I got off of J's website. They list it at 6.2kg (13.64lbs) and the carbon/frp hood is listed as 3.5kg (7.7lbs). It definitely is not very heavy since there is not much there. Your hood should be slightly heavier since it is longer in length compared to the JDM hood.