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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #1  
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Electrical help

OK, I'm trying something here. I want to replace the stock hazard light with another type of push button. But I know squat about electrical. So these are the specs for the switch:

Specs:
  • LED is rated for 3 / 5 / 12v Input. Higher voltages are not tolerated
  • Terminations: /28 (2.8mm tabs)
  • Switching: S.P. Push to make, tactile S.P. / Latched Switch
  • Max. Rating: 50mA, 24V d.c. switch
  • Contact Resistance: <100m§Ù
  • Insulation Resistance: >103 M§Ù
  • Dielectric Strength: Contact to Panel >2.0kV
  • Contact to Contact 1500V Contact
So from what I can tell the LED will do just fine with the 12V supplied from the car. I was thinking of adding a fuse just to keep it safe for the LED. But I'm not sure about the switch, will the switch get killed because of the amps? I just don't know so I'm reaching out to someone with experience.
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by B-Blue
OK, I'm trying something here. I want to replace the stock hazard light with another type of push button. But I know squat about electrical. So these are the specs for the switch:

Specs:
  • LED is rated for 3 / 5 / 12v Input. Higher voltages are not tolerated
  • Terminations: /28 (2.8mm tabs)
  • Switching: S.P. Push to make, tactile S.P. / Latched Switch
  • Max. Rating: 50mA, 24V d.c. switch
  • Contact Resistance: <100m§Ù
  • Insulation Resistance: >103 M§Ù
  • Dielectric Strength: Contact to Panel >2.0kV
  • Contact to Contact 1500V Contact
So from what I can tell the LED will do just fine with the 12V supplied from the car. I was thinking of adding a fuse just to keep it safe for the LED. But I'm not sure about the switch, will the switch get killed because of the amps? I just don't know so I'm reaching out to someone with experience.
Assuming these are the specs for the replacement switch, the problem is we don't know the specs/requirements for the existing emergency flasher switch. There are also the physical characteristics of the switches we know nothing about: how many poles, does it latch on, etc...

but... 50mA at 24V is 100mA at 12V. This is not a very robust switch (1amp is 1000mA). Your car will run at 14+ volts with the engine running (could be a problem). Just for comparison, the dome light is probably 1amp @12V (12watts). What is the switch made for? Desktop?
 

Last edited by Steve244; Oct 4, 2011 at 11:17 AM.
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:40 PM
  #3  
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yeah, it's for a desktop pc. I would think a resister might work to bring it down to 12v? But then will the turn signal lights get affected?
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by B-Blue
yeah, it's for a desktop pc. I would think a resister might work to bring it down to 12v? But then will the turn signal lights get affected?
Even if it fits, this switch is not appropriate for automotive use. Sorry.
 
Old Oct 4, 2011 | 01:00 PM
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Yeah, well thanks for the help. JDM switch it is then.
 
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