So I took my car to get fenders rolled today and they couldn't get 3 wheels off.... Reason: most of the studs either spun or one didn't even budge and ended up guy breaking the stud.

2 weeks ago I got my wheels(16x8+26)and tire installed at tire shop and used open ended muteki lugs. Do you think tire shop did something wrong or it's on my end for some reason?? I didn't install extended wheel studs because it looked like it had enough clearance.

Pretty bummed out.... One wheel the lugs came off like it was supposed to. Other three... Not so well

How will I remove these lugs off the stud?? Will I have to have the tire shop break them off?? I'll ask them to use impact wrench first but I'm wondering why this even happened so I can avoid future problems

Lugs pitch is for fit. 12x1.5. So that's not issue

 

The tire shop probably use an impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts. They should repair them at no expense to you. That wouldn't have happened if they had torqued them as
recommended.

Clifton

 

I could be off base and completely wrong here, but I just decided to mount some new wheels I've had for awhile, and I had to special order lug nuts recommended for the wheels.

During my research I found a lot of "tuner" style lug manufacturers advise against using an impact wrench. It can damage not only the lug nuts, but in some instances -- such as with my wheels -- using an impact wrench can damage the actual wheel itself. (Both wheel and lug nut manufacturers specifically said NOT to allow installers to use an impact wrench... do it manually... and use a torque wrench to tighten, if possible)

If this was the case in your instance, and they torqued them too much on top of it all... well, that could be your problem.

I hope for your sake none of the above applies. I would check into everything I've mentioned if I were you. The people installing them could have been your typical could-care-less, just-get-it-done dummies.

Sorry to hear of your problem... good luck, bro!

 

I suggest:
Try introducing penetrating oil into the threads. Then
My first choice is grinding the nuts on two opposite sides of the nuts so you can knock them off with a chisel. The nuts are wasted but I think they are wrong anyway. See later comments.
I had other ways to remove the lugbolts but they don't do any better and won't save the lugbolts. You must replace ALL of the lugbolts, i.e. the studs, with new ones 12x1.5 lugs simplyy because once damaged the threads are worthless even if they appear OK. Replacement studs cost about a dollar or two so the cost is minimal. The sdtuds must be replaced anyway so any damage to them isn't important.
And unless you supplied the lugnuts the tire shop is at fault if the threads are not 12x1.5; check by counting the threads per inch or mm. 1.5 threads are 1.5mm per 'groove', or .060" per groove. if you can count the number of grooves (pitch) in say 6 mm or 1/4" and you should get 4 "grooves'. If you get 5 grooves the pitch ids 1.25 threads. (OK , actually 4.8 grooves). And it could be the power driver had so much power that once the nuts were fully seated they were spun in the hub, not exactly unknown either. Either way the tire shop is at fault. It wiouldn't be the first time a power wrench was set at 200 lb-ft to install nuts at 85 lb-ft.
BTW, IF YOU DIDN'T HAVE 8 THREADS ENGAGED IN THE NUTS YOU ARE TAKING A CHANCE ON THE LUGNUTS STRIPPING OFF, A DANGEROUS SITUATION. tHE LESS, THE GREATER CHANCE YO TOOK. MAYBE PROVIDENCE WAS LOOKING OUT FOR YOU.

You can try chiseling the nuts from the end or drilling or using a pencil grinder bit but don't worry about the studs being damaged, thety are throwaways now anyway.
If the nut is into the wheel so far that they cannot be reached with a grinder but the stud can be, you can grind a slot in the end of the stud to use as a lot for a screwdriver to hold the stud while the nut is 'unscrewed'. If that doesn't work spin the studs so that hub bore for the studs is ground out enough that you can pull the wheel with studs out of the hub. Yes, that means new hubs or rebored to bigger base stud bolts. No, not real cheap, either

I suspect the lugnuts are not 12x1.5 but 12x1.25 and thus using typical power nut drivers they seized ( which is why you lightly lube the studs with hi temp gease and then finger tighten lugnuts and torque with a hand wrench) because the 12x1.25 easily overide the 1.5 thread pitch when power driven. If that is the case the tire shop is at fault unless you supplied the nuts. Even then they could have checked them before installing so they have some responsibility.

Sorry to offer such strenous solutions but its all I can offer based on our successfully removing seized stud nuts.
Good luck.

 

Thanks for replies. Yeah i was surprised not one but most of the studs on three wheels didn't come off and one broke off......
Hope the tire shop takes responsibility...

 

They are 100% 12x1.5. Its even stamped on the nuts itself. And i did provide the lugnuts brand new to them in a box.
Thanks for the help! i will use that method after i contact the tire shop and see what they will do about it.

 

I busted a lug bolt because I cross threaded a crappy eBay lug a while ago. Unfortunately, replacing the bolts are not as easy as just pounding the old one out and pressing a new one in on the Fit. You have to year the entire hub apart and replace SE other seal that is in the hub. Just make sure that it is fixed correctly. I ended up w muteki lugs this time and haven't had an issue, but I've also been MUCH more careful when installing and torquing them down. Good luck!

 

More than once we have found lugnuts mismarked.
So check them.
More than likely though I believe the tire shop overtightened the nuts by overpowering them with a high power wrench, thus seizing them.
And next time require the nuts be tightened with a torque wrench, not a pneumatic nut driver.
Also hate to tell you too but watcvh out for 'warped' didsc brake rotors. Its not uncommon for rotors to be warped by overtightening lugnuts.
Sorry.
Good luck, we've been there and put up with that.

 

Update:

Ok so i got off work early today to see if i can remove the lug. Didn't work even with impact wrench, the spinning stud caused the threads to strip.

Thought we had to cut the lug nuts off (chance of damaging wheel) but for one last chance we removed the center cap off and see if we could take the hub bolt off.
After few mins we got the cap off surprisingly and took the whole hub off. From there we removed the head of the stud and wala the wheel came off with the broken studs and lugs.

So now all we have to do is replace the wheel hub and its good to go. Around ~200$ for a new one at Honda but i will be getting aftermarket one.

For the front wheel with the nuts not coming off. Ended up breaking all the studs off and replacing the studs only. Dealer they are 5$ but you can buy any of those at any auto store for the EXACT same thing for 1$.

So all in all, i learned my lesson and to notify the mechanic installing the tire to always use torque wrench. Around 300$ of damage which could have been avoided if i paid attention more.

Oh and the tire shop that did installed it wrong, no surprise they didn't want to take responsibility..... Said they torqued it down to OEM specs and there impact guns stops at certain torque....blah blah blah bunch of bullcrap which i didn't want to deal with.

not going to list tire shop name.. but if you want to know its in Socal. i'll pm you if you want to know

 

How did you remove the head of the stud? We thought about doing that but decided cutting/chiseling off the nuts was preferable. Did you just bash the hub ? How did you cut the studs, a torch?
And how did you break the lug bolts off ? The nut was tight enough to prevent much wiggle room. There's always room to learn better solutions..

As far as the tire shop well wonder if they had the impact drivers set at 200 lb ft instead of 80? Just because the impacx wrenches have limit settings on torque doesn't mean they were set correctly.
Cheers. and congrats.
BTW a salvage yard would be a good source for that hub. There used to be severakl in the SD area.

 

So after a shop cross threaded the nuts on my one wheel I took em off and three broke. To get the studs off from the hub drive em back part way, cut the head off with a hack saw then drive em out. Next grind a small depressed area on the knuckle housing near the top front where you have space and can see. Then you'll need to grind a small edge on the head of the stud making a flat spot. This will alow you to slip it in via the depressed area with the flat spot and be able to draw it in with your lug nut. Only needed to take off my caliper and rotor. No press needed, no bearing, tierod ends, no reallignment. Good luck!