2011 Honda Fit Sport Dyno 121 WHP
Yea... a Dyna pack at the hub is going to be dependent on the correction factor and the gear used FOR SURE... OR even could be that this is the calculated "at crank" number.... THAT I would believe no prob
I disregarded most of this at "I didn't dyno the car before but I saw x on Youtube"
Sorry OP, no offense intended. I do appreciate your efforts and hope you've found something, but remain skeptical about how much of that something you've found.
What is up with people here? Another members takes the time to get his car dynoed where he lives, where he can afford it and posts his results, and some people bust his balls?
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.
What is up with people here? Another members takes the time to get his car dynoed where he lives, where he can afford it and posts his results, and some people bust his balls?
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.
From the description provided by V-Force,
This V-Force is a Piggy Back system.
It had a pre set programmed parameter that allow the engine to work in the "performance parameter from V-Force" instead of the "economy parameter from Honda".
This is almost similar as HonData,
the different is HonData offered "end user adjustibility",
while the adjusted parameter with V-Force is "fixed by the V-Force engineer".
so if everything is as described,
I would not be surprised if V-Force is making power gain
(or actually making power loss if their adjusted parameter don't suit the car)...
Of course without the Before and After Dyno on the same day and same dyno,
we can not say for sure whether this V-Force is making power gain (or power loss).
but in theory, this V-Force could well actually should make some power gain,
especially if combined with better intake flow and less restrictive exhaust system.
since the before dyno were not done,
the easiest way to prove this is to arrange a race in a drag race circuit
between a stock Honda Fit and this Tuned by V-Force Honda Fit.
because with that much Wheel Horse Power Gain,
this V-Force should easily won the race by far.
another way is to do a lone drag race test using a testing equipment to measure
the 0-60mph and quarter mile, because again with this kind of new found horsepower,
the number should speak for itself.
This V-Force is a Piggy Back system.
It had a pre set programmed parameter that allow the engine to work in the "performance parameter from V-Force" instead of the "economy parameter from Honda".
This is almost similar as HonData,
the different is HonData offered "end user adjustibility",
while the adjusted parameter with V-Force is "fixed by the V-Force engineer".
so if everything is as described,
I would not be surprised if V-Force is making power gain
(or actually making power loss if their adjusted parameter don't suit the car)...
Of course without the Before and After Dyno on the same day and same dyno,
we can not say for sure whether this V-Force is making power gain (or power loss).
but in theory, this V-Force could well actually should make some power gain,
especially if combined with better intake flow and less restrictive exhaust system.
since the before dyno were not done,
the easiest way to prove this is to arrange a race in a drag race circuit
between a stock Honda Fit and this Tuned by V-Force Honda Fit.
because with that much Wheel Horse Power Gain,
this V-Force should easily won the race by far.
another way is to do a lone drag race test using a testing equipment to measure
the 0-60mph and quarter mile, because again with this kind of new found horsepower,
the number should speak for itself.
Alarm 1: they specify the same unit for all hondas, all years from 1989 through 2008.
Alarm 2: the installation instructions show inputs from the o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, MAF/MAP sensor. The output from this black box is sent to the ECU as the MAF input. All this can do is provide an altered air flow reading. All this can do is change the air/fuel mix. The amount of fuel being metered isn't open to interpretation; it's either correct given the air flow, or it isn't.
This is akin to the chips you see advertised on ebay all the time that splice between MAF/MAP and the ECU. These cannot alter timing or fuel maps. This isn't a tune; at worst it corrupts the signal from the MAF to your ECU. At best it does nothing. If you're inclined to buy one of these, I've got some select FL land to offer and maybe a bridge or two...
Alarm 2: the installation instructions show inputs from the o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, MAF/MAP sensor. The output from this black box is sent to the ECU as the MAF input. All this can do is provide an altered air flow reading. All this can do is change the air/fuel mix. The amount of fuel being metered isn't open to interpretation; it's either correct given the air flow, or it isn't.
This is akin to the chips you see advertised on ebay all the time that splice between MAF/MAP and the ECU. These cannot alter timing or fuel maps. This isn't a tune; at worst it corrupts the signal from the MAF to your ECU. At best it does nothing. If you're inclined to buy one of these, I've got some select FL land to offer and maybe a bridge or two...
Alarm 1: they specify the same unit for all hondas, all years from 1989 through 2008.
Alarm 2: the installation instructions show inputs from the o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, MAF/MAP sensor. The output from this black box is sent to the ECU as the MAF input. All this can do is provide an altered air flow reading. All this can do is change the air/fuel mix. The amount of fuel being metered isn't open to interpretation; it's either correct given the air flow, or it isn't.
This is akin to the chips you see advertised on ebay all the time that splice between MAF/MAP and the ECU. These cannot alter timing or fuel maps. This isn't a tune; at worst it corrupts the signal from the MAF to your ECU. At best it does nothing. If you're inclined to buy one of these, I've got some select FL land to offer and maybe a bridge or two...
Alarm 2: the installation instructions show inputs from the o2 sensor, throttle position sensor, MAF/MAP sensor. The output from this black box is sent to the ECU as the MAF input. All this can do is provide an altered air flow reading. All this can do is change the air/fuel mix. The amount of fuel being metered isn't open to interpretation; it's either correct given the air flow, or it isn't.
This is akin to the chips you see advertised on ebay all the time that splice between MAF/MAP and the ECU. These cannot alter timing or fuel maps. This isn't a tune; at worst it corrupts the signal from the MAF to your ECU. At best it does nothing. If you're inclined to buy one of these, I've got some select FL land to offer and maybe a bridge or two...
For alarm2, if this unit work as good as it is advertised, then if you can get the proper air/fuel ratio, it will do wonder to your car without even adjusting the timing.
When I was tuning carburetor racing motorcycles,
all I need to do to improve their performance is to change to free flowing filter and exhaust,
and then adjust the needle or the Main Jet and the Pilot Jet.
the timing can stay the same (or if we can adjust of course is better),
but again the timing can stay the same but with better fuel and air ratio,
the motorcycles will became much faster and smoother and with better low end torque too.
is this V-Force able to do the same thing?
I don't know, but in theory it is possible to make improvement in horsepower.
but as I said, the starter of this thread can easily answer that question for him and for us after he is done a real world test by either drag racing with other car (in safe environment) or by measuring his own car performance with accurate measurement devices.
or if he really curious, he can always took of the V-Force,
test dyno his car and then put the V-Force back and then test dyno his car. (on same dyno at same day).
Actual tunes require reprogramming the ECU, not altering the signals to it. The benefit of an aftermarket tune is limted as you are still not getting more air into the engine without forced induction. Improving exhaust restrictions will help, but the main one is the catalytic converter(s). I don't recommend removing this in CA...
advertising is just that, advertising. If you read their website carefully they're not making actual claims for specific performance improvements; "it's for the enthusiast that wants to improve performance."
The proper air/fuel mix is based on the amount of air entering the throttle body. This is sensed by the mass air flow (MAF) sensor. Replacing, augmenting, or bypassing this only corrupts the signal to the ECU resulting in too rich or too lean a mixture. Or it does nothing. The only thing that will make more power is getting more air into the engine. This will allow the MAF/MAP sensors to signal the ECU and the ECU will meter more fuel via the fuel injection. CAIs do this by allowing colder, more dense air into the engine, but cars today all have these from the factory, so there's not much to be gained from an aftermarket CAI.
Actual tunes require reprogramming the ECU, not altering the signals to it. The benefit of an aftermarket tune is limted as you are still not getting more air into the engine without forced induction. Improving exhaust restrictions will help, but the main one is the catalytic converter(s). I don't recommend removing this in CA...
advertising is just that, advertising. If you read their website carefully they're not making actual claims for specific performance improvements; "it's for the enthusiast that wants to improve performance."
Actual tunes require reprogramming the ECU, not altering the signals to it. The benefit of an aftermarket tune is limted as you are still not getting more air into the engine without forced induction. Improving exhaust restrictions will help, but the main one is the catalytic converter(s). I don't recommend removing this in CA...
advertising is just that, advertising. If you read their website carefully they're not making actual claims for specific performance improvements; "it's for the enthusiast that wants to improve performance."
and he will got a Check Engine Light error when he used "too large" of a diameter of inlet pipe near the air sensor around his DIY CAI.
That mean even if we can get a better flowing air into our Fit engine,
the stock factory ECU will detect it as TOO LEAN... so we need to "fool or cheat the stock ECU in thinking it is doing just fine"
so again in theory, if we install a bigger diameter flowing intake into our Fit,
we can get better performance by change the Air to Fuel mix ratio.
beside the current air to fuel mix ratio of the stock factory Fit most likely were tuned for full efficiency (lean to the max) thus the engine error light if it sense just a bit more air flow coming in...
I mean the Correct A/F mix ratio according to Honda stock ecu must be the one that provide the most efficient fuel consumption,
while an after market signal modifier piggy back like this product
will try to give a better A/F mix ratio for performance result,
meaning the fuel consumption might be much worse...
so again in theory, with the starter of this tread provide higher flowing intake and exhaust, the addition of this piggy back might give the better A/F ratio for performance (which of course most likely mean more fuel consumption too).
in the end, I can not say for sure this modification really improve performance unless more testing as I had said above were done,
why, because in theory this might work,
in real world, well it might work or it might not work,
or it might work in some rpm range while not work in some other rpm range.
but I also would not say this modification is just a con unless it is proven to be a con with further testing.
I am sure the starter of this thread who had spent his hard earned money for buying this module would be far more interested in proving either this work or not compare to us

after all, our money is still not on the line here
I had read on one of the thread here at fitfreak where the poster were making his own DIY Cold Air Intake from some different parts, and he will got a Check Engine Light error when he used "too large" of a diameter of inlet pipe near the air sensor around his DIY CAI.That mean even if we can get a better flowing air into our Fit engine, the stock factory ECU will detect it as TOO LEAN... so we need to "fool or cheat the stock ECU in thinking it is doing just fine"
I'd save your money for when Hondata has something to offer, but even so I haven't seen any compelling bolt-on or tune in terms of HP/$ short of forced induction, and that's $$thousands. OK there's also nitrous
This "fool or cheat" is crude. It may accidentally help at some portion of the power band, but this would be offset by an incorrect air/fuel mix across the rest. It can't alter fuel maps for performance gains. An actual ECU reflash with a new "tune" will, but I'm not aware of anyone offering this for GEs.
I'd save your money for when Hondata has something to offer, but even so I haven't seen any compelling bolt-on or tune in terms of HP/$ short of forced induction, and that's $$thousands. OK there's also nitrous
I'd save your money for when Hondata has something to offer, but even so I haven't seen any compelling bolt-on or tune in terms of HP/$ short of forced induction, and that's $$thousands. OK there's also nitrous

By the way,
Do you know how much horsepower gain can be achieved using Hondata with GD?
I am too lazy to search for it now,
just want to know the potential of hondata with GD
so hopefully it will be the same with our GE,...
I have no idea. DiamondStarMonsters is the go to guy for that. He's open to PMs. Don't tell him I sent you.
Wow I can't believe the beating I am getting in here ! I spent a lot of time and money on mods paid for a dyno . I just wanted to share results with the Fit community to show yes they can make more power . My car is running great no codes being thrown . I have seen a lot of people say yah my car makes this much power and do a dyno run not showing the results on the screen . To tell the truth my feeling are hurt . This was the last place I thought I be attacked . All I wanted to do was share my success with my Fit .
Don't get hurt by what people say. They're just skeptical of your gains because the product you used isn't known, or as some see it, an ebay snake oil kit.
To make this short, if you can, whenever you have the funds, try to dyno a stock Fit for a solid comparison. After this, you'll either be applauded or ridiculed. I hope it's the former!
To make this short, if you can, whenever you have the funds, try to dyno a stock Fit for a solid comparison. After this, you'll either be applauded or ridiculed. I hope it's the former!
Sorry for the naysayers they have nothing to contribute.
Please don't go away due to the stupidity of some members that have no idea what they are talking about and they disparage your controller but actually have never even seen one or know what it does or how it works.
Some of us appreciate your efforts and would like to follow your progress.
Why on earth would anyone in the world locate and run a stock Fit on ANOTHER dyno paying for it out of his own pocket just to satisfy someone who doesn't do the same thing with their own Fit?
Please don't go away due to the stupidity of some members that have no idea what they are talking about and they disparage your controller but actually have never even seen one or know what it does or how it works.
Some of us appreciate your efforts and would like to follow your progress.
Why on earth would anyone in the world locate and run a stock Fit on ANOTHER dyno paying for it out of his own pocket just to satisfy someone who doesn't do the same thing with their own Fit?
Easy, out of curiosity. It's in our nature to find things out. In his case, it would benefit the whole community, but I'm not forcing this upon him. He could either say, "I'm curious too, let's find out" or "F*ck the naysayers. I have a 121 whp fit, idc what everyone says."
Totally up to him. Either way, he's done something only a few have tried and actually posted and I commend him for that.
Totally up to him. Either way, he's done something only a few have tried and actually posted and I commend him for that.
What is up with people here? Another members takes the time to get his car dynoed where he lives, where he can afford it and posts his results, and some people bust his balls?
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.
At least he told us his mods and the results from the dyno that is his choice for all the world to see.
Don't agree with his results post YOUR results on your dyno, that you paid for, and tell us YOUR results don't bust the mans balls for at least letting all of us know what he found.


