Hi All

wondering if anyone can help me out here.

There have been a few occasions where I have got into my GE and turned the key with the below happening.

1. Cranks once then does not crank any more. All in cabin electrics come up fine.

so by nature when it stops after 1 crank, I immediately let go of turning the key.

The first few times this scenario happened I didnt give it a second thought and just assumed I wasnt turning the key hard enough. On each occasion I would just release the key wait 2 seconds and turn again and it would crank and come to life as usual.

As it continues to happen I'm starting to think something isnt right. So the last time it happened I did the below

- When it cranked once and went silent, I continued to HOLD the key in the turned position to see what would happen. After the first crank, there would be a delay followed by another crank... another delay and another crank. Basically cranking very very slowly with a second delay between each crank, the engine would not catch on and start.

- so after the above scenario, I let it rest for about 30 seconds and tried to start the car. no luck, didnt fire up. Just repeated the slow cranking scenario. after a few breaks and a few more tries it finally started up.

So something definitely isnt right, so does anyone have any ideas why its happening? some more info below.

Details on car

- 09 GE automatic
- Checked battery terminals and posts (without undoing them) looks to be okay and has some dieletric grease on them I beleive.
- Measured voltage on battery after a reasonable 30min drive and again in the morning cold. Voltage registered as 12.82v and 12.48v respectively.
- Battery has been 100% fine for all occasions except for this weird issue.

slow cranking issue seems to happen (when I notice it) when the car is parked for about 30mins (ie do some shopping) then when I get back in. Last time I caught it out temp was around 96-100.

did some research and a lot of Hot start issues with the relays come up but they were normally against older hondas.

ideas anyone? I'm hoping its battery but dont want to replace it unless I know for sure.

Any feedback or help would be appreciated.

 

Time for a new battery (but have it load tested at an auto parts store or Honda to be sure).

 

Yes, will aim to do that this weekend.

for the time being, Is there another way of verifying that its the battery via DIY means ?

 

Common problem in very hot climates. Tried a new starter on mine and it worked for awhile then came back got a new battery and same result. Learned to live with it.

 

Sounds like battery based on year of the vehicle but a starter or loose/bad connections can also cause that problem.

Your battery is getting a little old and replacing it should be considered as preventative maintenance at this point. If it solves your current (no pun intended, LOL) problem then you did well, if not, you were solving a future problem when your battery goes.

 

"for the time being, Is there another way of verifying that its the battery via DIY means ?"

Measure the battery voltage while it's being cranked, less than 9-10 volts indicates the battery has a low charge or is bad.

Clifton

 

Another easy check is for terminal tightness and corrosion. Vibration, heat (expansion/contraction) and corrosion will cause the battery connections themselves to fail. Remove and clean with a wire brush tool. Inspect cable ends for corrosion.

Engine cold or hot it works ok (from the OP's description). It could be an intermittent battery failure, triggered by high battery temperature. As the internal parts expand due to heat they can fail. The battery might pass a load test under most conditions.

The issue appears after the engine has been at operating temperature and the car is shut off and let sit for 30 minutes. With high outside temperatures and a hot engine compartment it will heat up even more as residual heat radiates from the engine. Since it's not running there is no "cold" air entering and being routed back to the battery area. As a result I think the battery is even hotter after 30 minutes of shutdown than immediately after turning the engine off.

It could be a starter, solenoid, cable ends etc. but these components should be in good shape after only 4 years. Also to perform a starting/charging test of the car, it'll need a good battery. A new battery is the easiest solution, and if it's 4 years old you're already ahead of the game in terms of average battery life.

 

To make this easier than trying to explain where to make connections for testing, I searched for this test online for you. Go to the page and look at the diagram. Everything below the "cranking current test" heading either requires an ammeter, starter removal/disassembly or doesnt apply to your symptoms.

The text below was cut and pasted from: Product & HowTo Info | | | TEST | AutoZone.com

You can do the "cranking voltage test" with a simple voltmeter which I think you have since you mentioned measuring battery voltage. If the cranking voltage is low then replace the battery. You dont need the remote starter switch if you have someone crank it for you. Sometimes I position the voltmeter in a spot on top of the engine or near the bottom of the hood when its up so I can watch the voltage reings when I crank it over myself.

Good luck!

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The starter motor is a special type of electrical motor designed for intermittent use only. During testing, it should never be operated for more than 30 seconds without resting for 2 minutes in between operation cycles to allow it to cool.
Cranking Voltage Test (Area Test)

The cranking voltage test measures the available voltage to the starter during cranking. To perform the test, disable the ignition or use a remote starter switch to bypass the ignition switch. Normally, the remote starter switch leads are connected to the positive terminal of the battery and the starter terminal of the solenoid or relay.

Using a remote starter switch to bypass the control circuit and igniton system. Courtesy of Ford Motor Company.
Refer to the service manual for specific instructions on the model car being tested. Connect the voltmeter's negative lead to a good chassis ground. Connect the positive lead to the starter motor feed at the starter relay or solenoid. Activate the starter motor and observe the voltage reading. Compare the reading to the specifications given in the service manual. Normally, 9.6 volts is the minimum required.

TEST CONCLUSIONS
If the reading is above specifications but the starter motor still cranks poorly, the starter motor is faulty. If the voltage reading is lower than specifications, a cranking current test and circuit resistance test should be performed to determine if the problem is caused by high resistance in the starter circuit or an engine problem.

 

The starter switch, itself, could be causing a continuity problem, but I would do the load test bypassing the switch first. I had a problem with my 09 battery and had to replace it in 2010. The load test showed fine... the sight glass showed fine... Even after overnight charge, all tests seemed fine, but if I couldn't start up on the first few cranks it wouldn't turn over anymore. I changed the battery and for the last 3 years it has given me no problem. If you research the battery problems you'll see that there have been numerous issues with the 09 battery. Most seem to have been fixed by replacement.

 

Remember, even a really bad battery can give a 12.5v reading with zero load. Have the battery loaded tested...and that reading can determine if the battery is on the way out.

 

Are you fit owners who have the original batteries maintaining the distilled water levels? Over looking that will cause a early grave for the battery. I've had to add water in mine already 7 months after I bought it. Yes it says maintenance free but it is not, distilled water has to be filled to the full line from time to time.

 

+1 needs ammeter test, not just a voltage test.

 

All very good points guys.

Most OEM batteries aren't the same as the long life replacements you can get. Keeps the cost down and squeaks by the factory warranty.

I smell an old battery here!

Just a thought. This battery is expensive because of the limited market so I suggest doing a search for upgraded battery on his forum and go with that if you are up to the slight mod. You may end up about the same cost but will have much more reserve capacity.

 

Still on the original 09 battery...never had to add any water since the levels are fine.

 

yeahbut your ammeter needs to measure in the 100s of amps. Not too many people outside of an autoshop or electrician would have one like that. A clamp-on field reader would do it. (this is a cheap one).

Also since current and voltage are related, you really need a fresh battery to do this test.