I installed a high output alternator in my 2012 Honda Fit. yesterday, I got it from quality power . A 250A. Ron at quality power was extremely helpful and awesome to work with.



Old and new side by side




Had to put a nut on factory bolt to shorten it, eventually I will get the right size, I just want to get a forged high temp automotive grade bolt first.




The foot bolt I had to use spacers on and had very little to work with because the pulley was right there




Did the big 3




Just enough room for new one


The problem I am having is it changed the geometry of the belt system. The new pulley is a bit smaller. When I took the belt off the factory belt was a horror to get off. The new alt the stock belt went on easy, the tensioner is now almost to its bottom. When I start the car the tensioner rattles a tiny bit and also at idle when ac kicks on.

I went and got the next size belt smaller. The factory belt is 45.3"OC (outer circumference the new one is 44.3"OC. I had to hunt 5 diffrent places to get this belt.

The issue I'm having is I can't get the new belt on. It's too tight. I can tell it's the right one based on how hard it was to get the factory belt off the stock alt. I used a piece of 4ga wire to lift tensioner just like a previous write up on this form member did.

Is there a specific way to install the belt? Seems even with tensioner all way loosen its still a bitch to get on. Even the factory belt with factory alt.

Do I have to get the tensioner tool? Or is pulling up on the tensioner a bad idea?

Thanks in advance

 

Somehow the drive belt replacement related thread was at bottom of my thread. If mods put it there THANK YOU! I took tire off and did it the way it said and got it on. All is well now. New HO alt works perfectly no noise, car runs smooth. Idle is perfect. Awesome modification.

If anyone is thinking about this modification, DO it! It's so worth it and such a nice add on and it's NO more work than a regular alt swap.

 

Hello,

Thanks for the informative thread,
I am interested in upgrading my alternators and I have some questions.

did your High Output Alternator have it's own external regulator that bypassed the factory regulator and ELD system?
Is your voltage higher than when you are using the original alternator?
Any battery warning light ever lit up on your dashboard?
Thank You

 

What is the belt number you ended up with for the 44.3" belt
Thank you

 

It's internally regulated, they made it with stock Honda regulator and pcm codes

I did the eld work around
Here's my thread, reason being I want the engine management to work the right way,
That way all of my sensors aren't in a limp mode you don't want That.

Sure you can cut the control wire at the alternator plug or go externally regulated the battery light will stay off only because there's power at the terminal . But electrically the cars computer will have an issue the ELD work around actually makes the regulator do all the controlling of current . Except in a few conditions the alternator will turn down like during hard acceleration , to about 85 to 90% of the time the regulator works normally it's worth the extra work 100% to do it this way I have 4500 W five amplifiers and I have zero problems with three tiny XS power XP 750 batteries that are the size of a motorcycle battery .

I'm going to take out the two small batteries I have under the hood and put a group 34 in there and leave the one little powerpack battery in the back . I could easily get away with just one really good battery under the hood and the alternator and that's it .

I have more detailed instructions if you do go with that same exact alternator from quality power if you would like or you can get one and try it on your own. The nice thing about this one is it's dual rectifier which essentially puts 12 diode at the output instead of only six . It comes in the 250 amp or higher version . I wish I would've spent the money and got the 300 or 350 amp in hindsight, at idle I have 160 A , So I'm not that mad .

If you need anymore help let me know doing it this way was definitely the right way to do it .

 

Hello,
Thank You so much on getting back to me so fast.
I really appreciate it

I am currently researching on my audio system upgrade and perhaps start buying parts/equipment soon.

What funny is,
I just found and read your other thread:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...ld-bypass.html
which is also a very good informative thread by the way,
and there is a link there back to this thread,
and that is how I found out that you just replied to my earlier question

My plan is just to have a 6x150RMS watt Zapco Z-150.6 LX amp
and
a Zapco Z-1KD mono amp for the 560RMS watt at 2 ohms for a JL Audio sub,
so I might get away with the stock alternator but if somehow I am not, then I already know which alternators I should buy right away.
(my car is my only daily driver so I can't afford to have it down for a long time).

I am also going to look more at DC power or Mechman or Mike Singer or QualityPowerAuto.com and Ohio Generator before I decide which vendor I am going to buy my alternator from.
Actually I just found out about those companies above and today
so I am still have so much to learn,

So far your thread had been the most helpful and most informative in explaining what the ELD system do, how to bypassed it, and how your 250A alternator very compatible with our Honda Fit GE.
I really appreciate it.

I wish I am a moderator and can make both of your post Sticky

Thanks again for your kind help and for sure I will ask you for guidance in the future for alternators.

 

A replacement stock size belt was a perfect fit, the stock belt , the one I took off was stretched because how tight it fits on the pulley system so I got a brand-new one and it was perfect the stock when I took off worked but it made the belt tensioner bottom out and run out of travel because it was so loose so I just re bought the stock size belt and put it on and it was perfect , yes I tried a smaller one and I couldn't get it on .

 

Yeah dude you won't be disappointed I promise your car will run perfect and it will have plenty of power..

I went with quality power alternator because they are actually able to get a hold of them. I tried singer and irragi, and a few others and you have to go through this stupid email process where you have to wait for them to write you back Mike singer actually wrote me back and said he could build a 200 amp out of the stock case but this is way way better than that that's a single rectifier build this is a double .

The guys at quality power were fast. they actually answer the phone they helped me engineer it so that my car wouldn't be a piece of crap but have lots of alternator power kind of thing ..
And it's a decent alternator it's Billit and looks nice , honestly whatever you get I'm sure will be better than what's in there now. This is just a proven upgrade with a proven case and there's no headache if you try someone else's and it doesn't fit

 

Now all you need is a giant battery to store all that energy!
I run a Kinetik HC1800 beast in new aluminum battery tray. Power is never a problem now.

 

ha no joke,
i actually use three XS power batteries
the XS power has 20% more lead than kenitic and the lead is virgin lead. (Not recycled) zero headligh dim on 4500w