The dipstick tube is stuck, how did you pull it out?
#1
The dipstick tube is stuck, how did you pull it out?
Im trying to replace the POS starter in my 08 fit but the dipstick tube wont come out of the block. I removed the 10mm bolt and bracket that holds it in place. I can rotate it, twist it, but it wont pull up and out.
Is there a trick to getting it out??
Replacing this starter is a bitch! I wish it was as easy as the b series starter.
Is there a trick to getting it out??
Replacing this starter is a bitch! I wish it was as easy as the b series starter.
#4
anyone else? someone please answer how did you get the dipstick removed?? you cant access the starter because its in the way. for the people who replaced their starter in their 07-08 fit how did you get the dipstick tube out?
#5
Generic answer, dipsticks, They are usually driven in with a hard mallet, In my experience they are removable, but you have a chance of bending them. They often have a bit of a flare on the bottom end that tends to kind of lock them in, I put a bolt in the top end so I can grab it with some vice grips and drive it out by tapping on the vice grips, but I haven't done the honda one..
#8
If you have removed the one bolt and gotten the dipstick tube to twist freely in its hole, it should pull straight out.
It may require some effort to pull out. Twist it back and forth as you pull?
There is a rubber O ring that seals the tube into the hole.
It may require some effort to pull out. Twist it back and forth as you pull?
There is a rubber O ring that seals the tube into the hole.
#9
I did that. Itll twist around in its hole, but it wont pull out. Its seriously like stuck in there. I tried vice grips even, it just wont come out...
#13
I had to remove the dipstick tube on my 2009 Honda Fit Sport to replace the starter. It was a bit of a pain. I tried rotating an pulling by hand without success. I did not want to damage the tube, so I tried a pair of large needle nose pliers on the bracket welded to the tube. I wiggled and twisted and it popped free. Try to keep the pull straight out to avoid binding. When reinstalling the dipstick tube, lube the O-ring with a little engine oil or silicone grease (my preference). It will slide back in so easy that you will wonder why it was so difficult to remove.
#14
This thread is sort of dead, but I'll comment for anyone who finds it from Google when doing a starter repair. The dipstick tube is in the way of the starter, and I had to remove it to pull the starter on my wife's 2008 Fit Sport. That was one of the worst parts of what was already a difficult job. After 10 northeast winters the tube was in there pretty good.
I already had the car up on jack stands, and had removed the plastic "splash guard" that covered the bottom of the car. I also removed the oil filter, which gave me significantly more room to work with. That step might not be absolutely necessary, but I think it's worth it.
To take the dipstick out I first removed the bolt (10mm?) that was on the small bracket on center of the tube, but the tube wouldn't budge. What finally worked was first generously spraying the base of the tube (where it meets the engine block) with some penetrating oil (PB blaster) and then letting it sit for 30 minutes.
I then took a 10 inch piece of steel rebar and a hammer, and laying underneath the vehicle I used the rebar and hammer to tap the bottom side of the bracket from underneath. After I gave a few good taps on the bracket I wiggled the base of the tube from side to side a little bit. I continued spraying, tapping, and wiggling the tube until it came free.
To reinstall I coated the base of the tube and the o-ring with grease, and pressed it in with my hand while standing above the engine. I also found a length of scrap wood (around 1x1/2x12 inches), and with the oil dipstick removed, placed the wood on the top of the tube and lightly tapped the wood with my hammer. It went in much easier than it came out. Then you just need to reinstall the bolt. I did not replace the o-ring at the bottom of the tube, and so far it doesn't appear to leak. But I'll be checking on it, and if I was going to do this job again I might replace it just to be safe.
I already had the car up on jack stands, and had removed the plastic "splash guard" that covered the bottom of the car. I also removed the oil filter, which gave me significantly more room to work with. That step might not be absolutely necessary, but I think it's worth it.
To take the dipstick out I first removed the bolt (10mm?) that was on the small bracket on center of the tube, but the tube wouldn't budge. What finally worked was first generously spraying the base of the tube (where it meets the engine block) with some penetrating oil (PB blaster) and then letting it sit for 30 minutes.
I then took a 10 inch piece of steel rebar and a hammer, and laying underneath the vehicle I used the rebar and hammer to tap the bottom side of the bracket from underneath. After I gave a few good taps on the bracket I wiggled the base of the tube from side to side a little bit. I continued spraying, tapping, and wiggling the tube until it came free.
To reinstall I coated the base of the tube and the o-ring with grease, and pressed it in with my hand while standing above the engine. I also found a length of scrap wood (around 1x1/2x12 inches), and with the oil dipstick removed, placed the wood on the top of the tube and lightly tapped the wood with my hammer. It went in much easier than it came out. Then you just need to reinstall the bolt. I did not replace the o-ring at the bottom of the tube, and so far it doesn't appear to leak. But I'll be checking on it, and if I was going to do this job again I might replace it just to be safe.
#15
This thread is sort of dead, but I'll comment for anyone who finds it from Google when doing a starter repair. The dipstick tube is in the way of the starter, and I had to remove it to pull the starter on my wife's 2008 Fit Sport. That was one of the worst parts of what was already a difficult job. After 10 northeast winters the tube was in there pretty good.
I already had the car up on jack stands, and had removed the plastic "splash guard" that covered the bottom of the car. I also removed the oil filter, which gave me significantly more room to work with. That step might not be absolutely necessary, but I think it's worth it.
To take the dipstick out I first removed the bolt (10mm?) that was on the small bracket on center of the tube, but the tube wouldn't budge. What finally worked was first generously spraying the base of the tube (where it meets the engine block) with some penetrating oil (PB blaster) and then letting it sit for 30 minutes.
I then took a 10 inch piece of steel rebar and a hammer, and laying underneath the vehicle I used the rebar and hammer to tap the bottom side of the bracket from underneath. After I gave a few good taps on the bracket I wiggled the base of the tube from side to side a little bit. I continued spraying, tapping, and wiggling the tube until it came free.
To reinstall I coated the base of the tube and the o-ring with grease, and pressed it in with my hand while standing above the engine. I also found a length of scrap wood (around 1x1/2x12 inches), and with the oil dipstick removed, placed the wood on the top of the tube and lightly tapped the wood with my hammer. It went in much easier than it came out. Then you just need to reinstall the bolt. I did not replace the o-ring at the bottom of the tube, and so far it doesn't appear to leak. But I'll be checking on it, and if I was going to do this job again I might replace it just to be safe.
I already had the car up on jack stands, and had removed the plastic "splash guard" that covered the bottom of the car. I also removed the oil filter, which gave me significantly more room to work with. That step might not be absolutely necessary, but I think it's worth it.
To take the dipstick out I first removed the bolt (10mm?) that was on the small bracket on center of the tube, but the tube wouldn't budge. What finally worked was first generously spraying the base of the tube (where it meets the engine block) with some penetrating oil (PB blaster) and then letting it sit for 30 minutes.
I then took a 10 inch piece of steel rebar and a hammer, and laying underneath the vehicle I used the rebar and hammer to tap the bottom side of the bracket from underneath. After I gave a few good taps on the bracket I wiggled the base of the tube from side to side a little bit. I continued spraying, tapping, and wiggling the tube until it came free.
To reinstall I coated the base of the tube and the o-ring with grease, and pressed it in with my hand while standing above the engine. I also found a length of scrap wood (around 1x1/2x12 inches), and with the oil dipstick removed, placed the wood on the top of the tube and lightly tapped the wood with my hammer. It went in much easier than it came out. Then you just need to reinstall the bolt. I did not replace the o-ring at the bottom of the tube, and so far it doesn't appear to leak. But I'll be checking on it, and if I was going to do this job again I might replace it just to be safe.
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