Hi Everyone,
First post....I'm excited to be a part of this site.
I have a 2010 automatic sport. If it sits overnight, the crank will be long (5 seconds). However, after it warms up it will crank normally.
I am suspecting the fuel pressure regulator, but I want to practice diagnosis and testing instead of part swapping.
There are no codes, and the plugs are new (NGK).
I've tried turning the key on, then off a few times before a cold start to prime the lines, however this does not seem to shorten crank time. Ive also cleaned the MAF sensor, which did not shorten crank either.

Without throwing a bunch of parts at it, does anyone have an idea of how I could test if its a leaky fuel injector over a leaky fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks in advance!

~Nick

 

Welcome Nick. I do not see a crank of 5 secs being too long. Just live with it. Mine is sometimes a bit longer than usual.

I did upgrade to a 51R battery last summer. What a difference in the frigid winter.

Hey I had no idea where you lived so did a Google Map search. Nice small city.

Bill

 

 

Thanks, Black3sr...I do like living in a small town, it's more my speed.
True, the long crank is not really a problem. Also, it's my wife's car...and she couldnt care less, as long as it runs. This is more to practice diagnosing car issues. It's interesting to me that the car cranks longer at first start up than it does after being driven for a while.

Hi Fujisawa, I see what you mean....The battery seems to be a good place to start. The battery in this car is about 3 years old. I replaced the battery 3 years ago in an effort to solve this issue. I'm wondering if Honda has a delay to build oil pressure if coolant temp is below a certain value?

 

Well three years is not that old and if it didn't help the problem it might be a waste to do it again.

 

My '13 Fit also cranks for a few seconds in cold temperatures (below freezing). Usually after 4-5 seconds of cranking I turn back the key, wait 2-3 seconds and try again. On the second cranking attempt it always starts the engine pretty fast.

When the engine is still warm (after a drive), or it's above freezing outside, I don't have this "issue". The only other occasions I've noticed long cracking times is after doing a series of very short trips consecutively.

I always use 0W-20 oils, but the battery is still original (5 years now).
I've had the car for 2.5 years and it's been the same the entire time.

Before getting ahead of yourself trying to change all sorts of parts, please clarify the following:

1) as fujisawa asked - are you using a "0W" oil ? and is the oil changed regularly ?

2) is the car sometimes subjected to a long series of very short trips? (these will drain the battery)

 

Hi Everyone,
Found the issue! However, to answer some of your questions....I do use a 0w-20 oil and have changed it regularly. And my wife does do lots of short trips. So, the battery is due, regardless.
The issue turned out to be a faulty check valve in the fuel pump! I had a heck of a time finding a replacememnt for the fuel pump alone as opposed to the whole assembly.
So, if someone else is having similar issues, it would be worth checking that check valve.

Cheers,
Nick

 

I have a 2012 sport that is having similar issues. Where were you able to find just the fuel pump?