Issues with power door locks (low voltage at plug)
I've got an 09' Fit Base with door & hatch locks that are giving me grief.
The front passenger will not unlock using the button or fob (unlocks fine with key) - door gets low voltage at the receptacle (only get about 5-7V)
Bench-tested actuator with 9V battery and it works fine (not the actuator motor)
The rear passenger door will not unlock using the button or fob - will check voltage & bench test tomorrow
The hatchback will not unlock with button or fob (unlocks fine with key) - will check voltage tomorrow
- already replaced the actuator motor today
- works fine with a 9V battery (not the actuator motor)
Both front & rear driver's side doors function with button, fob & double-turn of key
Has anyone else run into this kind of issue (e.g. voltage drop at the receptacle not having enough power to cycle the actuator)? If so, can anyone offer any recommendations how to troubleshoot / fix?
Troubleshooting steps so far:
- checked 30A door lock fuse with ohmmeter and it's good
- used a 9v Battery to test the actuator circuits on the doors (if the door locks/unlocks with the 9V battery, it's obviously not a failed actuator)
Thanks for your help!
Lou
The front passenger will not unlock using the button or fob (unlocks fine with key) - door gets low voltage at the receptacle (only get about 5-7V)
Bench-tested actuator with 9V battery and it works fine (not the actuator motor)
The rear passenger door will not unlock using the button or fob - will check voltage & bench test tomorrow
The hatchback will not unlock with button or fob (unlocks fine with key) - will check voltage tomorrow
- already replaced the actuator motor today
- works fine with a 9V battery (not the actuator motor)
Both front & rear driver's side doors function with button, fob & double-turn of key
Has anyone else run into this kind of issue (e.g. voltage drop at the receptacle not having enough power to cycle the actuator)? If so, can anyone offer any recommendations how to troubleshoot / fix?
Troubleshooting steps so far:
- checked 30A door lock fuse with ohmmeter and it's good
- used a 9v Battery to test the actuator circuits on the doors (if the door locks/unlocks with the 9V battery, it's obviously not a failed actuator)
Thanks for your help!
Lou
update
All fuses checked out (tested 35, 38, 49 & 50 - all 4 were good, pulled & swapped just to make sure there wasn't any oxidation on the contacts).
I did find some dealer-installed after-market wiring harnesses installed under the dash (they were tucked way up, deep).
There's a square relay wired-in to one of the cable bundles (I remember that the dealer removed their anti-theft device when I bought the car)...looks like they just pulled the circuitry and left the harness.
I'm thinking this relay (or some other short in the cabling) may be the culprit.
It has been crazy hot every day in So. Cal & I have a couple other projects that are taking all of my time.
Thanks for the follow-up, I'll get on it more this week.
I did find some dealer-installed after-market wiring harnesses installed under the dash (they were tucked way up, deep).
There's a square relay wired-in to one of the cable bundles (I remember that the dealer removed their anti-theft device when I bought the car)...looks like they just pulled the circuitry and left the harness.
I'm thinking this relay (or some other short in the cabling) may be the culprit.
It has been crazy hot every day in So. Cal & I have a couple other projects that are taking all of my time.
Thanks for the follow-up, I'll get on it more this week.
Last edited by lounatech; Aug 7, 2018 at 02:19 AM.
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