Bad PCV Valve
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 274
From: Pittsburgh, PA
Take it out and shake it. Should rattle. If it looks old just change it. Not worth much effort for a cheap replacement.
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 17
From: Caribbean
They last a pretty long time. They can get clogged, so take it out and look. Losing oil seems to be the big symptom, but it could just be running a little worse.
Take it out and shake it. Should rattle. If it looks old just change it. Not worth much effort for a cheap replacement.
Take it out and shake it. Should rattle. If it looks old just change it. Not worth much effort for a cheap replacement.
Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 783
From: Harrisburg, PA
Well, if you start out with the proper oil level in the crankcase and you don't see any oil dripping off of the engine, the only way out is to the atmosphere is through the combustion chamber. Again, you don't see any oil spots on the pavement where the car is parked and/or you don't see oily residue on the bottom on the engine / car surfaces?
There are two routes to the atmosphere through the combustion chamber: in the old days, valve covers had "breather caps" that allowed crankcase pressure & oil fumes to escape but now that is controlled by the PVC system of valve & tubing that feeds back into engine intake at some location. OR, the oil is leaking into the combustion chambers around bad valve guides or bad piston rings. With the volume of loss you're experiencing, I'd have to say that there should be some oily residue on the surface of the exhaust tip if not "blue" smoke and/or the odor of burning motor oil if you sample the exhaust fumes with a "calibrated" nose.
Your spark plugs could provide some info. If they are black / oily then you know that the oil is being burned: bad valve guides, piston rings, PVC system. If only one / two spark plugs are black / oily then you can eliminate the PVC system because all spark plugs should be seeing the same amount of oil mist under that scenario. But a black / oily plug isn't good if you haven't seen the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) indicating a misfire. A misfire would say the the plug is bad, and if not firing, that cylinder could have weird pressure / vacuum cycles and be "sucking" oil past the piston rings / valve guides. All new plugs and possibly a new coil pack on the bad cylinder would fix it. Absent a CEL, that would indicate a bad cylinder system = $$$ because then it would be piston rings and/or valve guides.
Keep us updated, Thx
There are two routes to the atmosphere through the combustion chamber: in the old days, valve covers had "breather caps" that allowed crankcase pressure & oil fumes to escape but now that is controlled by the PVC system of valve & tubing that feeds back into engine intake at some location. OR, the oil is leaking into the combustion chambers around bad valve guides or bad piston rings. With the volume of loss you're experiencing, I'd have to say that there should be some oily residue on the surface of the exhaust tip if not "blue" smoke and/or the odor of burning motor oil if you sample the exhaust fumes with a "calibrated" nose.
Your spark plugs could provide some info. If they are black / oily then you know that the oil is being burned: bad valve guides, piston rings, PVC system. If only one / two spark plugs are black / oily then you can eliminate the PVC system because all spark plugs should be seeing the same amount of oil mist under that scenario. But a black / oily plug isn't good if you haven't seen the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) indicating a misfire. A misfire would say the the plug is bad, and if not firing, that cylinder could have weird pressure / vacuum cycles and be "sucking" oil past the piston rings / valve guides. All new plugs and possibly a new coil pack on the bad cylinder would fix it. Absent a CEL, that would indicate a bad cylinder system = $$$ because then it would be piston rings and/or valve guides.
Keep us updated, Thx
Last edited by spike55_bmw; Oct 11, 2018 at 07:38 AM.
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 17
From: Caribbean
Well, if you start out with the proper oil level in the crankcase and you don't see any oil dripping off of the engine, the only way out is to the atmosphere is through the combustion chamber. Again, you don't see any oil spots on the pavement where the car is parked and/or you don't see oily residue on the bottom on the engine / car surfaces?
There are two routes to the atmosphere through the combustion chamber: in the old days, valve covers had "breather caps" that allowed crankcase pressure & oil fumes to escape but now that is controlled by the PVC system of valve & tubing that feeds back into engine intake at some location. OR, the oil is leaking into the combustion chambers around bad valve guides or bad piston rings. With the volume of loss you're experiencing, I'd have to say that there should be some oily residue on the surface of the exhaust tip if not "blue" smoke and/or the odor of burning motor oil if you sample the exhaust fumes with a "calibrated" nose.
Your spark plugs could provide some info. If they are black / oily then you know that the oil is being burned: bad valve guides, piston rings, PVC system. If only one / two spark plugs are black / oily then you can eliminate the PVC system because all spark plugs should be seeing the same amount of oil mist under that scenario. But a black / oily plug isn't good if you haven't seen the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) indicating a misfire. A misfire would say the the plug is bad, and if not firing, that cylinder could have weird pressure / vacuum cycles and be "sucking" oil past the piston rings / valve guides. All new plugs and possibly a new coil pack on the bad cylinder would fix it. Absent a CEL, that would indicate a bad cylinder system = $$$ because then it would be piston rings and/or valve guides.
Keep us updated, Thx
There are two routes to the atmosphere through the combustion chamber: in the old days, valve covers had "breather caps" that allowed crankcase pressure & oil fumes to escape but now that is controlled by the PVC system of valve & tubing that feeds back into engine intake at some location. OR, the oil is leaking into the combustion chambers around bad valve guides or bad piston rings. With the volume of loss you're experiencing, I'd have to say that there should be some oily residue on the surface of the exhaust tip if not "blue" smoke and/or the odor of burning motor oil if you sample the exhaust fumes with a "calibrated" nose.
Your spark plugs could provide some info. If they are black / oily then you know that the oil is being burned: bad valve guides, piston rings, PVC system. If only one / two spark plugs are black / oily then you can eliminate the PVC system because all spark plugs should be seeing the same amount of oil mist under that scenario. But a black / oily plug isn't good if you haven't seen the Check-Engine-Light (CEL) indicating a misfire. A misfire would say the the plug is bad, and if not firing, that cylinder could have weird pressure / vacuum cycles and be "sucking" oil past the piston rings / valve guides. All new plugs and possibly a new coil pack on the bad cylinder would fix it. Absent a CEL, that would indicate a bad cylinder system = $$$ because then it would be piston rings and/or valve guides.
Keep us updated, Thx
Last edited by Henus; Oct 11, 2018 at 10:02 PM.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asUgoPci52k
After the PCV valve I would check the plugs and ignition coils.
After the PCV valve I would check the plugs and ignition coils.
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