3157
#1
3157
I recently changed my turn signal bulbs from a OE to be able to run the 3157 dual filament bulb. why? Because i've always wished the turn signals would stay lit so it could also serve as a running light. plus it looks cool. Also now you can run switchback lights like ohanahuichubbz did in his switchback thread here https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...check-out.html. i was just wondering if anyone would be interested if i did a DIY on adding the 3157 dual filament socket?
#4
holy crap! sorry to of left you guys hanging. nobody showed any interest so i guess i kind of forgot about it. but YEA! def. will post a write up tomorrow after church. untill then here's pictures of how it looks to have them as running lights. and plus when you hit unlock/lock all 4 light up sexay.
#5
holy crap! sorry to of left you guys hanging. nobody showed any interest so i guess i kind of forgot about it. but YEA! def. will post a write up tomorrow after church. untill then here's pictures of how it looks to have them as running lights. and plus when you hit unlock/lock all 4 light up sexay.
#7
YUP! its all written up. i could post it up now, but i thought it was kind of useless without pictures, so i'm just waiting for cannon to ship back the girlfriend's T2i. i can post up the written portion anyways if you guys want?
#9
The usual Disclaimer; If you do this and F up, bottom line its your fault. Don't blame me or fitfreak.
ok. so this is my first DIY so if something needs to be clairifed please do it in a social manner. With that said ON TO STEP 1!
1. first step would be to go down to your local auto store and get yourself a 3157 socket. i actually had a harder time finding this then i thought, so to answer any future questions, i got mine from Autozone. Price was about 6 bucks each. While your at it you might as well grab 2, 3157 NA bulbs. (orange) sorry guys didn't take a picture but found this one on the interWeb. it looks Identical to the one i thought. (if you seriously need me to take a picture of the exact socket in its packaging, let me know) notice it has 3 lead wires that come out of it, and when your buying a socket, its not too crucial, but i would SUGGEST buying one where it has a 90 degree bend to it.
Also while your down at the auto store grab some 14-18 guage quick connects. mine were blue and was right next to the sockets. (this should all be in to the bulb replacement section by the way.)
2. twist out your old turn signal and remove the old socket from the plug in adapter. from here on out when i say "adapter" i mean this part. the part that clips into the old socket.
Side note, i love doing things that are reversable so if at anytime you want to go OE, all you have to do is remove all the wires you add, clip the old socket back on the adapter and plug the old socket back in the headlight housing.
3. as you can see your new socket isn't going to fit into hole in your headlights because the tab won't line up. Solution? i dremeled the tabs off. i also noticed that the overall diameter of the new socket is way bigger!! problem? no! actually it was the solution. the original problem was; how was i going to get the socket not to fall out of the headlight if it had no tabs left? simple! since the overall diameter of the new socket is a tad too big all you have to do is dremel around the outside shell slowly and test fit and i stress TEST FIT!!!!! untill the socket can be placed in the headlight pretty snugg and not fall out. If you grind too much off it'll be in there pretty sloppy and not sit in the headlight housing nice and flush. here's how mine turned out. its actually really smooth. it seems kind of rough in the picture though.
4. Next you have to peel back the electrical tape they added to the end of the adapter of your old socket so you can expose the negative and positive wires. obviously my power was white and my negative was black.
5. next find out what is what on your socket. on mine it was labeled; A, B, and G on the back of the socket. A powered the turnsignal portion of the bulb, B powered the running light portion, and G was ground. so plug in the 3157 bulb. Use 1 of your quick connects and connect the ground lead wire from the socket to the black wire on your turnsignal adapter.
side note. if you don't know how to use a quick connect its bascially you slide your negative wire from your adapter in between the connector, and you slide your negative lead from your socket on the other side then clamp it all togather like a sandwhich. theres a medal thing in the middle that gets push down stripping just enough of the wires to get a connection from both wires.
6. Next you want to quick connect one of your leads to the positive wire from the adapter. you may want to now at this point go into your car and hit the turnsignals to make sure it blinks.
7. Twist out your little running light at the top of your headlight and just like the turnsignal adapter, you have to trim off a bit of the electrical tape to expose the negative and positive wires. next quick connect the last lead from your socket to the positive wire on your running light adapter. You may have to add a bit of loose wire to this lead to get it to reach the running light wire like i did. Now go turn on your lights and the bulb should be lit. now hit your turnsignal and it should then blink!.
---------------------------optional---------------------
While i was at the store i also grabbed some of those plastic things that covers the wires so it looks more of a cleaner install. got all the wires covered up and less messy. split looms i think they call them.
--------------------------------------------------------
8. Just plug your new socket in, (you can jsut keep the old socket some place safe incase you ever want to use it again, or throw it away, your preferance.) plug the little running light back, hide the wires a bit under the headlight if you like and your done!
ok. so this is my first DIY so if something needs to be clairifed please do it in a social manner. With that said ON TO STEP 1!
1. first step would be to go down to your local auto store and get yourself a 3157 socket. i actually had a harder time finding this then i thought, so to answer any future questions, i got mine from Autozone. Price was about 6 bucks each. While your at it you might as well grab 2, 3157 NA bulbs. (orange) sorry guys didn't take a picture but found this one on the interWeb. it looks Identical to the one i thought. (if you seriously need me to take a picture of the exact socket in its packaging, let me know) notice it has 3 lead wires that come out of it, and when your buying a socket, its not too crucial, but i would SUGGEST buying one where it has a 90 degree bend to it.
Also while your down at the auto store grab some 14-18 guage quick connects. mine were blue and was right next to the sockets. (this should all be in to the bulb replacement section by the way.)
2. twist out your old turn signal and remove the old socket from the plug in adapter. from here on out when i say "adapter" i mean this part. the part that clips into the old socket.
Side note, i love doing things that are reversable so if at anytime you want to go OE, all you have to do is remove all the wires you add, clip the old socket back on the adapter and plug the old socket back in the headlight housing.
3. as you can see your new socket isn't going to fit into hole in your headlights because the tab won't line up. Solution? i dremeled the tabs off. i also noticed that the overall diameter of the new socket is way bigger!! problem? no! actually it was the solution. the original problem was; how was i going to get the socket not to fall out of the headlight if it had no tabs left? simple! since the overall diameter of the new socket is a tad too big all you have to do is dremel around the outside shell slowly and test fit and i stress TEST FIT!!!!! untill the socket can be placed in the headlight pretty snugg and not fall out. If you grind too much off it'll be in there pretty sloppy and not sit in the headlight housing nice and flush. here's how mine turned out. its actually really smooth. it seems kind of rough in the picture though.
4. Next you have to peel back the electrical tape they added to the end of the adapter of your old socket so you can expose the negative and positive wires. obviously my power was white and my negative was black.
5. next find out what is what on your socket. on mine it was labeled; A, B, and G on the back of the socket. A powered the turnsignal portion of the bulb, B powered the running light portion, and G was ground. so plug in the 3157 bulb. Use 1 of your quick connects and connect the ground lead wire from the socket to the black wire on your turnsignal adapter.
side note. if you don't know how to use a quick connect its bascially you slide your negative wire from your adapter in between the connector, and you slide your negative lead from your socket on the other side then clamp it all togather like a sandwhich. theres a medal thing in the middle that gets push down stripping just enough of the wires to get a connection from both wires.
6. Next you want to quick connect one of your leads to the positive wire from the adapter. you may want to now at this point go into your car and hit the turnsignals to make sure it blinks.
7. Twist out your little running light at the top of your headlight and just like the turnsignal adapter, you have to trim off a bit of the electrical tape to expose the negative and positive wires. next quick connect the last lead from your socket to the positive wire on your running light adapter. You may have to add a bit of loose wire to this lead to get it to reach the running light wire like i did. Now go turn on your lights and the bulb should be lit. now hit your turnsignal and it should then blink!.
---------------------------optional---------------------
While i was at the store i also grabbed some of those plastic things that covers the wires so it looks more of a cleaner install. got all the wires covered up and less messy. split looms i think they call them.
--------------------------------------------------------
8. Just plug your new socket in, (you can jsut keep the old socket some place safe incase you ever want to use it again, or throw it away, your preferance.) plug the little running light back, hide the wires a bit under the headlight if you like and your done!
Last edited by EvoFit; 05-09-2011 at 12:36 AM.
#11
Nicely explained!
One tiny refinement: Wrap the quick-connects in 2-3 layers of quality electrical tape when done. Split loom won't keep the elements out of the connections over a harsh winter, or even during a rainy weekend.
One tiny refinement: Wrap the quick-connects in 2-3 layers of quality electrical tape when done. Split loom won't keep the elements out of the connections over a harsh winter, or even during a rainy weekend.
#13
good idea! as for me i store my fit during winter, and i also electrical taped the loom shut kind of like OE. which was my goal.
#15
I do believe I showed you my lights at WEKFEST
Anyway... I have been running dual filament for a couple few months now. The stock bulb is 1156 which is a single filament, the counterpart dual filament bulb is 1157... I went with 1157 (coz it was the most logical choice). They are basically almost the same in a sense, except the number of filament and the orientation of the locking crowns/pegs. The only mod I did with the socket was this...
left is stock 1157 and right is modded (notice the locking crowns or whatever it's called). Push and twist to lock like stock. So far, even with only 3 lock pegs... it held well and seal is good.
The only CON... 1157 socket points the blue/white positive lead wire up so the prong header will catch water. Solution... I filled and sealed it with high temp silicon sealant... done.
here's an old pic... park, turn/park and fog are all yellw
Anyway... I have been running dual filament for a couple few months now. The stock bulb is 1156 which is a single filament, the counterpart dual filament bulb is 1157... I went with 1157 (coz it was the most logical choice). They are basically almost the same in a sense, except the number of filament and the orientation of the locking crowns/pegs. The only mod I did with the socket was this...
left is stock 1157 and right is modded (notice the locking crowns or whatever it's called). Push and twist to lock like stock. So far, even with only 3 lock pegs... it held well and seal is good.
The only CON... 1157 socket points the blue/white positive lead wire up so the prong header will catch water. Solution... I filled and sealed it with high temp silicon sealant... done.
here's an old pic... park, turn/park and fog are all yellw
Last edited by ThEvil0nE; 10-06-2011 at 10:16 PM.
#17
wiring is the same as OP's. only thing to take note is to keep the blinkers in 27w and markers on 8w. you can however do 28w on markers but it'll burn out quickly.
I did purchase another socket with leads pointing down 1157 2357 LED Bulbs Signal Lights Socket Harness Plugs | eBay
I did purchase another socket with leads pointing down 1157 2357 LED Bulbs Signal Lights Socket Harness Plugs | eBay
#18
I did purchase another socket with leads pointing down 1157 2357 LED Bulbs Signal Lights Socket Harness Plugs | eBay
#20
You can do the same using Honda Parts:
2 x '96-'00 Civic front turn signal sockets 33302-SR3-A01
1 pack '96-'00 Civic connectors 04321-SR3-308 (it comes in a 5 units per pack)
1 pack of pig tail connectors 04320-SP0-E00
I'm working on it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...formation.html
2 x '96-'00 Civic front turn signal sockets 33302-SR3-A01
1 pack '96-'00 Civic connectors 04321-SR3-308 (it comes in a 5 units per pack)
1 pack of pig tail connectors 04320-SP0-E00
I'm working on it:
https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/2nd-...formation.html
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