Does anyone have a good replacement for the Deatschwerks 9-651-1009 DW65C? Mine has broken last week and I am trying to find a replacement, maybe a Denso replacement? But I can't find a part number.

EDIT: I found alpines fuel pump on ebay! I am going to order one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265-LPH-In-...zTYq:rk:1:pf:0

 

Update:
It came in really quickly actually. I took a week off and this weekend I was free so I ended up installing it. So much easier the 3rd time opening up my fuel tank! I bet i can change one of these really quick now!

OK so the truth is The DW fuel pump for me didn't read the correct fuel gauge! i took it on and off twice with the same results! People on the forms will say the float and the pump are unrelated but they ARE WRONG there are plenty of other car brands that are like this where the resistor's are utilized in the fuel pump as well to determine and calculate the fuel gauge meter. This youtube symptoms is the EXACT symptoms I had!!!! I had an empty fuel tank but the sender kept on reporting a fuel tank and this left me stranded on the road a few weeks ago!!! and going with a Denso GT-R fuel pump solved my problems.

again... if you are trying to get a GT-R fuel pump, the part number is:
265 LPH In tank high pressure Universal fuel pump Genuine Denso 195131-9520

Here are pics of my re-install for like the 3rd time. I ended up using 4 O-rings just to be safe like many other fit members on it. If you are using the DW fuel pump 1 o-ring is good enough because it used a barb flange and it is LARGER compared to the GT-R and stock fuel pump. If you are using the GT-R fuel pump I would recommend leaving the original plastic piece off and use all of your extra O-rings on the flange. I also used a plastic trash bag to cover the gas tank hole while I work on the fuel pump assembly because i don't want any dirt falling in the tank

 

The only problem with that video is... it doesn't actually say anything with regards to agreeing with you. They're talking about the "pump" as a whole, not the specific pump motor. They specifically tested only the resistance of the float and didn't test the resistance of anything other than the float (nor current or voltage). Their statement about the anti-slosh module didn't say the module was in the pump either. The module would most likely be in the ECM itself, so that's still separate from the pump.

And if there was a wire that ran from the float module through the pump, then maybe I could see your argument. But there isn't.

In one of the pictures of the wiring, there appears to be a wire that goes from the pump plug to one of the corrugated tubes. But it looks like a grounding wire, so, I can't see that being much else.

You didn't say, but did you check the (various) resistances before/after swapping from the DW to the Denso?

 

I am just sharing my experience of my issues and how I resolved them. I could be wrong... but hopefully this will help others that may run into the same issue and they are trying to get their fuel gauge working again.

 

I'm all for you sharing your experience... but don't you acknowledge that, in order to replace just the fuel pump, you have to mess with the entire fuel bucket assembly? Yes, you said you did it twice with the same issue... but that doesn't eliminate the situation where something went wrong in the process for both times.... and that something, you managed to avoid on the third time?

I've done most, if not all of the oil changes on my Fit and a handful on other cars... and on more than one occasion, I've repeated one error... forgetting to put the oil cap back on. This is a blatantly obvious error, but nonetheless, it has happened more than once.

I just checked with the service manual, in contrast to the video, the resistances go DOWN as the fuel level rises...

meaning, if one the two plugs (topside and underside of top of the bucket) wasn't fully secure and moved enough to disconnect, the ECM could only read it as full. Or if, for whatever reason, the connection between the floater and the circuit "fan" didn't contact in the empty position, you'd get the same issue. Something that does happen to plugs of this type... the wire pins on the inside could've loosened themselves from the plug itself, never actually securing itself with the opposite connection and moved enough to lose contact. These are all just some possibilities.

One way to check would've been to measure the resistance at the top of the bucket before pulling the assembly out of the tank, then after pulling it and while moving the float around. And then checking it again after swapping the pump (and even with no pump connected to be sure). Of course, that requires prior knowledge of which of the pins on top belong to the sender to check it before pulling the assembly out. Otherwise, you can only determine which pins you need to check after pulling the assembly out. If anyone is curious, it's pins 1 & 3 (if you're looking at the top of the bucket assembly, with the clip hook on top, #1 the top left and #3 is bottom left). Of course, I only know this right now since I have the service manual on hand.

 

I didn't get a chance to check the ohms. And yeah I could be wrong

but it is unlikely with my 2nd install being the stock and 3rd install being the same dw pump after I realized the fuel tank was empty and switched back to it since my tune is based on that pump.

And of course my 4th install is the denso gtr pump.. So it is very possible iam lucky on only my "even" install attempts. Either way... Like I mentioned earlier the gauge and car runs so smoothly right now...

I think i may be the only person here that has a dw pump installed so... Unless someone can attest to having 1 working.... I wanted to provide the community with what worked for me and iam just hoping my feed back and reference points can help people in the future who want to do this.... Because honestly I wouldn't have a great working car with out others sharing their experiences to me and helping me solve everything.

 

take a good look at the fuel pump and a good look at the float.... do you really think the float runs off of a constant 12 volt?

Now take a look at the fuel pump.. it is running off a 5volt switch with a ground line going to the float.

The pump controls the ohms.. and it uses power from the high voltage line from the float. You have to have both connected in or your fuel gauge won't work at all, because this setup makes the entire assembly including the fuel pump a single unit in power.

Now if the float is just a sender, it would not have a ground wire at all like how o2 sensors are setup.

 

The float is the sender, it sends information based on the resistance it creates.

Now you tell me, if the float does not run off a 12v, then then it would make even more sense to keep it separate from the pump, since the pump runs off 12v. In addition, the pump is separate because the ECU doesn’t run the pump nonstop, but does read the signal from the full sender all the time once the key is set to ON. Incidentally, the sender actually does run off constant 12v (well, with key to ON anyway).

Go to your Fit, turn off all music and make it as quiet as possible. Turn the key to ON without starting the engine. You should hear the pump priming the fuel line for the engine and then shut off. However, you’ll notice that it doesn’t affect the gas gauge. After the engine is actually started, the ECM varies the power to the pump as needed (low rpm/idle vs high rpm WOT has different fuel pressure flow requirements). You can’t share a constant on device like the sender with a variably powered device like the pump on the same circuit.

And another thing, it’s staring you in the face when you look at that picture you posted, the fuel sender and the pump are completely separate plugs/wires. The plug on top is a four pin plug, not three. Two for the pump, two for the floater.

As for your reference to the O2... it has four wires, all of which run back to the ECM. The sender has two, and both go back to the ECM. The fuel pump has two wires, but only one goes to the ECM, the other goes to ground. Neither the fuel pump, the sender share wires at all.

Again, my source is the service manual that I have in my hands. When testing for power to the floater, it wants you to check for battery voltage. When checking for the pump, it wants you to check for battery voltage within 2 seconds of turning the key. You can bypass the two seconds if you pull a relay and short the connection there (as instructed by the manual).

I get you want to be vindicated and all, but your arguments can’t work, again, look at the pictures you, yourself, are providing.

That said, you do appear a little too adamant about proving yourself, that you just refuse to listen... so, I'll stop post in this thread, there'd be no point in it.