Fit4Spl Stereo Install Log
I have a 1500W RMS class D amp running my subs, and a 400W RMS amp running my mids/highs. I have 0AWG wire under the hood with a better more audio oriented battery as well as 0AWG all the way to the amps in back. No issues what so ever. No light dimming nothing. You shouldn't need anything more than I have done I would imagine, however I am not sure on the amp rating of the GD3 alternator.
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 23
From: Kirkland, WA
The concept is simple, the wiring that comes factory with any car is barely the proper gauge for conducting, in some cases too small of wire is used. Example on the fit, the ground was a single 6awg wire from the battery to the sheet metal of the car. Not only is that ground weak but the size of the wire was too small. Think of it this way, when someone adds an audio system, you are now pulling more current through the factory wiring than was designed to handle. So by adding a second power run from the alternator directly to the battery there is less resistance of current flow. Additionally, by changing the ground to a larger gauge wire and grounding to the block of the motor this also lowers the resistance of current flow and improves the overall grounding of the car. These two alone can often eliminate light dimming from system current drain. The addition of a better battery is just like adding performance brakes to a car, where the factory will work, the performance version is better suited for the needs of the driver. In the batteries case, this battery is not just larger in output and performance it is also designed for audio use so if in a competition format you have to run without your car on, this battery will out perform the factory lead acid battery by a mile.
What you are seeing in my pictures is a single 0awg strand from the negative terminal of the battery to the block of the motor. Additionally another single strand of 0awg from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. The other pieces you see are going to and from a 150amp circuit breaker, some people use a fuse with fuse holder. The total cost for my upgrade process which includes running 0 awg from the front battery to the rear was $60 for the wire, $75 for the battery. Course I got some deals on both my items but the battery can be had on ebay for $109, and the wire you can get here; http://www.audiosavings.com/products...15M-BLACK.aspx 22ft for under $50 you might be able to also contact this company and get a few more than 22ft since I used near 25ft total to do all of my wiring.
Overall you aren't going to physically see much in the way of the improvement other than if your lights are dimming now, this may eliminate that issue. What you are not seeing is the improvement of efficiency of your electrical system. Where the current flow is less restricted letting your amplifiers pull the current needed with less stress, thus also meaning they will not heat up as fast. And in effect they will then be performing better and more efficiently using the power they require to operate. Hopefully that answers your question, and anyone else who was contemplating doing this upgrade, it is well worth the effort and minimal costs.
What you are seeing in my pictures is a single 0awg strand from the negative terminal of the battery to the block of the motor. Additionally another single strand of 0awg from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. The other pieces you see are going to and from a 150amp circuit breaker, some people use a fuse with fuse holder. The total cost for my upgrade process which includes running 0 awg from the front battery to the rear was $60 for the wire, $75 for the battery. Course I got some deals on both my items but the battery can be had on ebay for $109, and the wire you can get here; http://www.audiosavings.com/products...15M-BLACK.aspx 22ft for under $50 you might be able to also contact this company and get a few more than 22ft since I used near 25ft total to do all of my wiring.
Overall you aren't going to physically see much in the way of the improvement other than if your lights are dimming now, this may eliminate that issue. What you are not seeing is the improvement of efficiency of your electrical system. Where the current flow is less restricted letting your amplifiers pull the current needed with less stress, thus also meaning they will not heat up as fast. And in effect they will then be performing better and more efficiently using the power they require to operate. Hopefully that answers your question, and anyone else who was contemplating doing this upgrade, it is well worth the effort and minimal costs.
Great job on your build and on your documenting it.
We just bought a 2009 Fit Sport last weekend and are new to the club
We love the car. I am thinking of adding a few audio upgrades maybe you can help advise a bit, please: simple coaxial upgrades in the doors, for under $100/pr...suggestions? We have the Nav system and are not ready to replace the head unit, yet.
You mentioned in the quoted post above about both the factory ground wire and chassis ground location being inadaquate [one was too small, the other simply not a good ground]. I may add something like a small amp and box in the future....if at all [yes, I messed with audio systems in high school and college, so I am your basic novice :] what are your thoughts on adding a better [thicker] ground strap from the neg terminal on the batt to the engine block with just the upgraded coaxial door speakers and the small bass box[~100watts small]? Or just to the stock system?
How/where on the engine did you mount the ground strap? Got pics
We are a new family, on a budget, and the car will have our newborn in it...but until then, I would not mind a little bit of clarity to the audio in our new Fit
Thanks!!!!
Cheers!!!
I have always liked the alpine coaxials for cheap upgrades so something like this would be perfect for what your budget is. ALPINE SPR-60 6.5" 2-WAY CAR AUDIO COAXIAL SPEAKERS (PAIR) Alpine SPR60 | eBay
As for the grounding, in your case since you won't be doing a huge upgrade in power the factory wiring should be fine, however if you want to upgrade it, you can do so with a small amount of 4 gauge wire and some ring terminals. If you look through my log you should find the BIG 3 upgrade photos, that went through two phases, 4 gauge wire then it was switched to 0 gauge wire. Those show where it is grounded to the block. The wire upgrade shouldn't cost more than $20 for what you would be doing since it is simply the ground upgrade alone.
As for the grounding, in your case since you won't be doing a huge upgrade in power the factory wiring should be fine, however if you want to upgrade it, you can do so with a small amount of 4 gauge wire and some ring terminals. If you look through my log you should find the BIG 3 upgrade photos, that went through two phases, 4 gauge wire then it was switched to 0 gauge wire. Those show where it is grounded to the block. The wire upgrade shouldn't cost more than $20 for what you would be doing since it is simply the ground upgrade alone.
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 23
From: Kirkland, WA
Hey man, thanks for the reply!!
I saw the pics, and I understand the idea of the big3...I did that back with my mustang and rabbit project cars.
I was just meaning: where/how exactly on the block of the engine did you attach the ring terminal? Was it a tapped and threaded hole that you found a suitable bolt to attach it to?
The Fit is great, we would like for it to be our long term car, say the next 6-10 years. So, lengevity is what I am after...and if the stock ground is insufficient, I would like to upgrade that part [wth the 4awg wire, thanks!] and get the system to work more efficiently. If that makes sense...
Have the system have less resistance, perhaps less heat, just to so that it is slightly overbuilt/underworked and not underbuilt/overworked
I figure if you over build, then you will under worry
I saw the pics, and I understand the idea of the big3...I did that back with my mustang and rabbit project cars.
I was just meaning: where/how exactly on the block of the engine did you attach the ring terminal? Was it a tapped and threaded hole that you found a suitable bolt to attach it to?
The Fit is great, we would like for it to be our long term car, say the next 6-10 years. So, lengevity is what I am after...and if the stock ground is insufficient, I would like to upgrade that part [wth the 4awg wire, thanks!] and get the system to work more efficiently. If that makes sense...
Have the system have less resistance, perhaps less heat, just to so that it is slightly overbuilt/underworked and not underbuilt/overworked
I figure if you over build, then you will under worry
Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 4,295
From: Wandering around.
2009 Used Honda Fit Audio Features - Honda Certified Used Cars
160.
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 23
From: Kirkland, WA
have you tried... oh, i dunno... the Honda website?
2009 Used Honda Fit Audio Features - Honda Certified Used Cars
160.
2009 Used Honda Fit Audio Features - Honda Certified Used Cars
160.
The fit sport has 6 speakers...(2)3/4" tweeters, (4)6.5" door speakers.
So....is that 15 watts per tweeter, 32.5 watts per door speaker...or 10 watts per tweeter and 35 watts per door speaker or....etc etc etc.
I wanted the specification of the output of the head unit per each channel, sorry, should have been clearer
also, looking for the speaker mouting depth, too lol
Thanks for all the replies!!!!!
So while my car was in the shop for near a month I made a new enclosure. I also made a big math error on the width. Meh we are all human, so instead of just junking it, I decided to recycle it and make a newer box with a 6" aero port.
Here is what the box started out as.
And here are some of the steps in recycling it to a new enclosure.
And here it is prior to being loaded in the car.
And here it is in the hatch.
The low bass response is much greater with this box. Here is a quick video I did in the driveway, I may do more just gotta find a spot where I don't piss off all the neighbors.
New Aero Box - YouTube
Here is what the box started out as.
And here are some of the steps in recycling it to a new enclosure.
And here it is prior to being loaded in the car.
And here it is in the hatch.
The low bass response is much greater with this box. Here is a quick video I did in the driveway, I may do more just gotta find a spot where I don't piss off all the neighbors.
New Aero Box - YouTube
Ok the alpha damp is on the roof. Spent about 4 hours earlier today doing it from start to finish. Posted my review on some audio sites then slept for 2 hours, cause i was tired! LOL Anyway here are the photos and the last video which you can compare to my New Aero Box video for the flexing difference.
Before Alpha Damp
New Aero Box - YouTube
After Alpha Damp
Alpha Damp Final video with bass test - YouTube
Before Alpha Damp
New Aero Box - YouTube
After Alpha Damp
Alpha Damp Final video with bass test - YouTube
So I had to move my amps to install my rear Clazzio seat covers, so for now I just came up with this, they are mounted to two strips of MDF carpeted to match which are mounted to the sub box. I may do something more later but for now this was fairly quick to do.
