Wow, is your battery terminal on your picture above a custom made one?
Very Nice !!!
Do you machine it your self or you have some machine shop do it for you?

I also just change my battery terminal,
I bought 2 Rockford Fosgate Battery Terminal,
the plan was to change both the positive and negative one,
but then in the end I decide to change only the Negative Terminal,
because I also had the same idea as yours, that is to connect the
the Rockford Fosgate Positive Battery terminal to the factory stock positive terminal using a very short length of 0AWG wire, but then
it mean the stock positive battery terminal will be dangling in the free air.
How about you?
did you do something to support the stock positive factory terminal with a bracket,
or it just being hold by that 0awg cable?
Also since your battery is not factory, you have more space for the 0awg cable between your new terminal and your factory terminal.
while I am still using factory standard battery so if I decide to do like yours,
my factory stock positive terminal will be hanging even further back nearer to the airbox.
But looking at yours really temp me to do just like yours,...
after all I already bought the rockford battery terminal,
and now, it also looks funny because my negative already have rockford battery terminal, while my positive still stock... (unbalance look)...

I also had done my big 3 wiring (for ground only),
but I had not do the positive (from alternator to battery),
cause the ring terminal that came with the Audio Technix kit
is way too big to fit on the alternator terminal...
especially it have to fit ONTOP of the factory wire....
so I just bought a Monster Cable Crimpless Ring Terminal...
hope it can fit...
The other thing that I am not sure is where to put the fuse block for this
positive side of the big 3 wiring...
I want it to be as close as possible to the alternator,
but I also don't see where I can hang this fuse box (included in the audio technix big 3 kit)...
oh by the way, thanks for telling me about the Audio Technix big 3 kit,
those kit are good value for the money.
Their 0 gauge wire is also very thick that I had to trim just a little bit of the wire so it can fit into Rockford Fosgate Battery terminal !!!

 

This is who made my terminals. ToolMaker Metal Workz Online Store - Shop Home

The factory harness that used to sit on top of the battery is tucked away and I have a 0awg lead that attaches to it ran to the battery (the top wire on the positive terminal). I get all my 0awg lugs locally, but I can say the 5/16 hole lugs seem to work the best.

As for the fuse holder it is made from steel plate I bought at home depot, there was another fit audio guy on diyma whom I copied his idea, it is basically a L bracket that is attached to the battery tray, the metal tray not the plastic one that comes with the factory battery, I tossed that. Here is a link to his install, and it shows the bracket made for a fuse holder. 09 Honda Fit Install - DIYMA Car Audio Forum

 

Hi,
I understand about your fuse holder with that bracket,
you know why ?
because I also copy the same design as you and that guy from DIYMA,
for my own fuse holder, to protect the line from battery to my yet to be installed rockford powered sub hehehe but instead of using a solid plate like yours, mine is not that good because I am using that
standard thin long bracket bent to L shaped... perhaps when I have free time in the future I will buy the steel plate like you at home depot and buy a table clamp so I can bend the steel plate...

Yeah, I still have so much work to do tomorrow...
my finger are all hurting now from opening those panel and crimping etc etc... haven't done
this kind of work for a long time,... and this is my first real car audio install too...
so it is really stressing also when I try to open those plastic panel, worry that I might broke the clip...
now,
the fuse holder that I am talking about is not the one from the battery to the amplifier,
but I plan to install another fuse holder for the Big 3 wiring line from Alternator to battery...
I know you don't use fuse for this extra line,
but I think the only way to run the line is on top of the radiator just like you did,
this also mean,
if my car (knock on wood) involved in a frond end accident,
that direct 0 gauge wire from the alternator will most likely CUT and touch
with some metal part (engine block/chasis), and if the motor is still running, it will create a big spark...
so if I install the positive line of the big 3 wiring, I will surely install a fuse as close to the alternator as possible...
but at this moment it seemed impossible to mount a fuse holder near the alternator that is the second reason why I have not put my positive big 3 wiring line... the first reason is the terminal that came with the kit is too big to fit on top of the factory terminal (at the alternator terminal)...
I think you were able to put your terminal because as you said, you use the 5/16 size terminal...
(my monster crimpless terminal also had small head design, althoug I am not sure the size of it, especially since I am used to metric size and not use to inches size yet hahaha,... but I think my monster have around 1.2cm diameter head)...
anyway, tomorrow I will open the hood again and try to find a place to safely mounted (and solidly mounted) a fuse terminal as close to the alternator as possible..., if I still can not find a good place... well that mean
my audiotechnix big 3 "positive line"
and my new monster crimpless terminal will be another things stuck in my spare parts boxes collecting dust, along with that Rockford positive battery terminal hahaha

 

Hi,
I understand that your factory harness is tucked away behind the battery,
but do you have anything holding it steady or it just hang with the
0AWG wire the only thing that holding it ?
I also want to do like this but I worry after several thousand miles,
the cable might break do to vibration and resulting in sudden disconnect of the factory positive harness...
The only think that might be strong enough is
if I machine a custom plate connecting the factory harness terminal bolt
with my rockford battery terminal but this require custom machine parts...
this custom plate will act as a bus bar and also as a mounting...
actually this is similar to what you had before you change to the new battery terminal,
but I had to make my bus bar stronger/thicker because I am using the stock battery and the factory wire will be hanging in mid air further back from the battery...
while wit you, since you had non factory battery, the last time your factory
positive harness looks to still resting on the top plastic part of your battery,thus giving extra support...
...
for this one, it might be too much custom work to do...
I really don't know whether I want to pursue this just so I have match
positive and negative battery terminal hahaha

 

Prime-Line Stainless Steel Door Guard Plate-U 9589 at The Home Depot



I just search HomeDepot website and I think this look like a great bracket for the fuse holder , all I need is to cut one side of it and drill some holes ..
when you build your bracket do you take out the factory metal battery tray out from the chassis to measure the spacing between the mounting holes, or you just measure it?

if I am not mistaken, you actually took out the metal battery tray, right?
at first I want to take out this factory battery tray but then the lower 2 bolt is kinda hard to reach...
oh, you said you had to jack up the car right?

 

Good work. I had some subs in my car for about a year and had the power wire running under the car zip tied to the brake lines running to the back. This lasted until about two weeks ago when this finally snapped and left me dragging my power cable everywhere I went. I went to the internet to find out where I can run this cable and found out a lot when I came across your post. Needless to say, I am in the middle of the Big3 and running my wiring where it should be instead of where it shouldn't have been. I may take some pics and throw together another install guide like yours. Much thanks.

 

New high legal on the dash SPL reading this weekend, and I think I may have a little more I can squeeze out of the car still maybe breaking that 149 barrier!

 

Recent demo video from a local show, maybe someday I can get off my butt and do a nice video of the car playing, just been real busy lately.

 

Hi Fit4Spl,
I plan to do Roof Sound Proofing with CLD Tiles soon,
and from the pictures above, I see that you were able to remove the Headliner without removing the A Pillar and B Pillar Plastic Trim !
Is this correct?

Cause from the factory manual, they suggest that I need to remove the A and B Pillar...

Could you kindly make a summary on which trim needed to be take out before I can remove the entire Headliner?

Thanks

 

Hope this write up helps folks still, I have moved on from the Fit to something well MORE to say the least.

But if anyone needs specific help or questions that are NOT answered here you can email me at all4spl@gmail.com

My new ride is below.

 

Going to email you a few questions, maybe you can post the answers here, who knows.

 

Hi Fit4Spl,


How are you?


I just sent you an email.



Please kindly guide me on the best way to screw/secure/bolt the power amp to the back of the rear seat of the Honda Fit like you had done on the picture below on your Honda Fit before you move your amp to the spare tire location.


Thanks so much.