First and foremost Neither Fitfreak.net nor I am responsible if you screw up your car trying to install anything as detailed in this post. Do so at your own risk, however feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

FYI - I have a goal in mind for my car, it's simplistic while still putting out plenty of bass for my musical tastes. So you might not see "competition" quality installation procedures but you will not see anything unsafe, I am very carefull with every install I do.

Well today I installed the Headunit, Alpine CDA-9835, the 4awg power wire, both sets of RCA's, speaker wire runs, and the remote lead. The headunit install was flawless, the Metra Kit required NO modification at all. I uninstalled the USB factory lead as I am going to sell that item on ebay $$. And I installed my cable for my iPod from my Alpine and ran it through the same hole the USB cable was in. I did not take any pictures of the installation process as it seems most here know it already. However if anyone has any questions please just ask, the H/U was quick and easy it took longer to setup the kit than to remove the stock unit and install my Alpine.

I did however take pics of the power wire as I could not find a good shot of anyone finding a way to run it in through a factory harness or empty grommet. Well I searched for about 30mins and I found a suitable area to go through. Here are a couple pictures of the power wire.

This is directly above the gas pedal area.


And here is a picture of it in the engine bay.


Here is a picture of under the dash as it comes down.


Then ran it down the driver side of the car towards the hatch area.


Heres a couple more shots of the power wire.




I then ran my RCA's, speaker leads and remote lead down the center of the car.





I also laid down a layer of Dynamat Extreme Liner, this was left over from my wife's SQ stash, this stuff is heavy as it has a layer of lead in it. I however was getting very tired, hungry and developed a migrane so I neglected to take pictures of it however it was very uneventful as far as what it looks like. I am hoping it will quiet down the car's road noise a bit.

Goal for tomorrow is to install my JBL Components upfront, both amps and my subs in their enclosure. I will update this thread as I keep going.

 

your going to have such a clean install.. Orlando FL eh? my sister lives there.. interested in helping me doing mine? lol

 

The best part of this is that after installing car audio in many many different kinds of cars I can say this. The Fit is amazing, the paneling and other interior parts come out with ease, you don't need a rocket science degree to figure it out. The engineers who designed the Fit's interior were really on the money!

 

Today's work, since it's mothers day I had to cut short my time today so I did the sub amp install, sub box(no pix I'll post some later), and the circuit breaker under the hood. The way I installed the breaker is actually the same custom bracket I made for my VW GTI, but I bent it so I could mount it to the car. As you will see that presented a small issue with one of the connectors but it was quickly resolved with some hot glue, I will be putting a dab of weather resistant silicone on the area once I obtain some. On to the pictures!

Here is the breaker just after putting it in and hot gluing the screw that it mounts with.


Next the same area with the cable.


Here it is all tightened up.


An upper view of the breaker.


And finally, the sub amp mounted and you can see the way I will be putting in the mids/highs amp as its sitting where I will be mounting it. Yes I still have full function of the seats, and the use of the brackets to mount my child's car seat.


That's it for today, the mirror on my windshield is NOT liking me so far, going to need to figure out how to either stabilize it or deaden the roof.

 

Here is a couple quick shots of the subs, with the seats up. The bottom board is going to be carpeted and the box will be secured to it.

 

your cables came out nicely out of that part where the seats fold. i really like it

 

Looks great--Very neat and clean

I just want one 10" with a small amp...come install that for me. Thanks!

 

I bet that's some serious bass with those two subs. I upgraded the head unit and all coax's in mine about four months ago - made a huge difference. I've thought about putting in a sub but I kinda don't want to mess with anything at this point.

 

You don't have to lose a lot of space or do a full blown install to have some bass added. These got popular in the late 90's around 98-99 but are still made and work very well I might add.

BAZOOKA Mobile Audio - BTA850FH - 50W 8" Powered Tube - Complete Bass Solution with Factory Interface Harness included.

So if you want to conserve some space but still get a little bit of the low end, you could easily put one of these in and still retain a good portion of your space in the hatch area.

 

Ok after work even as tired as I was I was hell bent on getting at least one door done and the 4 ch JBL amp installed. I took good pictures of the doors removal and speaker removal and install. However I got really tired at the end and didn't photo the amp which I will this weekend. On to the pictures!

Door Removal, First is this panel it simply prys off, just be careful it is very flexible so it shouldn't tear or break on you.



Next here is the door panel with that piece removed exposing the wires for locks/windows and the holding screw.



Now other than the snap in pins around the door panel this is the only screw holding it to the door itself.



Next we have the wiring harness for the locks/windows, its a standard push tab clip type of harness.



After that you only have the door pull itself which is held in by one screw.



After you remove this screw you pass the entire door pull through the door panel you can leave it hanging while doing the speaker install.



You can then pop the panel off the door and you will expose the factory speaker.



It takes one philips screw to remove to get it out, you then lift up as the speakers body plastic holds it in with groves.



After that you unsnap the speaker wire clip, and remove the speaker exposing the hole in the door.



Most speakers will need the metal bent inward slightly to allow them to pass if they have a big magnet structure like mine do shown here.



Above you can also see the mounting ring this is to make sure the speaker doesn't hit the glass of the window when rolled down. To remove the stock tweeter, you only need either a small flat head screw driver or a 90degree angle pick tool, once popped out it looks like this.



Then I mounted my JBL tweeter to the stock mount with some hot glue, this will hold just fine as the tweeter is very light and doesn't need a ton of support.



Overall again the doors where very easy to install, the tweeters where a snap and the only hard part was running the wire through the door into the cabin for the midbass. This was done with a metal coat hanger and a lot of pushing, careful I put a small bend at the end of the coat hanger so it cannot cut open any of the other wiring.

The improvement is as I expected, amazing. I will post pictures of the other amp and wiring when I get a chance this weekend. I will be doing the other door tomorrow after work. And then putting coaxials in the rear doors mainly for my daughter to listen to.

 

Very nice. This is the first (FitFreak) documented true component install I've seen where someone explained how they re-routed the tweeter/midbass speaker wire to the appropriate locations. I didn't have the patience for that...props to you...I'm sure it sounds sweet especially with that aftermarket amp.

 

Thanks, I tried to document the very important steps, things like popping the door panel off the door itself is kinda self explanatory. However if anyone has any questions they can PM me as I have learned this car pretty quick as far as taking it apart is concerned. Also again I can't compliment Honda more on this car, the wiring running through the rubber tube from the door to the cabin wasn't too bad. They designed it so that there's actually a lot of room between the door and the cabin, and it was also nice of them to design the seals for each end of that rubber tube for easy removal and installation. I was able to pull each end out and then reinsert it just like it was without any real difficulty.

Overall this car is pretty easy to install in, and the longest parts where doing the wiring not the removal of car parts or installation of the speakers themselves.

 

Ok today I got the passenger side components installed and they were even easier probably due to me doing the driver door first. I took some shots today of things I didn't yesterday such as what the wiring looks like mid wire run, so lets get to those pics!

We start off with what the coat hanger looks like before running the wire, again put a bend at the tip so as to not have the coat hanger catch and cut other wires in the bundle. Also you want to tape down about 3-4 inches cause the wire will probably slide a little but it should hold.



Now lets look at the rubber tube the wires run through in the door after being removed at each end.



And finally lets take a look at the wire just after ran through the tube, I found that it was much easier due to the shape of this tube to run the wire from the top down.



The wire then goes into the cabin, lets see how that looks from the passenger side.



The rest was again just as the driver side, so lets take a look at my wiring, its not 100% done but I got it a bit cleaned up and will be doing more to get it where I want it.



And as above you can see part of th 4 channel amp, here is a better pic of the amp.



That's it for today, only my rear door speakers remain to put in, again mostly for people in the back to listen to including my daughter.

As I spoke about a tool I used earlier I wanted to post a picture of the kit I use for A LOT of work I do with cars and etc, this thing is worth its weight in gold, if you can find a kit like this one, BUY IT.

 

Very Nice! If you decide to do any deadening, can you also post pictures of that. Also, I noticed just adding one sub and changing the head unit made a lot of noticeable resonances...

Are there any problem spots you noticed after listening to a few tracks?
If so, could you post where and how you fixed them.

Thanks,

 

Did you have to do any electrical upgrades?

 

No electrical upgrades to the car yet, I plan to add a high performance audio battery under the hood, and once they are available and I can budget it, a high output alternator.

 

Wow, no electrical upgrades, added two amps, and everything is running fine?

 

Yup, no light dimming on bass hits, nothing.

 

brilliant! great work and really nice write-up! thanks for taking the time!!

 

Great job and thanks for posting pics! I was wondering if you could comment on where you applied the Dynamat and how much of a difference it made? Are you planning on applying it to the doors? I have an aftermarket system too but I am toying with the idea of adding sound deadener to the doors and the hatch floor. I wasn't too eager to take the carpet out to do the cabin floor but I just might if it would make a huge difference. Thanks.