I have a ‘13 Fit sport with Koni orange and Eibach springs, progressive rear sway bar and sticky summer tires 205-55-16. It has been handling like a go cart since installed 3 years or so ago. Few weeks ago installed new Koni front struts and Toyo shock tower mounts in front and it has been a sloppy mess ever since. Plus there’s all sorts of clanging in the suspension now. Anyone have any ideas of how to fix?

I’m thinking at 116k miles it needs new rubber pads for where the springs meet the struts and possibly a different brand of shock tower mounts? Any ideas? I want my tight handling Fit back!

thanks in advance for input

 

-check end links

-make sure camber bolts are tight

-could be the top mounts as you suggested

-unlikely ... but .... check the torque rod / engine mount.... did that break? (mine did)

 

thanks for the suggestions, I’ll look at those items.
i ordered new KYB top mounts, MOOG sway bar links and new rubber pads for where springs meet front struts and hoping this solves it bc it is handling super sloppy right now.

any other suggestions would be helpful while we’re in there. I’m not convinced these are the solutions after looking at an exploited view diagram of the front suspension. A lot of pieces in there but don’t want to change everything when the solution could be simple.

 

So, the other week I decided to replace my struts/shocks and springs because for a couple of months it had been clanking on turns, bumps, farting, sneezes, you name it.

From the moment I started I found out exactly why it was... the very top nut, that holds the strut tower to the housing, had backed itself out all the way to the end of the threads.

Spent almost $600 on parts (Koni Orange plus Swift) all because of a freaking loose nut. Well, since I had the parts, I said fuck it and installed them anyway.

I also had the sway bar links go bad, I didn't use MOOG, as I didn't know about it until AFTER I bought and installed the parts, c'est la vie. Luckily, I did that replacement last year, so it hadn't rusted too badly when I swapped the strut tower. God, I hate dealing with Allen keys while removing nuts.

So yea... if there's clanking immediately after the install, chances are good something wasn't tightened down. As much as I would love to recommend using an impact tool to tighten down the nuts for the top of the strut and the sway bar links... if they start spinning, the impact is only going to cause them to wear down ever so slightly sooner, without tightening it.

What I had ended up doing was using a jack to push the axle up into the car, just enough to compress the springs a little. Even though there's a ball bearing collar near the top, overall there's enough force on the strut tower to help with tightening the nut most of the way. You'll still need the Allen key near the end, but at least most of spinning the nut down is done.

 

top nut, I did not think of that one

what if that is the issue OP is having as well. please report back!

 

Could be worth it to check... save some $$$.

 

Waiting for new KYB strut mounts, Moog sway bar links and rubber pads for bottom of springs to arrive. Hope one of those bc all bolts are tight

 

you're gonna love the hell out of the moog problem solver end links. no more dealing with stupid allen keys ever again!


(tip, get a zerk fitting grease gun ready. might as well grease those things, the same day you install em)

 

New KYB strut mounts, Moog sway bar links and rubber pads for front springs and it is tight as hell and back to go cart feel! Love it, like a slot car and quiet too! Thanks for all the info and input!

 

YAY! glad its all sorted out.

 

bonus .... look up "rigid collars" to furthermore that go-kart feel. thank me later =)

 

I see you did a how to thread , that’s cool. The collars made a huge improvement ? It’s noticeable difference?

 

oh yeah, most def a noticeable improvement. its such an inexpensive mod, easy ish install, with high reward.

check out this quick youtube vid, it really does a good job explaining it all:

 

No need to use a Jack to push the wheel up, to tighten the top nut. The car is already in position just sitting there, weight on wheels. The top nut should only be torqued to 33flbs.

 

On some cars I don't use a spring compressor for struts. I take the top nut off both sides. The weight of the car is keeps the spring in place. Then I center jack the front of the car up which unloads the springs. Some cars it completely unloads the springs. Some if doesn't and I have to use a compressor to finish it.