The place I'm using has a lifetime warranty against leaks and rust and I too am planning on having this car a long time. The shop has been around a long time and specializes in custom installs -- even here in rainy Seattle. I know Teslas that have this rack system on them.

I use my rack year round and worry more about paint and window gutter seam damage with the clips than this permanent system but I get that others don't like anyone drilling into their car.

 

That sounds good, since you would use the rack often.

 

Here are some pictures of the rack system. I'm happy with the look and the install.

 

Very nice. Know I see what the permanent installation is. What does it look like inside the car? How about e cost? Is that all Thule?

 

There is another thread on the site that I posted these to already, but in case you're not following that one, here are the pics of the install.

 

Thanks. The car is unchanged inside, they do not go into the headliner -- they use flare nuts. Rack Attack has a helpful video to show the process on their website. Cost was not cheap, $831 not including tax (I rec'd a 10% discount on parts [not labor]), but I paid more than that for the factory rack option plus the cross bars on my last car. Yes, all Thule.

 

In this pic it looks like the tracks are each parallel with the roof seems but not parallel with each other. Do I have that right?

Also, it would be nice if we could see it from a higher vantage and with the rack removed.

And thanks very much for sharing the pics! It looks great!


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Watch this video:

http://www.rackattack.com/player/rac...m-rack-install









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That's great! I wish I had more need for a roof rack. Maybe I'll get a kayak.

 

I can chime in on this from experience. I am using the yakima roof system with the 2013 clips. The passenger side rear part of the roof is weak. I use the racks but had to do a lot of fitting to find the right spread. There are some imperfections on the roof area on the rear from using to much pressure in the racks. It is only noticing everyone if you sight down the roof but none the less it is still warped. Would it have happened had I not over tightened my rack? Good question. A different set of clips could very well do the job but without a selection of them to try it is fruitless. Other option would be some type of support under the foot to spread the load.

Having said that, I do use mine to carry my kayaks. Not recommending others do it but we all make our choices.

To address your comment about structure strength, you are correct they do not go backwards but in the effort to strengthen the chassis frame area, the placement of structures compromised the area the foot of the racks sits on. The roof most certainly is stronger and weight is not the problem.

 

That is a nice looking permanent install!

 

When putting the shark fin antennas on our Fits, applying a bit of pressure pushed the roof down very easily. Getting good MPG requires less weight. Just look at the carpeting and floor mats. This is a light car. I think that RackAttack is a good approach, since the weight is spread out. Still, I wouldn't load it up with sheets of 3/4" plywood.

 

If properly situated the roof is plenty strong, hence the rollover test. But getting a rack system attached to the proper frame members is the issue. Basically the removable rack systems rely on support by sheet metal.

 

Thanks for the pics. This looks to be a great alternative and I would have pursued this avenue had I known. Do you have a cost on the system?

 

Thanks. You are correct, the tracks are not parallel, they follow the gutter so the front feet are farther apart than the rear ones. So, if I move the feet within the tracks (slide up or down the track), I will have to adjust where the crossbar sits on the feet. Though I don't really anticipate moving the feet right now.

Thanks, they did a nice job.

 

Thanks. It was $831 installed including the locks but not not tax (I rec'd a 10% discount on parts [not labor]). They do guarantee the system for life, so that is peace of mind.

 

Excellent! As I said earlier in this thread that's the way I was thinking it ought to be done. So that means also that the rack towers are slightly askew or twisted in relation to each other. So I take it that this is not a problem with the rack system you have. There is enough play to allow this slight twist? So now that you see it on your car do you feel that this orientation is the best? Is that how I should do it on my car? Or would you say the other way, is better? (see pic below)

Here is an example of the other way to do it with the tacks parallel to each other:




Thanks very much for sharing your experience. I'm finding this very helpful and I can't wait now to install my tracks!



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That is not a bad price at all since you can easily get into $600 with removable racks.

 

So true, the rack parts can be costly on their own. The place I went to was good about matching an online sale from another vendor so that was helpful.

 

The towers don't seem askew or twisted from what I can tell. If they are it must be ever so slightly. I will put on my bike rack tomorrow and let you know if I have any problems, but I don't foresee that there will be. They also used triangular hardware for the feet (I don't know the part numbers) that was not part of the normal kit to allow for easier movement along the rails if I decide to move the bars.

I don't know if having the bars parallel would work so well with the sunroof. I know that the place that I went to is one of the few installers in all of Seattle and that they do a bucket load of installs so I trust their judgment. Even when I called REI to see if REI did installs they recommended this place (plus I've used them in the past for other racks but not for a permanent install). I think they know what they're doing. I also personally like the visual of the track following the gutter over the more discernible change in distance from the gutter as in the pic with the red Fit. Though any rack that holds a bicycle is a good rack in my book .