Please delete this thread

 

Its a CAN-Bus error which is causing your FIT to stall. You need to get a capacitor retrofit kit, or better yet get a better HID kit meant for the Honda Fit. I didn't bother with this upgrade to cost and compatibility issues.

 

Did you remove the DRL fuse? If not that's why it's stalling.

I started with HID but had problems with the bulb going off after a few months and maybe even one ballast. I just bought an LED bulb online and loving it! Instant on and very crisp bright light as good as halogen and comfortable to HID.

 

there are many ppl experience thsi problem already
you need to find proper grounding for the ballast.

 

Which LEDs did you decide to go with? Im thinking about going LED as well.

 

LED bulbs for the H4 headlights suck. Went through four different brands. They all suck. Spent over $400 on different brands on the "right" Cree LEDs to use for the right amount of lumens. They all sucked.

Nice crisp white, instant on, lovely color when DRL fuse was still in. But at night they sucked bad. Worse than halogen. Nice "bright" color on the ground, but horrible ugly embarrassing coverage and no distance to them. Can't even light up signs down the road. Worse than halogen.

Aimed those LEDs up and was somewhat better but I could tell I was blinding the crap out of other people. Pedestrians were giving me the stink eye. They sure "turn" heads.


Gave up on LEDs. Got HID, retrofitted projectors, threw in osram CBIs, and blew those crappy LED h4 away. Took our DRL fuse so the HIDs don't fire up during the day, installed LED xb strips and halos, then wired them to a Fuse extender with a SPDT relay, plugged that back into the DRL fuse slot, and now using the xb strips as DRL. They turn on during day, HIDS off. When headlight HIDs on, xb LED strips turn off. Way better than wiring LED DRL to the ACC fuse .

Also, NO engine stalling. NEVER STALLED ONCE. Use a proper ground. If the bolt you used is causing stall, use another grounding bolt. Use one with metal exposed on the chassis. Tighten it up hard. If you are experiencing stalling, chances are your HID isn't properly grounded.

Yes I am using HID ballasts and relays. Only thing that sucked about retrofit is aiming the projectors.

Otherwise I'll say again. Those LED headlight bulbs SUCK. And if you're stalling, check your HID grounds again.

 

Thanks for the detailed write up. I was thinking about LEDs but going to leave it alone for now.

Any chance we get pics?

 

I made a how-to thread on it somewhere in this subforum. There's a lot of information from other guys here that have retrofitted. I don't have pics of the exact grounding points I used because I don't want to take off my bumper again just to take pics, but I've mentioned a couple times which bolts I'm using, and they shouldn't be too difficult to find.

I'm assuming the bolts are similar to other fits, but on my US fit:

Passenger side
I used the bolt next to wiper fluid reservoir to hold my ballast up. Bolt top right of passenger headlight, which is also near the same bolt used to remove the passenger headlight, for ground.

Driver side
Bolt under driver side headlight with all the grounding wires leading to it- I used it for driver side ground. The hole next to it, I used to hold my ballast up. There's a bolt right above that where I held my ballast, I used to hold the relay in place.

I put them that way figuring if there's condensation or water, they will flow down and away from the circuitry. I also made a little "loop" on the harness wires for that purpose - kinda like how they tell u to form little loops or U in electrical wires for fish tanks so condensation can form and drip, so they don't reach the outlet.


Anyway, in regards to the crappy LEDs I bought and tried and regretted, I've gotten the ones recommended here, the alibaba ones, the ebay ones, the genesee (sp?) from Amazon. I didn't get the ones with a bunch of SMDs because I know those aren't enough to generate adequate lumens, so I specifically got the more expensive LED types that had the big Cree single or dual SMD, you know the kinds they advertised pumping out 3400 or so lumens (1400-1700 each). But realistically in actual use they're probably a hundred or two lumens less than standard halogen bulbs.

I don't regret retrofitting and putting osram bulbs in my projectors. I regret spending the money and not being able to get refunds on some of the LED crap lights I got. Now, my HIDs have the pretty purple / blue rainbow effect cutoff, throws light down the freeway pretty far, doesn't blind people never been high beamed, has great wide coverage on the 10 freeway in those 5 am commutes to work I have (they literally can cover the carpool lane and slow lane on the 5 lanes we have on the 10 fwy when I'm driving in the middle), and they're bright enough to be equivalent to some bmws and benz.

The only thing that's brighter than my retros I've seen so far on my commutes are the new LED headlights from Acura on the MDX and TLX I've driven next to. Those are really bright and not even blinding at all. I'm really amazed at those.

I'm only afraid to high beam because the retros and osrams are stupidly bright. Done it a couple times on the freeway to show the gf and she's blown away how much the fwy signs lit up.

 

If i have another set of headlights, I'd probably get a pair of the FX-R projectors and try to retrofit them in. I think they may be a little too big, but I have a gut feeling they're way better than the d2s 3.0s

 

Would you mind posting which LEDs so others don't waste their money too? I'm using this btw
http://m.ebay.com/itm/331320311937?txnId=1059538536014


I think I know what you mean though. I like how much output my HIDs had but just had trouble with ballast or bulbs going out. I went back to halogen and then got the 3000 lumens LED ones, though that's for high and like 2000 lumens for lows only. LED bulbs seem to light mainly in the front (80%) and not so much sides (20%) but that's enough for me. I prefer that compared to halogen and love the look. I think LED bulbs would look better if we had projectors though. Then again would be better if we had them stock.

 

i've had some good experiences with LED kits on my fiancee's mazda 3
which leds have you tried?

 

I'm just using the stock halogens, and they dim noticeably when just turning the steering wheel... I forget if this car has electric power assisted steering... would seem so. I don't see RPMs dip when turning either, so it doesnt seem like it's got a mechanical pump to drive power steering.

 

I put in a XenonDepot 3500K HID kit into the fog light housings and adjusted them to the lowest height and they have helped dramatically. I can actually see the road ahead of me and I had a friend drive the car while I drove theirs coming toward each other and there wasn't any blinding. I also had no issues with the car stalling or anything.

I will wait until a factory or aftermarket projector headlight meant for LHD becomes available before putting HIDs into the headlights as I don't want to crack open my OEM headlights. I'm afraid I'll have problems with condensation in the headlights

 

Wait, if you pull said fuse, you could get rid of the DRL function?!?! WHY DIDN'T I FIND THIS OUT SOONER?!?! Does this cause a warning message?

Also, I have HIDs in mine, but no stalling issues. I have a Kensun bixenon system, and it hums loudly if set to DRLs. I've had a couple issues with warning lights coming on with the lights on Auto and turning the car to accessory, but nothing like stalling. I've had DDMs in my other car, and I have to say I'm not terribly impressed by them. I do need to aim the lights down though, because my high beams are now worthless except on hills.

As for the grounds for the harness, I just used the bolts on either side of the engine bay like this. It seemed like it was made for it!

 

humming from HID Ballast is bad news

 

I always have my headlights on. The DRLs aren't on for more than a second usually when I start my car. And good to know about the fuse!

 

I just installed some kensun bixenon headlights and kensun fogs and also removed the #25 7.5amp fuse. I get a Starter System warning light and the headlights won't turn off when I switch them to off. They only turn off when I turn off the car. Anybody have any ideas?

Passenger side ground is bolted to the same spot as esnave's but the driver side is grounded to the negative itself.

Any help would be great. Thanks!

P.S. 6000k headlights and 3000k fogs look great otherwise!

 

Never had any issues with my HID retro. Though, I'm thinking about going back to halogens and would need halogen housings. As to why I'm thinking of going back ... I sorta miss the yellowish halogen look.

 

I believe there are HIDs with different color temperatures out there.
Anything below 5000k would be more yellow.