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Click, no crank, slow cranking....

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Old Oct 7, 2023 | 03:29 AM
  #1  
530Wheeler's Avatar
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Click, no crank, slow cranking....

Just started having a cranking/starting gremlin, i tend to ramble but ill try to keep this short and sweet....

2016 Fit, CVT, Key ignition, original starter and alternator, battery is about a year old DieHard flavor 151R sized

Started about 2 days ago, hopped in to go to work and turn the key and clickclickclickclickclick so i hooked up my jump box and it fired right up and away i went, got to work and killed it then immediatly tried to restart and clickclickclickclick

Leaving work same thing, used the jump box and away i went, the next morning i put the battery on my charger but it read 100% charge so i put it back in the car, turned the key and just clicks but it eventually started to crank veeeeryyy slowwwing then sped up and fired the engine....

drove to work, killed it then immediately tried to start again and it fired right up...leaving work same thing as before, clicking then super slow crank which eventually sped up and fired, let it idle and dome light was flickering...

no idiot lights on, battery still reading 100% when i put it on the charger...checked fuses and all are ok....thoughts?
 
Old Oct 7, 2023 | 09:46 AM
  #2  
saveMT's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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First thing I'd do is to actually test the battery. Neither the age nor the charge level will tell you the whole story. It's the cranking amps it's willing to put out.
A lot of auto parts stores will test them for free.

Now, if the battery is bad, I assume you can get some sort of warranty on it, if prorated.
Beyond that, if it wasn't a lemon battery, you might need to dig deeper. Charging system working good? A loose ground somewhere? So on and on.
 
Old Oct 7, 2023 | 10:49 AM
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woof's Avatar
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Yup. Get a proper test of the battery done with a load tester. And check the battery connections to make sure they're not loose or corroded. Clean them off and re-tighten.
 
Old Oct 7, 2023 | 02:15 PM
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530Wheeler's Avatar
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Ill be taking the battery to get tested today, to test the alternator where exactly do i place the leads on my multimeter...? ive checked the ground right on the frame next to battery and it looks good clean and tight, where are others i should check?
 
Old Oct 7, 2023 | 04:51 PM
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i have started having a vaugely similar issue at 53k and am about to change the starter. i also have a one month swapped 51 battery and heard the + post can be a bit smaller so im also going to file the gap on the bolt bigger in the + connector because its TIGHT, but it looks like its tight on itself,not the terminal. odd the dome light flickers
 

Last edited by 2015FITEX; Oct 7, 2023 at 04:55 PM.
Old Oct 7, 2023 | 08:36 PM
  #6  
530Wheeler's Avatar
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Took the battery and had it tested at Riebes and sure enough the second he hooked it up it started screaming, 210 available CCA out of 370

Bought a new group 51R, dropped it in and shes been back to normal all day

**both battery posts on my new 51 Napa battery are the same size as factory
 
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