Weird 2016 honda fit starting problem
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New Member
Joined: Oct 2023
Posts: 2
From: St louis
Weird 2016 honda fit starting problem
Hi everyone, I am new here. My 2016 honda fit had intermittent starting problems about four months. Sometimes I step down brake, press the start button, all the lights are on, radio and A/C work, but I can't get the engine turn over, I can only hear one click sound. I need to keep turn on/turn off more than 10 times to get the engine finally started.
First I thought that is the start button problem because I also got that smart entry system light on, and AutoZone said the battery looks okay, so I replaced the push start button. It worked for one day, but after idle my car for 24 hours, the problem came back. This time, I took my car to AutoZone and replaced with a new battery, while it still took me about >15 times to start the engine. The staff suggested that I drive above 40 mph for 10 min to charge the battery. When I went back to autozone, they tested the battery again, everything looks fine.
After I brought my car back and parked it for 6 hours, the problem came back again. I am frustrated now. I took the car to O Relly and had them test the alternator and starter, staff said both of them function normally.
Now I really ran out the idea, the only clue I have is that it will be hard to start the car in cold weather. Once I get the engine warm, I won't have the problem. My friend suggested check the spark plug, changed to thinner oil. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you
First I thought that is the start button problem because I also got that smart entry system light on, and AutoZone said the battery looks okay, so I replaced the push start button. It worked for one day, but after idle my car for 24 hours, the problem came back. This time, I took my car to AutoZone and replaced with a new battery, while it still took me about >15 times to start the engine. The staff suggested that I drive above 40 mph for 10 min to charge the battery. When I went back to autozone, they tested the battery again, everything looks fine.
After I brought my car back and parked it for 6 hours, the problem came back again. I am frustrated now. I took the car to O Relly and had them test the alternator and starter, staff said both of them function normally.
Now I really ran out the idea, the only clue I have is that it will be hard to start the car in cold weather. Once I get the engine warm, I won't have the problem. My friend suggested check the spark plug, changed to thinner oil. Do you have any suggestion? Thank you
Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,058
From: New Mexico
Welcome. I've long suspected that the pushbutton start Fits have a circuit design issue in that the electrical load is not properly buffered on startup. Key start Fits don't burn through ignitions and starters at the same rate, so perhaps completing the circuit mechanically (with a key) is less wearing on electrical parts.
As a result of said circuit design, both the start switches and the starter are prone to premature failure, and when one goes, it's often ascribed to the other.
According to some reports here, Honda has begun goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter. So it's like they're taking responsibility, but for only half the issue, and the much less expensive half at that. Starters are going to run 2-3x the cost of start switches to replace.
It's impossible to tell at a distance whether your start switch or your starter is failing. It could be either or both.
On top of that, if you're still running the original 151R size battery, you might want to consider upgrading to the bigger 51R size as many of us here have done. Search this subforum for details. The 51R battery has about 30% more CCA than the 151R. It might not solve your starting problem, but it might allow more reserve than you have now. In the cold climate where I live, it's a no-brainer. We need all the CCA we can get.
As a result of said circuit design, both the start switches and the starter are prone to premature failure, and when one goes, it's often ascribed to the other.
According to some reports here, Honda has begun goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter. So it's like they're taking responsibility, but for only half the issue, and the much less expensive half at that. Starters are going to run 2-3x the cost of start switches to replace.
It's impossible to tell at a distance whether your start switch or your starter is failing. It could be either or both.
On top of that, if you're still running the original 151R size battery, you might want to consider upgrading to the bigger 51R size as many of us here have done. Search this subforum for details. The 51R battery has about 30% more CCA than the 151R. It might not solve your starting problem, but it might allow more reserve than you have now. In the cold climate where I live, it's a no-brainer. We need all the CCA we can get.
New Member
Joined: Dec 2023
Posts: 5
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Please keep us updated on this issue. I just bought a 2018 Fit with a push start. It is fine right now, but any info you find or might help me in the future of mine starts to act up.
I switched to the bigger battery in my previous Honda Fit abs that made me feel way better in the wintertime knowing I had higher cranking amps. I’ll be doing that to my current one soon too.
I switched to the bigger battery in my previous Honda Fit abs that made me feel way better in the wintertime knowing I had higher cranking amps. I’ll be doing that to my current one soon too.
Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 465
From: Vancouver , BC
just changed starter on key start 50k Canadian fit......click ...start or click.click ...start.......rock auto, seems to have fixed it...we do a lot of short drives,its a city car for us...started about a month after i upgraded to larger battery.just as preventative...no issues ..did have some battery terminal size problems (MAYBE!!) but eventually changing starter seem to have cured everything
Last edited by 2015FITEX; Dec 5, 2023 at 11:33 PM.
New Member
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 3
From: Loomis
Same Intermittent Starting Issue
I have a 2015 111K mi EX that started having the intermittent starting problem 7 months ago and it's gotten significantly worse at starting with 1 push. I went to the local Honda dealers (2 of them) and since they thought I was stupid, they wanted to charge me for a diagnostic ($150 my cost regardless if they cover the repair/replacement under warranty, ...."as that is their policy"), I asked if they would just replace the push button as it is under a recall, however since I'm over the 9 yr warranty extension by 2 months but not over the 125K miles, they refused to repair the switch, so I said thanks but I won't be buying my wife the HR-V from you or Honda because of your customer satisfaction priority "policy", I'll switch to Toyota to see over the years their policy may be less short-term profit driven at the expense of customer satisfaction, so the cash flow to your dealership is significantly lower then fixing the push button start switch vs the profit you'd get by selling me another car.
I then ordered and bought a push button switch on ebay for $45, and put it in myself. Unfortunately, that did NOT fix the intermittent starting issue. The same symptoms present themselves, ie the dashboard lights up normally and there are a number of relays I hear engaging (but no starter solenoid and starter running). A year or so ago I replaced the ageing battery to a less expensive and readily available larger battery, by modifying the plastic carrier base, so I know it's not a weak battery contributing to the problem.
So based upon your comments, it looks like I'll shotgun the problem and get a $150 starter from RockAuto and see if that fixes the problem after trying 1 more thing.
I'm thinking that if I try to start the FIT with the push button, and it doesn't start, but I leave it on (with the dashboard lit up but starter not firing), and I put 12V directly on the starter solenoid, it should fire the starter, to rule out that is not the starter's problem. Do you see any downside to that strategy, ie putting a hard 12VDC to the starter with the wiring in place feeding back into the push button circuitry output stage or possibly some intermediary relay?
So the gamble as I see it is also the intermittent timing of the failure, ie if I sit there and repeatedly push the button in 4 sec intervals, it can start in 2, 3, 5, 7, 21, (45 my worst case so far) attempts, it can and has started [ab]normally. So if it takes me a couple of moments to crawl under the car to hit the solenoid with 12V and the starter doesn't fire, then viola I believe I've found the failure ie, the starter is bad. However, if it does fire the starter, and if it either is a timing issue or a pseudo-random number of push events that could have "fixed" itself (whatever else is the real culprit), while I optimistically conclude it was not the starter's fault, then I'll be in the same uncertain position I'm in at this point, al beit $150 poorer.
Any other thoughts or stragedy on troubleshooting this intermittent nightmare?
I then ordered and bought a push button switch on ebay for $45, and put it in myself. Unfortunately, that did NOT fix the intermittent starting issue. The same symptoms present themselves, ie the dashboard lights up normally and there are a number of relays I hear engaging (but no starter solenoid and starter running). A year or so ago I replaced the ageing battery to a less expensive and readily available larger battery, by modifying the plastic carrier base, so I know it's not a weak battery contributing to the problem.
So based upon your comments, it looks like I'll shotgun the problem and get a $150 starter from RockAuto and see if that fixes the problem after trying 1 more thing.
I'm thinking that if I try to start the FIT with the push button, and it doesn't start, but I leave it on (with the dashboard lit up but starter not firing), and I put 12V directly on the starter solenoid, it should fire the starter, to rule out that is not the starter's problem. Do you see any downside to that strategy, ie putting a hard 12VDC to the starter with the wiring in place feeding back into the push button circuitry output stage or possibly some intermediary relay?
So the gamble as I see it is also the intermittent timing of the failure, ie if I sit there and repeatedly push the button in 4 sec intervals, it can start in 2, 3, 5, 7, 21, (45 my worst case so far) attempts, it can and has started [ab]normally. So if it takes me a couple of moments to crawl under the car to hit the solenoid with 12V and the starter doesn't fire, then viola I believe I've found the failure ie, the starter is bad. However, if it does fire the starter, and if it either is a timing issue or a pseudo-random number of push events that could have "fixed" itself (whatever else is the real culprit), while I optimistically conclude it was not the starter's fault, then I'll be in the same uncertain position I'm in at this point, al beit $150 poorer.
Any other thoughts or stragedy on troubleshooting this intermittent nightmare?
Welcome. I've long suspected that the pushbutton start Fits have a circuit design issue in that the electrical load is not properly buffered on startup. Key start Fits don't burn through ignitions and starters at the same rate, so perhaps completing the circuit mechanically (with a key) is less wearing on electrical parts.
As a result of said circuit design, both the start switches and the starter are prone to premature failure, and when one goes, it's often ascribed to the other.
According to some reports here, Honda has begun goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter. So it's like they're taking responsibility, but for only half the issue, and the much less expensive half at that. Starters are going to run 2-3x the cost of start switches to replace.
It's impossible to tell at a distance whether your start switch or your starter is failing. It could be either or both.
On top of that, if you're still running the original 151R size battery, you might want to consider upgrading to the bigger 51R size as many of us here have done. Search this subforum for details. The 51R battery has about 30% more CCA than the 151R. It might not solve your starting problem, but it might allow more reserve than you have now. In the cold climate where I live, it's a no-brainer. We need all the CCA we can get.
As a result of said circuit design, both the start switches and the starter are prone to premature failure, and when one goes, it's often ascribed to the other.
According to some reports here, Honda has begun goodwilling the start switch, but not the starter. So it's like they're taking responsibility, but for only half the issue, and the much less expensive half at that. Starters are going to run 2-3x the cost of start switches to replace.
It's impossible to tell at a distance whether your start switch or your starter is failing. It could be either or both.
On top of that, if you're still running the original 151R size battery, you might want to consider upgrading to the bigger 51R size as many of us here have done. Search this subforum for details. The 51R battery has about 30% more CCA than the 151R. It might not solve your starting problem, but it might allow more reserve than you have now. In the cold climate where I live, it's a no-brainer. We need all the CCA we can get.
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 216
From: Los Angeles, CA
I have a 2015 111K mi EX that started having the intermittent starting problem 7 months ago and it's gotten significantly worse at starting with 1 push......
So the gamble as I see it is also the intermittent timing of the failure, ie if I sit there and repeatedly push the button in 4 sec intervals, it can start in 2, 3, 5, 7, 21, (45 my worst case so far) attempts, it can and has started [ab]normally. So if it takes me a couple of moments to crawl under the car to hit the solenoid with 12V and the starter doesn't fire, then viola I believe I've found the failure ie, the starter is bad. However, if it does fire the starter, and if it either is a timing issue or a pseudo-random number of push events that could have "fixed" itself (whatever else is the real culprit), while I optimistically conclude it was not the starter's fault, then I'll be in the same uncertain position I'm in at this point, al beit $150 poorer.
Any other thoughts or stragedy on troubleshooting this intermittent nightmare?
So the gamble as I see it is also the intermittent timing of the failure, ie if I sit there and repeatedly push the button in 4 sec intervals, it can start in 2, 3, 5, 7, 21, (45 my worst case so far) attempts, it can and has started [ab]normally. So if it takes me a couple of moments to crawl under the car to hit the solenoid with 12V and the starter doesn't fire, then viola I believe I've found the failure ie, the starter is bad. However, if it does fire the starter, and if it either is a timing issue or a pseudo-random number of push events that could have "fixed" itself (whatever else is the real culprit), while I optimistically conclude it was not the starter's fault, then I'll be in the same uncertain position I'm in at this point, al beit $150 poorer.
Any other thoughts or stragedy on troubleshooting this intermittent nightmare?
Last edited by FITEsq; Jan 19, 2024 at 03:33 AM.
New Member
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 3
From: Loomis
I added another puzzling problem with my 2015 FIT (check the thread for details) and was hoping the results of your adventure could help me address my struggle.
New Member
Joined: Jan 2024
Posts: 3
From: Loomis
Trying to force the 12V onto the solenoid was too challenging a logistic (tight spaces) fight to accomplish, and placing 12V to the power post to the starter did not appear to make any difference, as the 12V is on the power post to the starter, when the battery is connected. I opted for the new starter for the out-the-door $160 vs a rebuilt one for $90 plus tax and S/H, to reduce the short term $'s saved upside, while inviting the possible/likely starter longevity risk. So I bought a new starter from Rockauto, changed out the starter - difficult as that was, as the bottom mounting bolt was factory tightened to at least ~200 ft lbs 8 yrs ago (which was no easy feat in the cramped spaces along with my shade tree mechanic's tools, equipment, and experience). Then Voila, problem solved, and I'm back ... on the road again.... 
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 216
From: Los Angeles, CA
New starter on my 2015 FIT in February for me.
Trying to force the 12V onto the solenoid was too challenging a logistic (tight spaces) fight to accomplish, and placing 12V to the power post to the starter did not appear to make any difference, as the 12V is on the power post to the starter, when the battery is connected. I opted for the new starter for the out-the-door $160 vs a rebuilt one for $90 plus tax and S/H, to reduce the short term $'s saved upside, while inviting the possible/likely starter longevity risk. So I bought a new starter from Rockauto, changed out the starter - difficult as that was, as the bottom mounting bolt was factory tightened to at least ~200 ft lbs 8 yrs ago (which was no easy feat in the cramped spaces along with my shade tree mechanic's tools, equipment, and experience). Then Voila, problem solved, and I'm back ... on the road again....
I had a 8 Year extended warranty on the 2015 FIT to 80K miles when the starter went out and they replaced it at no charge. But I have had constant battery issues on the 2015 Honda Fit and the 2016 Honda Fit with battery stop working/go dead over and over. I think I found what seems to be a underlying issue with these battery issues on the Fit.
Now first time the battery went dead on the Honda Fits was on the 2015 Fit I went to start it late one night, and the lights came on but no start and jump start made it think it started but just sat there so got AAA flatbed in morning to take me to dealer, and the battery was about 20 months so didnt think much about the service department saying it may have been a older battery or the car sat for a while before being sold to me, so they replaced at no charge as under car warranty.
Then when I came back with the same 2015 Fit they said it probably was the alternator and drained out the NEW battery quickly as it is no longer getting charged by the alternator. Well they ran it through every test they could think off and found nothing and replace the battery without telling me why it died, but charged me as they said no longer under warranty even though it was a NEW battery as they said it had to be under the CAR warranty, but the starter would not turn over, but I had a extended warranty on the 2015 so they replaced the starter, no charge..
Then my new 2016 Fit went dead as a doorknob one morning and they said I must have left a door open or light on, which I knew was not possible as I check that since the issues with the 2015. So they said it was a parasitic draw but they checked everything on it (normally $160 charge) and nothing came up and since under warranty they replaced the battery no charge.
So the NEW battery on the 2016 Fit went dead after 6 months and they said I must have left it sitting for too long or the battery was defective and they replaced it no charge as still under car warranty, by a few days. So got my trickle charger out and put it on them if the cars sat for any period of time as no more car warranty.
Then the 2015 Fit went dead as a doorknell as I was over in Texas on the NEW battery I had bought, so drove to dealer on spare DIEHARD I carry now and dealer checked everything and found nothing and put a NEW battery, no charge
Then the 2016 went dead with no car warranty, and had AAA give me a FULL charge jump and get to dealer, so they said it must be loose electrical connection, a damaged wire, or corrosion on the battery terminals. But they checked it and everything was like new as I keep them pretty clean and battery bad so they replaced the battery at no charge without saying anything.
So now the 2015 dies stone dead in Texas on the NEW battery with 12 months, and I bring it back on the DIEHARD to the dealer there and they go over everything but checked out ok. They said they would have to charge me a prorated rate on the NEW battery because they already replaced it. My wife didnt tell me till we were already on the way to Florida, so didnt know my wallet had been pinched for a new battery.
So then the 2016 Fit went dead after not being used for a few days on a Honda battery the dealer put in and checked to make sure no parasitic drain or bad connections or malfunctions on any of the electrical parts on the car. So got a INTERSTATE battery and put that in and a spare battery for the 2015 and it went bad again so took it to Honda dealer and complained "bitterly" and they put in a 100 Month Honda battery so now its on them. Well they must have updated the IMMOBILLIZER software as I just found out that seems to be the issue causing the parasitic drain and the issue disappeared. But since they didnt tell me I thought it was the 100 Month battery so I got one for my 2016 Honda Fit when its battery went dead again but guess what I was checking it every day and it was going done measurably so bought a Honda trickle charger that measures when it needs to be charged at the dealer so they woullnt blame that and was leaving it plugged in, but I just found out about the IMMOBILLIZER software update so trying to get the dealer to give me a appointment for it.
Now first time the battery went dead on the Honda Fits was on the 2015 Fit I went to start it late one night, and the lights came on but no start and jump start made it think it started but just sat there so got AAA flatbed in morning to take me to dealer, and the battery was about 20 months so didnt think much about the service department saying it may have been a older battery or the car sat for a while before being sold to me, so they replaced at no charge as under car warranty.
Then when I came back with the same 2015 Fit they said it probably was the alternator and drained out the NEW battery quickly as it is no longer getting charged by the alternator. Well they ran it through every test they could think off and found nothing and replace the battery without telling me why it died, but charged me as they said no longer under warranty even though it was a NEW battery as they said it had to be under the CAR warranty, but the starter would not turn over, but I had a extended warranty on the 2015 so they replaced the starter, no charge..
Then my new 2016 Fit went dead as a doorknob one morning and they said I must have left a door open or light on, which I knew was not possible as I check that since the issues with the 2015. So they said it was a parasitic draw but they checked everything on it (normally $160 charge) and nothing came up and since under warranty they replaced the battery no charge.
So the NEW battery on the 2016 Fit went dead after 6 months and they said I must have left it sitting for too long or the battery was defective and they replaced it no charge as still under car warranty, by a few days. So got my trickle charger out and put it on them if the cars sat for any period of time as no more car warranty.
Then the 2015 Fit went dead as a doorknell as I was over in Texas on the NEW battery I had bought, so drove to dealer on spare DIEHARD I carry now and dealer checked everything and found nothing and put a NEW battery, no charge
Then the 2016 went dead with no car warranty, and had AAA give me a FULL charge jump and get to dealer, so they said it must be loose electrical connection, a damaged wire, or corrosion on the battery terminals. But they checked it and everything was like new as I keep them pretty clean and battery bad so they replaced the battery at no charge without saying anything.
So now the 2015 dies stone dead in Texas on the NEW battery with 12 months, and I bring it back on the DIEHARD to the dealer there and they go over everything but checked out ok. They said they would have to charge me a prorated rate on the NEW battery because they already replaced it. My wife didnt tell me till we were already on the way to Florida, so didnt know my wallet had been pinched for a new battery.
So then the 2016 Fit went dead after not being used for a few days on a Honda battery the dealer put in and checked to make sure no parasitic drain or bad connections or malfunctions on any of the electrical parts on the car. So got a INTERSTATE battery and put that in and a spare battery for the 2015 and it went bad again so took it to Honda dealer and complained "bitterly" and they put in a 100 Month Honda battery so now its on them. Well they must have updated the IMMOBILLIZER software as I just found out that seems to be the issue causing the parasitic drain and the issue disappeared. But since they didnt tell me I thought it was the 100 Month battery so I got one for my 2016 Honda Fit when its battery went dead again but guess what I was checking it every day and it was going done measurably so bought a Honda trickle charger that measures when it needs to be charged at the dealer so they woullnt blame that and was leaving it plugged in, but I just found out about the IMMOBILLIZER software update so trying to get the dealer to give me a appointment for it.
@Reddogs So it's the IMMOBILLIZER software that is causing the battery drain on the FITS?
I have a 2015 FIT. How do they update that?
I have a 2015 FIT. How do they update that?
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