When I got in my car this morning the engine didn't want to start. All the instruments lit up, but when I depressed the brake - as much as I could since it's pretty stuff after sitting fit a few hours - and pressed the power button, everything just clicked like crazy for a few seconds then stopped. I tried it a few times, shutting everything off between tries. I noticed the Scangauge wasn't showing anything on the display, it was illuminated but blank. I disconnected it, pushed harder on the brake, and fidgeted the shifter (already in P) and the engine started. I don't know if it was any one of those things or all three, but has anyone else gotten just a series of clicks when trying to start the car? Is it possible the Scangauge has some effect on the car?

 

Here is another recent thread regarding the car not starting when it should:

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/3rd-...art-again.html

Sorry this is happening. I'm sure it is frustrating.

 

Thanks for the link. I was reading that thread last night. I'm not so sure it's a battery issue, but I'm going to be more systematic about it if it happens again.

 

Anything connected to the OBDI port, whether a ScanGauge , a Blitz Throttle Controller, or a Progressive Insurance Snapshot "spy" device will parasitically draw from your battery when the car is not running. That said, under normal circumstances it might not be a problem, were it not for the Group 51 lawn mower batter Honda loves to use in the Fit.

In my '09, I once accidentally left the headlights on once for 40 minutes at 70 degrees F and the battery was dead when I got out there to start the car. I don't think reserve power gets any worse than that in any vehicle. Perhaps a Group 151 battery might fit in the 2015. In the GE, the positive terminal's fuse buss was obstructed by the airbox so you couldn't get the positive terminal onto the battery's post without some unsightly modifications. If i recall, the 2015's do not have this obstruction issue.

You are correct in thinking it may be something other than the battery.

 

The preset voltage reading for the battery on the Scangauge, is that the battery voltage or is it the alternator charging voltage? The voltage read fine when the engine finally started, in the 14V range.

 

Sounds like a bad cell in the battery to me. The give away is the clicking sound upon trying to start the engine.

 

Yeah, I just got home about 20 minutes ago and they replaced the battery at my local dealer. Now I'm concerned I hear clicking while the engine is running and I'm stopped...Is there an after effect that that could cause on other components? I could also just as easily be everything breaking in, I think I just broke 200 miles on the odometer.

 

The scan gauge is causing a parasitic draw, draining your battery is my guess. Remove the scan gauge and drive for a couple weeks and see if it happens again.

 

It may be the direct injection you are hearing now, and that is by design.

 

It kind of sounds like a film projector clicking. When Google Drive starts working, I'll post the video of the engine with the sound.

 

That's 100% injector noise.

 

Wow, I never would have thought it should be that loud. Isn't it funny how we notice the slightest "new" detail after something that's gone wrong is repaired?

 

Got the video uploaded. Here's the sound.
Yes, the phone seems to pick up sounds very well, so it sounds louder than it is, but it's not silent either.

 

Welcome to the wonderful world of direct injection. That sound is where gas mileage gains come from. Embrace it.

 

Thanks for double verifying. I'll pretend there are characters from old fashioned cartoons making everything turn in there.

 

If the sound was soften up a little bit would sound like a cat purring. lol