Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353636)

Hey all!

This weekend I had to take apart my bumper and passenger headlight fixture to reset the headlight. I got into a small fender bender and I really didn't have the money to cover my deductible, and since it wouldn't void the pre-owned warranty, I just decided to JB Plastiweld, and reattach the bumper since everything was still intact (save the headlight mounts)

So in "classic Fuzz" fashion (as my friends would say/call me) I decided to do a little chrome elimination because...well...I despise chrome and think it looks tackier than a six cylinder Mustang with flames. (or any mustang, really)

Enter the plastidip (or in this case the Rustoleum Peel Coat).

I covered the chrome on the front and back, and reversed the badges.

I dig the way it looks:

Also: does anyone know a good way to take the silver trim off the dash? I'd love to either black or white those out, but I don't want to pull my whole car apart to do it. :wiggle:

Originally Posted by SilverEX15 (Post 1353652)

i wonder how that Rustoleum will hold up over time. It won't be hard to remove the chrome from the dash, but what will it look like under it? It could be rough and sloppy.

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353663)

I don't want to actually remove it, I just want to pop it off and dip it, but I'm afraid that some of the pieces are screwed in.

Originally Posted by BenQuick (Post 1353316)

tire pump.

Originally Posted by SilverEX15 (Post 1353671)

That's where the lack of a shop manual hurts.

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353676)

Does one exist? I haven't actively searched, but it would good to have. #righttorepair

Originally Posted by Limmie (Post 1353674)

In 40 years of driving I have had 3 flat tires. Each time I was able to get to a tire place without having to change the tire because I had a foot pump. It is slow but probably faster than actually changing a tire and as long as you only have a slow leak it saves a lot of trouble. I found with my 2016 Fit I could accommodate one of those inexpensive foot pumps in the spare wheel area, wrapped in a cloth so it does not rattle. There's a fair amount of space down there for other emergency items.

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353642)

Are these just plug and play LEDs? Everything I've read up to this point (which admittedly isn't much) said you have to retrofit the LED bulbs.

Originally Posted by FitRaptor (Post 1353456)

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...7c00de662.jpeg

Just installed here's the info.<br/>Amazon purchase<br/>-Headlights H4 stark 6k lm<br/>-H8: Calais fog golden color<br/>-7440 Partsam rear reverse led lights

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fit...8c96e3428.jpeg

EBAY: Switchback turn signals, sorry the best I can do with my iPhone. <br/>7440 Amber white high power turn signal light switchback projector led + resistor. Seller was esongbpn 99.6 positive feedback.

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353642)

Are these just plug and play LEDs? Everything I've read up to this point (which admittedly isn't much) said you have to retrofit the LED bulbs.

Originally Posted by FitRaptor (Post 1353727)

Ok here it goes from my experience so far. It's been a few days since I installed my LED lights.
-Interior are all "plug and play" you just need to find the bulb size.
-exterior is almost all plug and play.
Reverse light plug and play (7440)size
Fog lights plug and play (h8)size
Headlight plug and play (h4/HB2) but with these you will need to find a location for the ballast zip-tie it somewhere or use 20lbs double sided tape to place it somewhere convenient.
Front turn signal are (7440) BUT these lights require a resistor. When installing LED on turn signals the cpu thinks it has a bulb out because of the low voltage the LED creates since these signals turn on/off continuesly. Now if you YouTube "led turn signal installation" you would see what I am talking about and also learn how to install it. It's very simple. Trust me if I can do it anyone can :nod: good luck buddy

Originally Posted by FitRaptor (Post 1353727)

Ok here it goes from my experience so far. It's been a few days since I installed my LED lights.
-Interior are all "plug and play" you just need to find the bulb size.
-exterior is almost all plug and play.
Reverse light plug and play (7440)size
Fog lights plug and play (h8)size
Headlight plug and play (h4/HB2) but with these you will need to find a location for the ballast zip-tie it somewhere or use 20lbs double sided tape to place it somewhere convenient.
Front turn signal are (7440) BUT these lights require a resistor. When installing LED on turn signals the cpu thinks it has a bulb out because of the low voltage the LED creates since these signals turn on/off continuesly. Now if you YouTube "led turn signal installation" you would see what I am talking about and also learn how to install it. It's very simple. Trust me if I can do it anyone can :nod: good luck buddy

Originally Posted by orataro (Post 1353745)

I too have switched to all LED's other then the turn signals (Hyperflash working on it) Next will be my headlights. Do the DRL's still work while running the LED's in the headlights?

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353748)

What did you do about the boot? The stark kit says you can't use the boot with it, and doesn't that leaves the whole inside of the headlight fixture exposed....

Originally Posted by KByers12 (Post 1353748)

What did you do about the boot? The stark kit says you can't use the boot with it, and doesn't that leaves the whole inside of the headlight fixture exposed....

Originally Posted by FitRaptor (Post 1353758)

The DRL still works perfect, so far no issues

Originally Posted by orataro (Post 1353800)

Thanks. I was informed that I needed to pull the fuse for the DRL's if I wanted to run some LED's for my headlights. And, the Boot issue, I think it's a heating issue? By removing the boot it keeps the lamps from over heating. I could be wrong. Just a thought.

Thanks again.

Originally Posted by FitRaptor (Post 1353845)

Why would you pull the fuse? Because the lights stay on all day?
And about the boot. Well I really have not gotten that far. And if that's an issue (which I hope it is not) then I should do the same. Have to go back to the drawing board. Need to find out more info on these LED's. Dude I just read all the bad reviews of this spark system and all have something in common "after a few months lights flicker and dead!" Definitely don't want this happening to mine. And if this is due to the overheating then I'll punch some holes on that boot :eek3:

Originally Posted by orataro (Post 1353861)

I too wasn't sure why I had to pull the fuse for the DRL's. As for the boot issue, from what I've read on some of these higher output LED headlights is it is not suggested for headlights with a dust cover on the rear of the boot. From my understanding the Fit does not have a cover but only the boot. So, I think it should be okay.