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Location: Foothills of the Smokies, east Tennessee
Posts: 943
Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
Yup, I open and close the same way. My garage is underneath my 13 month old daughters bedroom. I open and close the HB every morning without waking her so it really doesn't need much force to close.
Age and weight doesn't mean anything with how hard or soft doors are closed. I had to tell my mother-in-law when we took a road trip to visit my wife's grandmother, to watch how hard she shuts the door in my SUV. She would slam the door and sometimes wake the baby in the car seat. When her grandmother would ride with us, she too would slam the door. When I first started dating my wife, she would also slam the door and I had to say something to her. Must be an Indiana or mid-west thing...
43K and 2 years on the Fit, and I'm still on the original trim piece.
My wife still slams the doors to this day (our kids too).....even after repeatedly asking them not to and even demonstrating how gently you close it and still securely latches shut. We have an '05 Corolla, a '10 Forte, and a '15 Fit.....none of these require anything beyond a gentile push. Last car I had that the doors needed to be "slammed" shut was an '93 Celica, and it still didn't require much force, just more than newer cars. My wife is from suburban Detroit, maybe yer on to something with reference to geography
My wife still slams the doors to this day (our kids too).....even after repeatedly asking them not to and even demonstrating how gently you close it and still securely latches shut. We have an '05 Corolla, a '10 Forte, and a '15 Fit.....none of these require anything beyond a gentile push. Last car I had that the doors needed to be "slammed" shut was an '93 Celica, and it still didn't require much force, just more than newer cars. My wife is from suburban Detroit, maybe yer on to something with reference to geography
The only door my wife can't slam is on my 2004 4Runner's rear hatch. The struts are so strong, she has a hard time pulling it down. It has a motor that once you get it close to closing, it ratchets it tight. I think she grew up driving Ford's (last car was a Mustang) so doors needed slamming I guess.
I had a 93 Celica GT HB 5MT. I have really fond memories of that car! I do remember the doors were long and heavy.
Just found this on my 2016 Fit. BTW i never touch the plastic bit when opening and closing. I feel like that force of shutting it made it cracked! hopefully covered under warranty
Add me to the list of broken hatch trim garnishes. It's oddly difficult to find that part number, but I believe it's 74890-T5A-A11 for the black (LX) garnish. It seems to list for like $150 ish at many online retailers (e.g. HondaPartsGuysHondaPartsNow). I believe the chrome finish version (Sport?) is 74890-T5R-A11 (HondaPartsNow). I have a base model with the manual latch, so it's bound to get some wear and tear. From some of the parts I've seen it looks like higher trims were equipped with an electronic latch with a trigger button. My guess is that this problem primarily occurs on the base models.
Our problem wasn't actually caused from 'pulling' the garnish as a handle to lift the entire hatch. I broke mine from 'pinching' or 'pushing' the center of the plastic garnish. I tend to put my thumb on the Honda emblem and squeeze the latch release, then use the latch release to lift the hatch. I'd suggest not doing it that way...ESPECIALLY in cold weather. I'm not sure what kind of plastic the garnish is made from, but it gets very brittle as the temperature drops, and it has a very low fatigue resistance.
If I come up with any creative repair solutions I'll post them here.
Last edited by DesktopDave; 02-08-2022 at 10:30 AM.
very flimsy design , as it doesn't feel anchored to the actual handle below it . even though i know to grab the handle below properly , it seems like something that will eventually break
, there's too much movement going on . might be a good idea to buy one now just to have on hand . how many parts will be in stock a few years down the road ? i had my last Honda
16 years .
Honda has a history in designing trim parts around the rear door / hatch opening handle, which are not supposed to be touched. I can and like to handle the hatch without touching anything else outside than just the handle, just to keep my hands clean year round. But what annoys me is that there is no slot or place to make sure the hatch is closed and not just gently lowered without locking. Maybe I need to make that bent aluminium plate someone suggested.
While I agree that the trim piece is flimsy, I also know the weight of the trunk hatch is very light. So light that you need VERY little force to close it.
I usually start with the cutout on the passenger side, then as it closes, i lightly place my fingers on the rear plate to close the rest of the way.
Since I have 4 bolts in each plate hole, it closes with a solid (yet light) thud.
Honestly, since the rear hatch is so light, we've resorted to just using the backseat area for groceries/cargo with the rear seats in the "up" position.
This way we eliminate the risk of damaging the trim piece and also reduce wear on the trunk struts.
While I agree that the trim piece is flimsy, I also know the weight of the trunk hatch is very light. So light that you need VERY little force to close it.
I usually start with the cutout on the passenger side, then as it closes, i lightly place my fingers on the rear plate to close the rest of the way.
Since I have 4 bolts in each plate hole, it closes with a solid (yet light) thud.
Honestly, since the rear hatch is so light, we've resorted to just using the backseat area for groceries/cargo with the rear seats in the "up" position.
This way we eliminate the risk of damaging the trim piece and also reduce wear on the trunk struts.
BMW guy? Which one(s), if you don't mind me asking?
Now that I'm thinking about it, I always swing the hatch closed with the inner scoop handle. It takes a relatively hard tug to do that in one smooth motion, so the hatch does see some moderately harsh use. I'm willing to accept full responsibility here. We have a wide variety of vehicles, when I switch between them it's easy to misjudge the force required to slam a hatch or door. I'll just have to use a lighter touch with the Honda.
It is possible that the fairly light structure of the hatch is causing the flex. The pneumatic spring mounts under the hatch flange aren't far from the garnish ends, and all hatches definitely flex as they close. The garnish is quite wide, and it has a fairly weak center due to the latch release cutout, emblem mountings, etc.. The garnish material isn't well suited to the task, but it shouldn't be a difficult repair. It's pretty, light, and quite rustproof.
No big deal, I can live with a few flaws. This car has been a pleasure otherwise: small footprint, awesome interior space, easy maintenance, highly reliable, efficient, fun to drive. Aftermarket parts availability isn't bad either. Often, it's easy to find improved parts for most any common flaw available from aftermarket vendors. For better or worse, Honda is often the victim of cheap "JDM" "carbon fiber" accessory trim bling, but that popularity also makes spare parts easy to find. Sadly, I've found nothing yet except a dicey-looking LED strip on Amazon. Still looking, though.
BMW guy? Which one(s), if you don't mind me asking?
It's just an old 88 325is I purchased while in university 20ish years ago.
I've also had an 86 325es (sold it for the 325is). I've entertained the idea of getting a newer BMW over the years, but they don't have the charm and simplicity.
When I decided on the GK5 Fit, it was the closest thing to my e30 that I could find (rotary HVAC dials, manual transmission, easy maintenance etc.). The aftermarket support for mods and cargo capacity makes it the perfect grocery-getter (that's about all we use it for).
As my first Honda, it's been OK. Luckily I still have bumper to bumper warranty thru Honda until Oct 2023, so at least that's taken care of some bigger repairs (VCT actuator), and a squeaky clutch.
It's just an old 88 325is I purchased while in university 20ish years ago.
I've also had an 86 325es (sold it for the 325is). I've entertained the idea of getting a newer BMW over the years, but they don't have the charm and simplicity.
When I decided on the GK5 Fit, it was the closest thing to my e30 that I could find (rotary HVAC dials, manual transmission, easy maintenance etc.). The aftermarket support for mods and cargo capacity makes it the perfect grocery-getter (that's about all we use it for).
As my first Honda, it's been OK. Luckily I still have bumper to bumper warranty thru Honda until Oct 2023, so at least that's taken care of some bigger repairs (VCT actuator), and a squeaky clutch.
Funny you'd compare the two, but it definitely makes sense. I'd guess the Fit is pretty similar to an 80s 3-series dimensionally ...power, torque, maybe even wheelbase and curb weight!
I agree about simplicity too. I tend to buy higher-mileage used cars, and most of the expensive problems end up being the power conveniences. The simple mechanical stuff tends to be quite robust. It's also easier to troubleshoot. I wish mine was a manual too, but this one just fell into my lap. The CVT isn't that bad though.
IMHO Honda has stayed a lot closer to their roots than BMW. I'm pretty big on the '80s BMWs too. I've had a bunch of E30s over the decades (including an '87 325iS). The last one we owned was a '91 318i sedan. I sold it off a few years back. Nearly 300K miles on the original powertrain, it was an incredibly reliable car. I'm told it's running rallies now. They were lovely cars, those old Bimmers. Reliable, tough, simple and quite serviceable. I'm restoring an '86 635CSi now...it's a prettier car, but far more finicky.
Funny you'd compare the two, but it definitely makes sense. I'd guess the Fit is pretty similar to an 80s 3-series dimensionally ...power, torque, maybe even wheelbase and curb weight!
I agree about simplicity too. I tend to buy higher-mileage used cars, and most of the expensive problems end up being the power conveniences. The simple mechanical stuff tends to be quite robust. It's also easier to troubleshoot. I wish mine was a manual too, but this one just fell into my lap. The CVT isn't that bad though.
IMHO Honda has stayed a lot closer to their roots than BMW. I'm pretty big on the '80s BMWs too. I've had a bunch of E30s over the decades (including an '87 325iS). The last one we owned was a '91 318i sedan. I sold it off a few years back. Nearly 300K miles on the original powertrain, it was an incredibly reliable car. I'm told it's running rallies now. They were lovely cars, those old Bimmers. Reliable, tough, simple and quite serviceable. I'm restoring an '86 635CSi now...it's a prettier car, but far more finicky.
You can't go saying something like that and not include a pic or two!
Regardless, congrats! Does yours have the Euro bumper setup or the US setup?
Forgot to reply! Sorry about that. This picture makes it look a lot better than it is in person, LOL. US diving boards on this one. I know this is heresy, but I prefer the US version over the more delicate Euro parts. I'd prefer to have the later world bumpers, but those are quite scarce these days.
Mostly original, mid-production US market bumpers.
Apologies for the gigantic pic, how do I manage picture size here?!?
I actually repaired mine, never updated this thread. It had gotten pretty bad, to the point that the Honda logo was loose, and the two parts of the garnish would randomly pop off the hatch. All it took was a surplus aluminum can, a little foam tape and some two-part epoxy. I used JB Weld, although I'd think many other epoxy brands could work out OK.
The rear wiper must be removed to get at the garnish trim. Pry the plastic end cap off, then remove the retaining nut (don't twist the wiper arm at this point! If you do that when the nut is removed, you will damage the stud!). To remove the wiper arm, I used a trim tool wrapped in a towel, wedged under the arm, to carefully pry it up and away. The wiper arm was stuck onto the stud quite tightly. Tools like actual wiper 'pullers' are also available for removing wiper arms from the mounting studs if you're worried about breaking anything. Once the wiper arm is removed, the garnish trim is just snapped on there. If yours is like mine, it'll basically fall off in your hands. Be careful to remove the foam washers too, keep them with the plastic mount pins on the garnish. If any pins are broken, get some new ones to replace them. I'd go for the original Honda parts in this case. I've had very mixed luck with the cheap substitutes available online. If this repair is going to take a while, I'd recommend having some tape on hand. I'd figure some blue painter's tape would be enough to keep the water out. I'd also suggest a little electrical tape on top of the license plate lights, just to cut down on glare.
Now that the garnish is removed, I moved over to the workbench for the actual repair.
I started with the logo. It's difficult to carefully remove the two steel push washers from the rear of the Honda logo, but I managed to do it with a jeweler's screwdriver. It might be better just to buy a new one, they're not expensive. I just prefer to fix stuff. If you decide to do it the hard way (like me, LOL), gently "work" the washer alternatively from side to side, helping it "climb" back up the pin. Once I had the push washers off, I used a little Rhino gel to stick the broken pin back on. I'd think any similar CA adhesive like Krazy Glue would be just fine.
I felt that the repaired pins weren't strong enough to hold the logo onto the garnish. I used a little automotive-grade 3M double-sided foam trim tape. I find it's easiest to cut this tape roughly to length, then stick it onto the rear of the logo badge, then trim it to final shape with a fresh single-sided razor blade or sharp exacto knife. Don't remove the red plastic backing from the foam tape until the logo is ready to be installed. That tape is pretty serious, it's not really easy to move it around.
For the garnish lip, I started by emptying a convenient aluminum can, then cut the can open with shears, finally trimming it into a patch that would fit in the center section of the garnish.
My can had a plastic internal coating that might have caused trouble. I sanded it off with some coarse sandpaper. The textured surface also improves 'bite' for the adhesive.
I set up a temporary rest to prevent the garnish from pulling apart while the epoxy was curing, cleaned the bonding surfaces with some isopropyl, then taped the outside cover of the garnish with some packing tape to tie everything together and prevent the epoxy from pushing through.
I loaded the patch up with some well-mixed epoxy; much as you would butter your toast. I applied the patch, pressed it in with moderate pressure. You don't need to go crazy here, it's good to leave a little room under the patch for the epoxy to cure.
The epoxy will set pretty quickly, within about a half-hour, but it won't fully cure for 15-24 hours according to the directions. I waited about a full day.
Once the cure was complete, I added a little aluminum tape to further reinforce it (they stock this at the hardware store, it's normally used for sealing ductwork, definitely not duct tape).
I removed the packing tape, I'd also clean up any stray epoxy at this time but it came out quite well. I also re-drilled the two holes for the Honda badge.
I cleaned the surface with a little isopropyl, waited for it to dry, then stuck the logo back on.
Last edited by DesktopDave; 12-01-2022 at 07:31 PM.
Reason: Pictures!
06-22-2017, 08:12 AM
