Like many, I used info from this forum, the Odyssey Forum, and an Accord tech pdf. While all the info is straight forward, people mention "trial and error" but without specifics. Aiming the cam and getting it to view is quite easy and fast. Its getting the guides to lineup at a good distance/location—That's where you'll spend your time. In my experiments, I found "setting the guidelines" was only limited by your patience. If you don't use the guides, simply get the cam viewing again and move on. If you want to try and aim the guidelines read on...

You'll need:
a target (*Letter-sized PDF printed to fill page -129%)
a ladder/stepstool (I used a music stand)

Where to Perform Aiming:
any evenly lit area. (I did mine in a parking garage in NYC)

Access Diagnostic Menu:
- Power car (no engine)
- Press Power+Eject+Menu
- Select Diag Menu
- Function Setup
- Lanewatch, aiming button is at bottom of screen.

Before pressing the Lanewatch switch, use the cam view to adjust your target location.


Positioning Target: (see photos below)

*Since the aiming is based on perspective, the size of your Target will affect where you position your Target (i.e. if you print a smaller target you'll need to move it closer to the front of car/ make a bigger target, you'll need to move it towards the rear of the car). Adjust as needed.

I found that if I place the target;
- facing forward at 90º to the side of the car
- located at the center of the rear door handle
- with the top edge of the target at the height of the scooped seam
- about 18" (centered) away from the passenger side of the car

I was able to get guidelines that were parallel to the curb at approximate distances of; 1/2 car length (RED), +1 car length (YELLOW), +2 car lengths (YELLOW).


Variations:
If you move the Target toward the front of the car, the guides get closer together (Shorter car lengths)

If you move the Target toward the back of the car, the guides get longer. (*Theres a limit of how far back you can move the letter-sized target. Distances past the rear door seam caused Aiming Failures)

If you move the Target away from car, the "curbline" of the guide moves out of parallel, similar to the tilt (see below)

If you raise the Target, the guides will appear to "float" above the road behind the car

If you lower the Target, the guides will appear to "sink" into the road behind the car.

If you tilt the Target away from the car, (more than 90º off the side of car) the guides "drift" into the road.

If you tilt the Target toward the car, (less than 90º off the side of car) the guides "drift" into the shoulder.

*Hint: If you're really fine tuning, work with the variables in the following order; Forward/Back, Distance away from car, Height, Tilt. Placing some markers on the ground can also speedup the process. Once you're close, slight adjustments will lock it in.


Files/Pictures:
1. Target jpg, open file & print full-sized
2. Accord svc PDF, with description of aiming procedure
3. My location of Target
4. Target height/angle/distance from car
5. Adjusting: Moving target back/ re-aiming; guides moved back from markers
6. Final guide positions (illustrated with paper wads)
7. Final camera view

Final thoughts:
Since some cars may be modded (different tires/rims/heights) and targets may be of slightly different print sizes, I avoided using exact measurements. All positioning is approximate, and adjustments can be made within the area of the rear door. Experiment, its easy to set.
YMMV, hope it helps

 

Very good writeup! We should sticky this because I too have screwed with the AIM when it was never broken.

One question. I too used a music stand. How many ft/inches from the ground to the bottom of the paper pattern? that will have an effect as well as the distance away from the side of the car.

 

Hi Bassguitarist1985,
Thanks (BTW, love your write-up on the heated mirrors) The music stand is great, you can quickly adjust height/swivel with ease.

I used approximate locations (due to variables in print size/car heights) and lined up the "top edge" of the target with different areas on the side of the car. I tried the bottom of the window, the center of the handle, and various other "visible landmarks" on the side of the car. I found the best location to be with the top of the target lined up with the bottom of the "scooped out" detail on the side of the car. (See crosshairs in 3rd and 4th photos)

 

You are very welcome! Had to use them this morning! Below freezing DOH!

The cross hair photos do help. I figured with some rough measurements it can cut down on the trial and error period getting the position just right for the camera aiming to be ideal.

 

I would consider the "crosshairs" a good starting point. My guess is that adjustments would be minimal to personal preference.

After doing this process, if I wanted to customize the guides (maybe someone prefers a wider or un-parallel curb-line guide), I would "map-out" where I wanted them with markers on the ground and move the target to get them there. Opens the door for a lot of customization, since "ideal" is in the eye of the beholder.

 

I wanted to really thank you for your article. I had to replace my daughter's passenger side mirror ($485), and afterwards the camera would not work. Called Honda and they said that I would have to take it in for a tech to get this done, and it would cost approximately $100 to aim. I was able to aim it in 5 minutes once I spent 10 min trying to access the menu.
For the HRV line the menu code is the same - radio power, eject, and main menu simultaneously.
Have a great year.

 

Hi Peteno
Im happy I could be helpful and add to the forum. Im really grateful for all those who post and share their knowledge.

Happy New Year!

 

Thanks for this guide.
New right mirror installed by body shop aimed at low flying aircraft which included the bottom of the mirror. Yikes!
I don't know how they could have calibrated it, but printing out the guide and with some trial and error, got the camera to aim at the edge and parallel to the roadway as before.
Really appreciate having this info!

 

Hi tbFit
wow its been a while ... so happy its still useful for everyone!!
best-

 

I still think this thread should be stickied or included in the quick reference guide!

 

A very helpful post! The only change in my case is my 2018 Honda Fit uses Power+Menu+Brightness to access the diagnostic menu. But it was only about 10 minutes to get the camera adjusted. Thanks again!

Mike

 

Chapito's post was just what I needed after the passenger-side mirror on my 2018 Fit EX lost a 20-mph encounter with a trash can. There are two things I would like to add. The first is an instruction sheet from 1A-auto that describes the lanewatch camera aiming process -- including precise-ish dimensions for positioning the full-size aiming target in relation to the car. And the second is how I used that to position the 8.5" x 11" printout of that target.

Using the instructions, I stuck a 60" long pole into the ground using the instructions provided to position the pole. I set the distance from the outside of the rear tire to the target as indicated in the instructions, adding 16", so the pole was at the center line of the full size target -- which, if I remember correctly is 32"x48". Next, I marked spots on the pole for 5.75" from the ground, then added 48" to that and marked the pole. Using the marks, I attached two strings from the marks on the pole to the bottom of the mirror assembly just below the mirror. Next, I positioned the smaller target at the point where the target contacted both strings when the target was vertical. At that point, I measured the distances from the top string to the passenger side of the car.

The measured distances are: 15.75" from the bottom edge of the passenger door window frame to the top center line of the target; and 40.25" from the top of the target to the street. The target was perpendicular to the side of the car and perfectly vertical. And the target was in a perpendicular line from the rear of the passenger door handle assembly.

Following the instructions, the aiming procedure worked the first time. And the distance marks lined up as they should.

And that's all the news (so far).

 

Any updates on this process since last published? Anyone have the service manual instructions?