Wow! 125K miles on the original problematic injectors - that's impressive.

 

Try 91 octane; see if it makes any difference in power delivery. It did for me. Anyhow, I think we found our cure to injector problems. I never ran the motor that hard that frequently, but I know they can take it. Is yours burning any oil at that mileage?

 

Not a drop! I do change oil every 5k, with Honda filters and Moble 1. Works well. Fit takes 3.5 quarts, and wife's Toyota takes 6.5. Buy 2 gallons and they're both covered.

I'll run a couple tanks of 93 through it and see what she does. Thanks for the tip.

Did swap plugs about 110k. They looked great. Electrodes were naturally worn, but color was right on. No signs of detonation or oil burning.

 

Doing a little homework on injectors. Honda is pretty proud of their service. At 100,000 miles I asked about service to see what I had to change. They quoted a plug change as $300. I asked about just buying plugs, they wanted $47 for ONE plug. Plug swap takes maybe 10 minutes if you're goofing off while you do it. At least that's about what it took me.

So I'm reading injectors are up to almost 2 grand?

You can buy them on line for $700, and they look very simple to replace. Here's the link, they're in the front of the engine under the intake, don't look like you have to remove too much..

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuin...el-injector,,1

 

Yes, I got sucked into their "service." My son's car wouldn't pass inspection - fuel problem. For about $300, they cleaned the fuel system and changed the oil. That didn't help. I replaced the MAF sensor myself, and that let the car get inspected. Two weeks later, the Check Engine lights came on. That would have meant $1,700 for fuel injectors. Fortunately, his car was totaled, and he got a 2019 Fit.

As for parts, beware of buying non-Honda parts that relate to emissions and the Check Engine light. A mechanic told me that non-Honda parts can be detected by the computer, and they won't work.

I bought a MAF sensor for $76 at Auto Zone. No good. Their warranty was also no good. The warranty is good unless you use the part. I bought the identical-looking Honda sensor for $268, and that let the car pass inspection.

 

I did some additional thinking and I don't think the octane has anything to do with improving performance (who knows, maybe it does). The gas I put in when I decided to try this is also ethanol free .... so I am not really sure what contributed to the power increase... ethanol free gas or octane rating or both. But when I tried the same thing (putting 91 shell vpower gas) in my CVT GK, I was not able to see improvement in power delivery (probably due to the nature of the cvt and computer interaction). But with the manual transmission the difference was that power delivery was consistently excellent... whereas with 87 it was a hit or miss ... sometimes I would get good power and sometimes car would feel like it lost some horses (sluggish) and I was always perplexed about that.

 

Easy - cost more to fill the tank.

 

That's a great point. It does cost more, but the question is how much? I say that because i noticed fuel economy improvement every time I gassed with ethanol free gas. E10 (i.e. 87 oct vanilla) always gave me less mpg relative to shell 91 vpower. based on my calculations... the cost is about 5% more gassing with shell 91 taking into account the improvement in fuel economy. But I don't know if ethanol free gas is available in the US market. I know shell has it for sure up here in Canada. Petro canada has ultra 94 (guessing for ferraris and the like) but it is also an E10 meaning it definitely has ethanol in it.

 

Stewart's and many others sell ethanol-free gas.

 

Ethanol free gas is available in upstate NY, but none of it is the recommended “Top Tier” gasoline. I’ve tried to use “Top Tier” gas when available and no problems at 76,000 miles.

 

The idea is to use it once a month, or so. It's supposedly good for the fuel system.

 

I've been using the cheapest gas I can get in my area, top tier or not. Typically it's at the Murphy gas station, owned by Walmart. I'm at almost 90k, and so far so good.

Guess it's Murphy's law...

 

 

My 2015 was manufactured in Feb 2015, in Mexico..It is the LX model, and has the CVT. I bought it new in June 2015.

I did the rusty door handle and misplaced rear grab handle recall. The Honda dealer got the black sealing glop from the plastic film onto both front windows. Cleaning it off did no good, because every time I opened a window and then closed it again, or maybe it was vice-versa, the window would pull up more glop onto itself from somewhere..So I took off the door panels myself, and cleaned away the globs of glop that kept being dragged onto the windows, before replacing the door panels. The dealer had done a less than perfect job of sticking the plastic film back into place correctly. Most of it was stuck back in the correct place but in one spot on each of the front windows they placed it over a component where originally the film had been placed under it. Probably made no difference but I returned each piece of film to the correct position.

My bumper has "The Sag.". The styrofoam block is missing. It took about a year before the widening gap at the sides, due to the missing styrofoam block, became noticeable to me, but. I remember looking at each gap every time I got into the car and wondering when, if ever, it would become noticeably uneven. I have to put in some kind of spacer block one of these days. Probably I'll use some of that dense rubber floor mat material, the kind that comes in 2 foot by 2 foot squares and has edges that go together like a picture-puzzle. I should have some scraps pieces of it lying around. Meanwhile I've just been pulling the bumper up at the center now and then, before getting into the car, to try to take some of the strain off of the clips at the sides.

The odometer is nearing now to about 28,000 miles. I've replaced the front windshield wipers once, and the rear twice. The Firestone tires needed replacement at about 22,000 miles. The battery feels just a little weak when starting the car on very cold days but it will probably get through the rest of this western North Carolina mountains area winter and need replacement before next winter. So that's about 5 years for the battery.

I think that about covers it.

 

With my CVT my tachometer goes up to nearly redline when I put the throttle pedal to the floor in order to merge onto a limited access highway. It stays stays almost rock-steady at about 6,600 RPM whilst the CVT does all the work of making the wheels turn faster and faster.. Yes the tach just sits there at 6,600 while the car accelerates quickly. Other drivers pull their car into a left lane to get out of my way, or slow down to let me in ahead of them – but do so quite unnecessarily. I love the acceleration on this vehicle and the engine sounds smooth at 6,600 RPM. It doesn't sound like it is being at all overworked. And of course there is a governor to prevent it from over-revving. So I just push down on the accelerator peddle as far as it will go, leave my foot there, and wait for the car to reach highway speed – at which point I press the cruise control button and give my foot a rest.

 

I work with a guy that has a 2015. He's not had many problems with it yet but he's only had it for about a year.
It's gotten more reports than any other year on car complaints.




https://www.carcomplaints.com/Honda/Fit/2015/

 

As far as I'm concerned, I'm in a waiting game with my 2015. At 61,000 miles, it's still okay, but...

As for resale value, I don't plan to sell it.

 

I don't think it's just the 2015s, it seems that there are issues with the design (VTC actuator, injectors, ignition coils).

But yes, my 2015 has been a headache.

First I had the paint issues less than 6 months into ownership. During that time I drove around with my paint falling off in sheets. It was embarrassing.

I had the ignition coils replaced under warranty.

Most recently (and costly) is the fuel injector failure at 94k miles.

All I need now is the full blown VTC issue (which I have occasionally) and I'll have the full collection of GK5 problems.

I have a manual transmission, and I'm not looking forward to another costly repair when the clutch goes in the near future. Hoping to sell this year, before that happens.

Feeling down about the Honda. I hoped to get to 200k miles without mechanical problems, based on Honda's reputation.

Thanks for letting me vent.

 

If my car gets the injector problem, I think I'll just swap a K24 in. If I'm going to spend that much money, might as well see some improvement in performance. Of course, that depends on if it happens in the first place, and if the K or Civic turbo swap kits hit the market by then.

 

Does your state check for emissions? That could be an issue if the engine is different.