Hi all,
I just signed up in hopes of gleaning some advice on my system build for "Miss Fit," a recently acquired a 2018 Honda Fit Sport w/3k miles on the odo that I picked up via "fly and buy" in LA. I work in multimedia production and have been a audiophile since college, so I know a fair bit about studio and home systems, but very little about auto mobile audio systems.

I am hoping to build a low to mid range system in hopes of improving the already decent (compared to my 05 Toyota Matrix AWD) system in the Fit.

Due to a lack of fitment parts and somewhat due to not wanting to lose my stock features (most specifically Android Auto, steering mounted controls and back-up cam), I am currently planning on working from the factory head unit.

I am not looking to "Rock the Casbah" or impress others at the stop light, but am mostly looking to make a nice, tight sounding system with decent clarity at moderate volumes.

In the spirit of an old recording studio saying, "You're better off with 2 $400 speakers than 4 $200 speakers," I am considering using a 4 channel compact amp to drive replacement front component speakers and a modest subwoofer and forgo rear fill speakers.

Note: I camp out a lot and don't want to use much space for Subs and Amps etc...

My current plan is to use:

• a compact 4 channel Amp (considering many like a JL Audio JX400/4d (70w into 4Ω, 200w Bridged )to run...
• JL Audio c2-650 component speakers (pulled from my Matrix) for the front sound stage. (CH 1 & 2)
• Kicker CompRT 43CWRT672 CompRT shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer mounted in a rear door. (CH 3 & 4 bridged)
• also considering a "lineout converter" and moderate (or major) sound insulating/deadening

Right now I am looking for recommendations for a good compact 4 channel Amp. Where isa good place to mount a compact amp? I was considering on the center tunnel under rear seats. Perhaps on the back of the console?

I am also wondering about the benefits/trade-offs of adding a Lineout Converter like the AudioControl's LC7i.

Amps under consideration right now are:

• JL Audio jx400/4
• JL Audio rd400/4 (if it seems worth it)
• Infinity Primus 6004a (if it's powerful enough and sounds good)
• Soundstream Stealth ST4.1200D (if they are not junk?)
• JBL's GTR-104
• Pioneer GM-DX874

Suggestions and advice in compact amps are appreciated.


Also, what would I gain from using a line out converter? Is it necessary/worthwhile if the amp takes "speaker level" input and I use the amp's hp/lp filters to crossover the sub and the front main speakers? They seem rather big and I don't see much space, but I am sure I could fit one if it would make a big difference.

My installer has a MTX re-q5 that he'd like to sell me which has the benefit of a line in. Does it seem as good as tthe Audio Control stuff? Where would you suggest I mount such a beast (10-1/2"W x 1-1/2"H x 4-1/2"D)?


Overall, I feel like the subwoofer may be the weakest link in my current plan, but I am not really expecting/seeking chest pounding bass. Mostly, I think that the sub would take a fair bit of pressure off of the JL Audio c2-650's woofers (especially if I crossed it over at 120 to 180 hz.).

Thank you for any thoughts, warnings or advice.



PS -- I will try and add links to the products, once I determine what kind off links are allowed.

 

Hello have you tried looking into Arc Audio? They have mid size amp that you can install under your seat and can power an entire system like this 5 channel amp. https://www.arcaudio.com/store?p=179597
They sound great and are used by many people in the audiophile world. I had them in my fit before and loved them until I updated to a full 3way active system

 

Forget about the kicker subs in the rear doors. I've already tried them in my car that has good sound deadening and for a free air setup, they were pathetic. I was driving them with up to 200 watts RMS each. They might sound better if you wanted to take the time to build a small enclosure for them in the doors. I played with multiple settings including playing with the timing (through DSP), making them mono, varying the frequency response they play at, varying the equalizer settings, etc... I actually was not after deep basshead boom. I wanted more midbass and kick drums.

Car audio is nothing like home/studio audio. If you get enough into it, you'll end up spending more time and money in the upgrade stages than if you did it all in the beginning, of course this depends on what and how you want the sound to be like. The car environment in some cars just isn't the best for audio (unless you want to invest in the time and money to make it sound better) as external noises interfere with the what you would normally really like to hear. If you have an appreciation for good sound quality (and staging), then you'll find that it is not as simple as replacing parts in a car with poor sound deadening to begin with. If you are a basshead, then you might get away with a rolling boombox setup and be happy with that.