I'm wondering, too. The method of going into the diagnostic screens and changing the settings is better than nothing, but it is highly annoying to have to do it again and again, especially if you are out shopping or delivering pizza (I imagine) and don't want to leave the car running between stops. I would love to build one of the circuits that always allows me to display my GPS on the car's screen.

 

Hey guys, it's been a while. I apologize for disappearing for so long with no updates. A new job and some family stuff has taken away much of my time and energy for this project. However, I have recently had some time to dedicate to it, and I made a breakthrough with an issue that has been plaguing the design since the beginning. I've got a couple more kinks to work out (like making sure I order the right parts...) but I am fairly confident I will have a fully working version of the custom circuit board in the next week or so! The hardware isn't really in the final state I want it to be in, but it's the minimum to get what we need done!

I'm very excited to finally have figured out my issue and to get this thing working. More to come!

 

Hey Ducttape, i got your message the other day. Im standing by for the prototype when you get it together. Weather is getting better in CT, and im ready to reinstall my stereo system into my new 2017. Firmware is different, but the signal routing should still be the same, same pinouts on the connectors basically.

 

That's definitely encouraging! It's possible they have shifted around the CAN bus frames, but I find that unlikely (Reuse, reuse, reuse! Especially in a cheap car).

I only have 3 boards on hand right now that I can build up, so I will have to order some more. I want to make a couple minor revisions, and I need to do some testing to see if I can pull power from the head unit connector. The link you sent me with the Thai version of this device didn't require external power, so there should be some somewhere! Just need to pull apart the head unit (again).

Once the hardware is settled, I want to make a case that I can 3D print to keep the thing safe as well. It's a little sketchy to shove behind the dash as-is, considering its just a raw PCB and there is metal everywhere. Always more to do

 

I'm sure you have already taken this measure, but be sure to put some sort of fuse or current limiter so it does not cause issues. Smoking components in a dash area mired by clips and screws will be a pain to get to in the event. I have noticed that PCB PSU's in the 12 volt environment need to be able to handle a wide voltage range, especially at the startup event with the engine cranking. The internal relays disconnect all the accessories when that happens but the sudden loss of power may cause booting errors within your device. A possible 4-5 second delay power on may be necessary. So many variables.

 

I just put that on my issues list for the next version. Right now I am pulling power from the USB port, which has its own current limiting build in, but I eventually want to pull power from the head unit if I can, and that will definitely require a PTC or some other type of fuse to be added for safety.

I'll do some investigation into the need for a power on delay. My device boots up extremely fast, so I am not that concerned, but I do need to be sure.

 

I have a Fit 2016 EX if you need a tester for that third board.

 

Yeah, tapping power off the B+ feed to power your device is possible, but some sort of regulation and current limiting is necessary. You could potentially use a common L7805CV LVR, but depending on how much mA your device draws may not be very efficient. A buck converter would be better using the LMZ23 series from TI.

 

Well guys, great news! Got my new parts in and everything works like it should. Can't believe I was foiled for so long. I'll be building up the other two prototype boards I have soon, and hopefully get them into the hands of some testers!

I did some research into drawing power from the head unit via the BCAN connector and so far no luck. I did some multimeter probing and determined that most of the pins seem to be connected to the microcontoller on board, so not useful for drawing power. I did find two grounds, so that's a start. I actually disassembled the entire head unit again and started probing around, but have had no success determining any power sources yet. Time will tell.

Thanks for the power supply suggestions Bassguitarist!

 

Great to hear that you're moving ahead!
After blowing up a couple of Pololu smps on an automotive accessory project, I added a protection circuit with a tvs and a polyfuse. Look up "load dump" for more info.
Cheers!

 

I havent looked at this thread in a while, good to hear things are moving along.

 

Hi all! Longtime lurker, first time poster - just wanted to volunteer that if you're looking for tech-savvy folks to help in testing anything, I'd be an excited candidate! I'm a software engineer with a manual transmission 2015 Fit EX and a 3d printer. Let me know if I can be put to any use - if not, I'm excited for the final product!!

 

Guess I'll have to look at phones w/ better HDMI compatibility. Apparently Motorolas don't...

 

I'm also super excited about how this will turn out. I tried with current (ctrl + alt + delete) option with my iphone 6s plus and lightning to hdmi cable I got off of eBay. I only see the screen partially . My Fit screen only shows about half of what my iphone is showing on its screen. Don't know if it's a resolution issue or what. But my hope is that your new development will resolve all the issues nice and clean!

 

While I hope that this project comes to fruition, just wanted to say that there's now a device out there that's cracked the puzzle. I bought the below device and installed it in my 2015 Honda Fit EX, Manual transmission:
​​​​​​
https://www.caraudioco.com/crux-vimhn-96.html

And at long last, I'm able to use all functions of the head unit without any motion lockout!

 

Now all Ductapemaster needs to do is figure out his cost and time, and undercut the competition slightly to grab the market share!

 

cool. hope there are video on youtube to demonstrate it.

 

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but was a turn-key solution (for us mortals) ever created to defeat the motion lockout? I just picked up a 2015 CR-V and was hoping to defeat the HDMI motion lockout. Thanks!

 

https://naviks.com/i-24075462-2015-2...ut-bypass.html

but its MAD MONEY! Ducttape has not been on for some time here sadly. Smart dude too.

 

Does that same product work on 2019 GK5 as well? Is anyone aware of any alternative products to enable using all functions of the infotainment system, while the car is moving?