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Action Jackson's tinkering

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  #61  
Old 10-11-2017, 03:56 AM
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Originally Posted by [LegenD]
Very cool and clean mods. Thanks for the write-ups on some of these. Also dig the wrap, looks nice
Thanks! Where abouts in the GTA are you?
 
  #62  
Old 10-12-2017, 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
Thanks! Where abouts in the GTA are you?
Hey, sorry for the late reply. Just noticed you're from Ontario as well. I'm around the Hamilton area. Was wondering if there are any other GTA Fit owners here
 
  #63  
Old 10-12-2017, 09:04 PM
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There are. I'll PM you about adding you to the GTA Fit whatsapp group.
 
  #64  
Old 10-12-2017, 09:11 PM
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Oh, awesome, thanks man!

I'll try and get my build thread up soon as well.
 
  #65  
Old 10-18-2017, 11:48 PM
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Gentex 50-GENK5AM Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror with Compass. Bought from Amazon.com from AutoExtras (ReplacementRadios). I asked for a wire cover and they kindly gave me one.


This is the wiring kit. I wrapped most of it in electrical tape.
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This is the stock mirror window mount:
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Stock mirror:
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Gentex mirror:
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This is the wire cover they kindly gave me, when I requested it:
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Mirror comparisons:
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Taped off more of the wires to hide the colors:


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Installed:

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Last edited by Action Jackson; 10-19-2017 at 06:00 PM.
  #66  
Old 10-22-2017, 05:33 PM
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I've modified Padawan's GK Independent Fog Lights Mod to Fogs on Anytime (as long as car is running). Thanks man!


https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/fit-...fog-lamps.html


This the purple wire from the factory light/signal stalk. This is where you also connect the 1N540x diode.
This wire goes onto the "30" in the relay.
You have to pry up on the upper steering column cover.
It might make the work easier if you remove the lower steering column cover.
There's one bolt underneath, and 2 near the front, behind the steering wheel:
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>> UPDATE: The ground is the same, for Anytime On, I've wired up '86' to a switched source such as cigarette lighter <<



This will be where I put the ground (goes into "85" on the relay) and receive the illumination power from the grey wire (goes to "86" on the relay) using the stability control interface.
You have to pull the weather strip off a bit, pull of the plastic cover, and undo the bolt (already loosened in pic) in order to pull out the lower dash panel:
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A side look at the connector (the thing at the top of the picture):
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A closer look:
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Easy to remove, just squeeze the two sides of the clip together:
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And here you tap into that grey wire which goes to "86" on the relay:
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I used the metal on the back of this bolt as a ground.
I've already got the ground on for my auto dimming compass mirror.
This ground goes to "85" on the relay:
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And finally, the hardest part besides worming the wires through.
It's behind the dash, and you can get at it from underneath the steering column.
You're using the grey wire which goes to "30" on the relay.
To the right of the pic is the common wiring bundle that I've snaked through power wires for audio system:
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Just like the Stability control interface, you can squeeze the sides of this unit to loosen it:
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I just blew out all the fuses once. JK!


Everything works fine.


UPDATE : Anytime On : '86' is wired to switched source


These pics are with the car shut off.

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Make sure that you remember to turn off the fogs, if you had them on!

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Last edited by Action Jackson; 03-29-2021 at 12:17 AM.
  #67  
Old 10-24-2017, 01:32 PM
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Installed my horns awhile ago, but this pic is to show that in warm weather, you can just "roll" the lower grill off.


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  #68  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
Installed my horns awhile ago, but this pic is to show that in warm weather, you can just "roll" the lower grill off.
I recently pulled the bumper to fix the sagging issue I've been living with for years, and I could totally see how the front grill can be pulled off to do the horns. Since the bumper was going off though, I did the horns

Have not had a chance to use the horns yet, and maybe it's a good thing if I never have to
 
  #69  
Old 10-24-2017, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 2Rismo2
I recently pulled the bumper to fix the sagging issue I've been living with for years, and I could totally see how the front grill can be pulled off to do the horns. Since the bumper was going off though, I did the horns

Have not had a chance to use the horns yet, and maybe it's a good thing if I never have to
It's funny, I originally tried to pull off the bumper to reach the passenger side horn and ended up breaking the tab, so now I have a sagging bumper on one side when there wasn't any problem in the first place.
 
  #70  
Old 10-24-2017, 03:49 PM
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Cripes that sucks you broke a tab! Maybe I got lucky or that since mine has been sagging for so long it was flexible haha.

I did manage to break a plastic push pin that holds the wheel well to the bumper on the drivers side, but 2 days of driving and it doesn't look like it's going anywhere. I'll source one though as I hate having missing pieces.
 
  #71  
Old 10-29-2017, 02:30 AM
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Swapped out my Philips 130% H4 Halogen bulbs to Philips 12953BWX2 H4 150% LED Bulbs. 100% plug and play. Note I have 3M clear protection on my headlights which cuts the output a bit, and may scatter some parts of the light.



Here's a YouTube test on the bulbs:

LED on left. Halogen on right.
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60 foot wall shot at a mall.
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These are way brighter than even their own 130% bulbs (which have declined in output since they're several months old).


They do have less width up close. On a side note, I can now see my yellow fogs on the sides.


They are tricky to adjust. They're not like real HID's (for the record, I've retrofitted TSX and S2K projectors on my Integra). And they don't adjust like halogens.


They do have some low level light "leakage" above the cutoff. My guess is that is by design to faintly light up signs/reflectors up in the distance. Similar to the squirrel finders on TSX projectors. It's not glare.


So far, I haven't seen any DRL out indicators. The DRL's run the high beams on low power.


I'm not going to take a pic of the headlights head on. I've never understood the fascination people have with that.
 

Last edited by Action Jackson; 11-12-2017 at 09:38 AM.
  #72  
Old 10-29-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
Swapped out my Philips 130% H4 Halogen bulbs to Philips 12953BWX2 H4 150% LED Bulbs. 100% plug and play. Note I have 3M clear protection on my headlights which cuts the output a bit, and may scatter some parts of the light.


LED on left. Halogen on right.



45 feet wall shot at a mall.



These are way brighter than even their own 130% bulbs (which have declined in output since they're several months old).


They do have less width up close. On a side note, I can now see my yellow fogs on the sides.


They are tricky to adjust. They're not like real HID's (for the record, I've retrofitted TSX and S2K projectors on my Integra). And they don't adjust like halogens.


They do have some low level light "leakage" above the cutoff. My guess is that is by design to faintly light up signs/reflectors up in the distance. Similar to the squirrel finders on TSX projectors. It's not glare.


So far, I haven't seen any DRL out indicators. The DRL's run the high beams on low power.


I'm not going to take a pic of the headlights head on. I've never understood the fascination people have with that.

do you still have your DRLs on the high beam enabled? If so, do they flicker?
 
  #73  
Old 10-29-2017, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Bassguitarist1985
do you still have your DRLs on the high beam enabled? If so, do they flicker?
DRL's are still on, and no flickering. Let me drive it for a week to be sure.
 
  #74  
Old 10-30-2017, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
Swapped out my Philips 130% H4 Halogen bulbs to Philips 12953BWX2 H4 150% LED Bulbs. 100% plug and play. Note I have 3M clear protection on my headlights which cuts the output a bit, and may scatter some parts of the light.

LED on left. Halogen on right.

45 feet wall shot at a mall.

These are way brighter than even their own 130% bulbs (which have declined in output since they're several months old).

They do have less width up close. On a side note, I can now see my yellow fogs on the sides.

They are tricky to adjust. They're not like real HID's (for the record, I've retrofitted TSX and S2K projectors on my Integra). And they don't adjust like halogens.

They do have some low level light "leakage" above the cutoff. My guess is that is by design to faintly light up signs/reflectors up in the distance. Similar to the squirrel finders on TSX projectors. It's not glare.

So far, I haven't seen any DRL out indicators. The DRL's run the high beams on low power.

I'm not going to take a pic of the headlights head on. I've never understood the fascination people have with that.
I'm guessing the pics are of the low beams. How are the high beams? Do you get brighter light than the (supposed) 130% halogens on high beam?

You wrote "They do have less width up close. On a side note, I can now see my yellow fogs on the sides."

That is disappointing. The main reason I want brighter headlights is that when turning onto a side road, either left or right, from another road, especially a more trafficked road, I can't see the sides of the side road that I am turning onto, unless I slow down to a very low speed, and turn very slowly - perhaps causing traffic behind me to need to slow down, or perhaps causing someone who isn't functioning very well that day, to rear-end me. If I were to try and make the turn as quickly as I would make it during the day, I could easily drive onto a shoulder instead of onto the roadway - or worse - lots of the roads in my town don't have shoulders. Drift off the main road and you are in a drainage ditch, or just a plain ditch, or are tumbling down the side of a mountain.

Headlights that turn in the direction you are turning - would they help? I am doubtful - I want to see what's on the side before I make the turn.

Philips web page says they are 200% as bright as standard halogens, and 6000 Kelvin. Many merchant pages say 150% and 6200 Kelvin. Review by a user, somewhere, says they looked more like 5000 Kelvin.
 

Last edited by nomenclator; 10-30-2017 at 01:14 PM.
  #75  
Old 10-30-2017, 01:52 PM
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Several reviewers have insisted that they are no brighter than stock halogens, just whiter. Several have said they look more like 5000K than 6000 or 6200 - no bluish tint at all.
 
  #76  
Old 10-30-2017, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
Swapped out my Philips 130% H4 Halogen bulbs to Philips 12953BWX2 H4 150% LED Bulbs. 100% plug and play. Note I have 3M clear protection on my headlights which cuts the output a bit, and may scatter some parts of the light.


LED on left. Halogen on right.



45 feet wall shot at a mall.



These are way brighter than even their own 130% bulbs (which have declined in output since they're several months old).


They do have less width up close. On a side note, I can now see my yellow fogs on the sides.


They are tricky to adjust. They're not like real HID's (for the record, I've retrofitted TSX and S2K projectors on my Integra). And they don't adjust like halogens.


They do have some low level light "leakage" above the cutoff. My guess is that is by design to faintly light up signs/reflectors up in the distance. Similar to the squirrel finders on TSX projectors. It's not glare.


So far, I haven't seen any DRL out indicators. The DRL's run the high beams on low power.


I'm not going to take a pic of the headlights head on. I've never understood the fascination people have with that.
The LED lamp on the left look bluer, but the halogen on the right looks like it is brighter.

By the way, as you know, if your camera sets the aperture and shutter speed automatically, there is really no way to tell which of 2 pictures shows lights that are brighter. The camera will close the aperture or decrease the amount of time that the shutter is open for the brighter light, open the aperture or increase the amount of time that the shutter is open, for the duller lamp. Only if they are shown together in one pic can you compare - unless you set the aperture and shutter speed manually to the same setting for the 2 different pics, as well as make sure they are taken close enough together in time so that there is the same amount of ambient light - no clouds moved in between shots. It may perhaps also be a good idea to report the aperture and shutter speed for pictures that purport to show difference in brightness.
 

Last edited by nomenclator; 10-30-2017 at 05:55 PM.
  #77  
Old 10-31-2017, 07:12 PM
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Costco Kirkland Signature 51R battery:


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Last edited by Action Jackson; 10-31-2017 at 07:14 PM.
  #78  
Old 11-07-2017, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Action Jackson
DRL's are still on, and no flickering. Let me drive it for a week to be sure.


Haven't had any flickering, or other problems directly connecting these bulbs to the OEM system.
 
  #79  
Old 11-07-2017, 11:47 PM
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Dungu H11 H8 LED Fog Light bulbs - Golden Yellow


A little better than the Nokya H8 hyper yellow halogen bulbs. The Dungu's are slightly brighter straight ahead, and as the pic shows, they shine up higher. They are more yellow than the pic suggests.


My fogs are covered by a yellow film so light output is affected.


Car is 30 ft away from wall.


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For comparison, here's the Philips LED headlight.

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Last edited by Action Jackson; 11-08-2017 at 10:23 AM.
  #80  
Old 11-23-2017, 12:39 AM
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Second trunk light

I've wanted to do this since buying the car. Well better late than never, two years later.


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One OEM, the switched version from HR-V
COB LED's had to be slightly modified to fit.
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Thickness of cargo cover holder
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Careful trimming away with dremel and cutting disc
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All done. In the middle is a grey scale and color card used for photography. Obviously a little to bright. Both lights turn on or off from the same switch from HR-V light. The light on the right is the HR-V, and it's white. The diffusers in the lens cause the blue light to appear.
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