When setting the car up with some neg. camber, should one run a bit more on the passenger side?

 

What are you trying to do? What track are you running?

Generally no you shouldn't, though I'm not sure why you are even asking the question to begin with.

 

Asking because theres no passenger/extra weight. More weight means more camber. If adjusted the same both sides when the driver gets in the car camber increases. I'm autocrossing.

 

If you want to get that technical, do the alignment with you sitting in it, or with a weight equal to your own in the seat, then set camber. Looks retarted when you aren't in it, but is perfect when you are.

And to note. Not sure about your auto x experience.... But a 1/4* of camber difference really won't matter unless you are a pro and can have your first and last run within 1/2 a sec of eachother. At that level, a tiny adjustment in camber/tow may give you the extra tenth per run. Also.... You are in a fit. If you want to dominate stc, get a 89 civic si. Lol

 

More concerned with equal tire wear.

 

Then Technically yes. But if you are autocrossing, you eat the shit out of your tires anyway... So it's counter productive.

 

I'm with Eurobeaner. Just get the alignment done with you in the car or equal weight in the drivers seat. My camber isn't equal, nor do I really care... I can't tell a difference in tire wear (both track and daily sets). You'll see more benefits from changing how much camber in general instead of cross-camber comparison.

$.02

At any rate, if tire wear is your concern remember this: TIRE ROTATION IS YOUR FRIEND

 

Why not run STF like the rest of us?

 

No rules where we run except 4 cyls. and street tires.

 

Yes alignments should be done with the weight of the driver or passengers regularly in the car.

But you logic is flawed. These cars do not gain camber with weight or even suspension travel. Its because of this reason McPherson cars need way more static camber because the suspension doesn't make it up when the chassis rolls.

Also camber does not wear tires...toe does. I've run -2.5 to -3.5* of camber in the front with no wear daily driven.

 

^^^^^^^^^Thanks for that. I'll make both sides the samw. With these camber bolts up top manufacture says 1.75 deg. neg. If I need more should I install another pair in the bottom holes?

 

I agree with the first statement.

 

The wear issue I have/had wasn't daily driving. One event trashed the outside shoulders of the stock tires, running 40lbs. pressure. The new tires feels worlds better at the limits imposed on my daily driving. No protests whatsoever. Conti DW Extremes. Tomorrows auto x will give more feedback.

 

You can install another bolt on the bottom but I am not really a fan of that practice. I don't like the idea of two smaller bolts holding the strut to the knuckle, especially when they can rotate and change camber. The best option is ovaling out the top hole, or just getting coilovers that have this elongated hole on the top already. It's very difficult to get a good amount of camber with stock struts. I have around -1.5 on my Fit and I have -3 on my civic but I had to install camber plates and the bolts in the top.

And yes outside wear is from not enough camber. Installing the bolts will help with this but probably not enough to get rid of it. For real hard driving with sticky tires you will need 3+*

 

Think were going to either go with Bilstein coilovers or swift springs. Just trying to reduce body roll, which will help with camber change during hard cornering (not street). Need to keep good ride quality and do not want to go low. Our driveways over 3 miles of dirt. We will keep the stock bolts in the lower position.

 

Do you have a GD or a GE? GE manual says lower bolt holes.

 

It's a GE. 2012