I've got a question that I haven't gotten a straight answer from reading a few different forums in regards to the use of Mobil's newest line of eco friendly oils - mainly the 0w-20. Realizing that it is unecessary to use synthetic oils, as well as such a low weight because I live in sunny california, I'm only curious as to how using such an oil would void or not void the warranty of the Fit.
Mobil has the API certification seal, and even boasts that it can certainly be used in Hondas, etc. that require 5w-20 from the factory.
I know using this oil wouldn't damage the engine, but my two main questions i hope to get straight answers to are:

1. Will using mobil1 Eco 0w-20 oil void the engine warranty?
2. Will using another brand of oil filter besides HONDA OEM (but one that is recommended for the vehicle in terms of fitment...Fram/Bosch/Mobil/Wix etc), void the engine warranty or warranty of any kind?

Thanks Fit Freaks!

 

Both the oil and the filter meet the minimum requirements of the Honda specs., so by using them, Honda can't deny warranty coverage of engine/drive train problems.

 

the procedure to reset the maintenance minder is posted in the owners manual. It has to be done after changing the oil or any other service the minder says needs to be done. It does NOT reset automatically.

 

Awesome, that's the answer I wanted to hear.
And I mean i'm even replacing with a new crush washer every time, and resetting the Oil/service minders as well as documenting the oil change etc. all in the log book and stapling reciepts of change. I will also be sticking to the 5K oil change intervals because i tend to idle a lot and high rev.

 

Buy the Fumoto Drain Valve and save the cost/bother of the crush washers!

 

I saw your post about that earlier, great idea, and some other companies have made it too. But I'd rather stick with old school since with this honda, i'll probably end up changing the oil twice a year. It's not a hassle and not costly :-)
Thanks again!

 

One more thing that came to my mind. I read the honda manual about the Oil Life meter, and it doesnt say how it manages to calculate the %.
I realize through reading posts that it is not able to distinguish between syn and dino, but does it factor in idle time, harder driving etc, into its measurements? or is it simply like a service reminder that goes down by % based solely upon mileage?

 

It does not do any direct oil analysis.

It goes by mileage and driving habits/circumstances, i.e. lots of short trips versus highway driving would make it alert sooner.

 

Thanks, that's what i was originally thinking. Still, that's pretty decent for this kinda car. That would also explain why 600 miles into driving my Fit the oil life already dropped 10%.

 

I went to the Hurlburt AFB hobby shop to change oil in the fit. Simple...to say the least! The oil drain plug is clearly marked, easy access, filter is in the open. I just grabber the filter with those sticky type gloves and hand loosened the filter. I reversed the procedure. The (CERTIFIED) mechanic handed me the torque wrench (after he read the torque value from my fit handbook..and he even set the torque). I recommend Honda oil filters and be sure to also buy the WASHER for the drain plug. Always install a NEW washer with each oil change. I used Mobil ONE 5W-30 synthetic oil. At highway speed (70MPH)..I got 42 miles per gallon on the 300 mile trip.

Home of the free because of the Brave,
Sarge

 

actually new crush washers are recommended but in reality not necessary
for each change... from my experience.





like sometimes i get those oil and mobil1 filter set on sale and
it's just a pita to go to the dealer to ask for a crush washer... lol

 

Got 0w-20 in today =)
So i used a washer twice and i noticed it was far easier to get the nut off...a bit too easy actually. And the new crush washer allows you to tighten more since you need to "crush" it. So i personally believe that having a new one is good - and they're not expensive at all.
And again, for me, changing my oil probably just twice - MAYBE three times in a year, wont kill me to get a new one. I just bought two at once to save a trip for next time =).

 

Obviously, the crush washer is used to prevent leaks. Good idea, because of the low expense, to use a new one for oil changes. But the Fumoto drain valve has more advantages. Replace the plug once with the drain valve, and never need another crush washer. Never lose the plug in the drain pan full of hot oil. Never have hot oil run down your arm as you unscrew onto the drain plug with your hand. Just reach under the engine, flip a lever, and let the oil fall out. Then flip the lever back again. Done.

 

fumotovalves are nice... but considering i only do oil changes once
every 6months for dd's x5yrs tops: 10 times crush washers are far
cheaper.

but ive felt hot oil myself once while doing an oil change. it was...
pretty damn hot. even so, never've dropped the plug yet into
the drain pan...i may have accidentally kneed the bumper from
shock..


ive not noticed that the 2nd hand crush washer was easier to remove.
maybe you didnt blast the oil from it during the previous change?
not sure, it has always been pretty snug to remove. it's not about
the price, it's about the hassle of going to the parts dept and asking
for a $0.80 washer.

dealers should sell crush washers like in a gumball machine outside.

 

Just did my first oil change at 50% oil life and about 3300 miles. The oil I drained was pretty dark like chocolate syrup [delicious, i know] but a lot thinner, which is not necessarily and indicator of used up oil, but then checked the oil in water and there was not much separation... the oil pretty much dispersed into the water... well dunno what that means exactly but someone said something about testing the oil this way...

anyway, i know people say the oil that comes with the car is special and shouldn't be changed for at least 5k, I'm no expert but this is my opinion... the oil that came out was very thin, dark and contaminated... and this is the stuff that's supposed to coat the engine for another 2,000 miles? it's not like the parts of the engine are physically morphing into some new element. It's just metal and oil rubbing together. no matter how many times you rub them together the metal is still metal and the oil is still oil... and from how thin the oil was it doesn't seem like much of it remained in the engine parts... the more friction put on the oil and engine parts should start to deteriorate any coating done, no? isn't the point to keep the oil at a adequate viscosity?

anyway, got myself a fumoto drain vavle,[nicely engineered piece of brass] and replaced the oil with mobil 1 5w-20 and a bosch filter... the car definitely feels smoother... the gear changes are not as abrupt, and sometimes I don't even feel them, while previously they were pretty jerky... please don't misunderstand me, this is just my experience and opinion and not stating any absolute truths here, thanks for readin'!

 

I'm pretty impressed that you can do a visual oil analysis. A better idea might be to do some research next time. Me, I spent my money on a Blackstone oil analysis after I'd left in the factory fill for 5,000 miles. There is some unique stuff in the Honda factory oil. It's a shame that people don't believe the manufacturer's recommendations. There are manufacturers out there that I don't listen to but I wouldn't put Honda in that group. Just my thoughts . . . .

 

be careful of those drain valves, i have had people come into my shop for an oil change, and when i check things out, the valve is open, there is no oil in the engine, and they say "oh.... so that probably what that noise was?"

just saying that it does happen that debris flies up and hits it. i would rather just take the 5 min of being dirty, but i guess i am used to it. honestly, if you are worried about hot oil, do your change from cold, start the engine up and let it idle for like 2-3 min. then drain the oil. the oil isnt going to be that hot.

hot is having to take a filter off that is literally right beneath the exhaust manifold/ cat on lame ass toyotas

 

hey dave brown, yea your blackstone oil analysis says what? "we didn't find anything in this sample of factory oil that we didn't expect to find"... uhh so what makes you think this is 'unique stuff'? all it said was that there was high wear and silicone, which is probably not great to keep in your engine. your analysis is not doing much for you there...

 

hey jaebee, thanks for the heads up... i'm thinking I might pick up one of those hose clips to keep the lever secured... better safe than sorry right... and being right under the exhaust manifold must not be very fun...

 

my legacy's oil filter is completely surrounded by the exhaust manifold
360 degrees. so it can get kinda hot at times.


im down to 30% on my FitS, so i'll be doing mine in a few weeks.
the first change was done by the dealer via free coupon.
i bought the filter from collegehills and they give you a crush
washer. $5 or something for both. not a bad deal if you buy
something else at their store.