Yup, metal bolt into plastic, weirdest thing to break.
Thanks for the congrats on the redo. I'm thrilled about learning how to do it. Thanks to this site.

 

Was the bolt cross-threaded in the hole you think? That would add a lot more torque to the bolt as you were trying to install. Also you're saying the bolt goes into plastic, are you sure there isn't a threaded metal insert in that plastic?

 

There is definitely a visible metal insert in the plastic. And I'm close to 100% sure it was cross threaded, come to think of it, because I was having trouble lining up the hole in the top and bottom.

So that increases the torque, huh? Makes sense. So, given that it was cross threaded, will that make it that much more difficult to fish the broken-off piece out of the hole, if I want to try extracting it?

 

Definitely makes it harder. I would probably spray it with PB Blaster, wait about 30 minutes, and then try to extract with an EZ Out bit. If that didn't work, I'd assess my desire to remove the bolt because the next step for me would be to drill it out and either replace the insert or tap the one that's there. Heat isn't an option because it's plastic.

Just not sure it would be worth going past the point of an EZ Out since it's not locating the intake. It's just a boss for locating the harness.

 

Awright, I'm going to ignore it. what about that idle learn procedure. Does it need to be done?

 

I have never bothered with the idle learn procedure. Just let it warm up and drive it gently for the first few miles. Same thing we do every morning with it.

 

thanks very much GAFIT.

 

2 years since we bought the car, that's how long I waited to do this service and "I can't believed I waited that long"... Gas smell, tight engine, hesitation, stalling, rough idling, etc, etc... all that is gone!

Like everybody else, intake were loose and tight exhaust. It took me like 4 hours, but it was my first time ever doing valve adjustments, I was taking my time trying not to make any mistakes, for me this was the toughest repair I have ever done. I couldn't even sleep thinking about the car because I finished late and didn't started until next morning

Car started and right away I noticed the gas smell was gone! I let it warm up for 7 min and went for a ride, second thing notice was hesitation was gone! Car has more power!

It's great doing this job, now I know this car alot more and doing valves for the first time it's very gratifying

Thanks everyone for this very useful place

By the way...





Yes, that stupid nut got loose and fell in between the valves!

 

Bravo Fithyper, exact same experience as me, just me I got it right the second time, three weeks later. Most complex thing I've ever done to a car, and such a useful accomplishment. And, yah, hehe, that gauge nut, the first screwdriver I used was a screwdriver head into a ratcheting holder. Dropped the screwdriver head in between the valves first time. Used solid driver subsequently.

 

Thanks, "radioarno"

Bro what were you thinking? ... For 10 min I couldn't find the damn bolt, I swear to god I was having a mini heart attack, until the magnet pick it up

 

Next time just buy this tool. I have it and it made the jobs so much easier.

10mm 7-1/2-Inch Jam Nut Valve Adjustment Tool
https://goo.gl/s8ueKv

 

I own this very same tool... Definitely helps at times. I wish it had a mini led in there somewhere to light up the head of the screw?! yes, I am spoiled

Completed the valve lash on the 2008 CR-V K24 a couple weekends ago. Exhaust was uber tight?! Intake wasn't too far off.

 

Question about valve adjustment:
My mpg has gone down since I adjusted the valves. I'm sure I loosened the exhaust valves correctly to the right tolerances, but I may have left the intake valves too loose, maybe around .008. Would loose intake valves affect my mpg?

 

What is the best setting for adjusting valves? Currently I have 0.007 intake and 0.011 exhaust, and I am not happy.

I am going to tighten the intake to 0.006. Should I also tighten exhaust?

According to service manual specs are-

• Intake: 0.006–0.007 in. (0.15–0.19 mm)
• Exhaust: 0.010–0.012 in. (0.26–0.30 mm)

 

I would not recommend tightening the exhaust valves. They get tighter over time on their own.

Along those lines, I probably would leave it alone all together. You could tighten the intake to .006, but I wouldn't go under the service manual specs.

Why are you not happy? As long as the gauge you are using is the correct thickness and you are measuring correctly, anything in the range of those specs should leave you with a very happy motor. If not, you may have something else going on.

 

You wont believe, I adjusted valves 4 times since last month.

First time I set them loose (dont remember how loose, within specs though), it felt good with low end torque, but after 2 weeks for some reason everything was back to like it was before.
After that I have just been experimenting with various settings. Engine doesnt feel peppy, idle is fine, but engine feels rough. Right now it is Intake 0.007" and exhaust 0.011".

I just want to do this one last time because I am tired to removing the manifold now. I hope intake 0.006" should fix my problem.

 

That makes me think the spark plugs may not be right. What plugs are you running and what is the gap?

 

something else is going on as gafit says. Lash-measuring technique, or something else.

 

Are these the specs for the GE (2008-2013) models? My Fit is a '13, and I am thinking about doing my first GE valve adjustment. (I have done adjustments on GDs.)