That's good to know. Thanks, 'Cazy.

BTW, do you happen to recall what shipping method they use? UPS perhaps?

 

One thing I could recommend when checking the clearance is to make sure that the rocker arms/adjustment screw isn't sticking or resting on the valve. When I did this adjustment, I would pull up the rocker arms, use the feeler gauge, make an adjustment, check adjustment and repeat until it was within spec. Does that make sense to you guys??

 

^^Yes, GD. It makes sense. I got more of an awareness of this when I did my valves the second time. As I said above, there is play in the rocker arm movement, even on a properly adjusted valve.

 

Would somebody mind explaining in laymen's terms how to find TDC of cyl #1 to start? I understand the rotate clockwise til #3 mark is on the horizontal plane of head but then #2 and #4? Is there a mark for those as well?

Thanks in advance.

 

Dean, when you get in there (or if you have a chance to look at the Service Manual), you will see that the cam shaft sprocket is clearly marked. TDC for Cylinder #1 is marked as "UP." The other cylinders are marked by their numbers (i.e., 2, 3, 4). However, the sequence is not in numerical order. First, you will adjust #1. Then, #3. Then, #2. Then, #4. This the sequence of markings on the sprocket (if I am recalling correctly). You just have to start at "UP" and proceed by turning the sprocket clockwise to whatever the next marking us.

I hope that's clear.

 

Just finished the valve adjustment. I'm meticulous and slow. I clean and inspect every little part so that takes more time than the actual wrenching. Still only took 5 hours from start to finish.

Here were my findings:
1
E1 - .006 E2 - .006
I1 - .006 I2 - .006
2
E1 - .006 E2 - .006
I1 - .008 I2 - .008
3
E1 - .004 E2 - .005
I1 - .007 I2 - .006
4
E1 - .006 E2 - .006
I1 - .006 I2 - .006

I have all exhaust valves adjusted to .011 now and all intake valves (except 3 I1 which was close enough) to .006. No discernable change in valvetrain noise.

Either the factory used the same spacer and set all valves to .006 or all of the exhaust valves had tightened over time.

While I had it apart, I changed the plugs to IK22's, put in a K&N air filter, and changed the oil. I can't even begin to explain the difference now. I'm sure it's half placebo affect, but the car actually spun the tires for the first time in two years. It even chirped the S-drives into second.

I have a fresh tank of gas and it's been averaging dead on 32.5. I'll report back and let everyone know if I see a change. I'm hoping it goes back to the 34ish it used to get.

 

can someone show us this picture by picture or by video thanks

 

The best $34 I ever spent was ordering the factory service manual on ebay from Lloyds. It gives you the pictures and directions that you need.

 

That sounds about right.

At what milage did you do this?

 

I know it was the best $75 I ever spent.

 

53,000. It was a little early for the adjustment, but the wife and kid were out of town so I had the time to do it and no one needed the car.

 

I did mine at 58k-ish.

Not too early. Just look at your numbers.

 

I agree, but many on here adhere to 10,000 mile oil changes and 100,000 mile plug changes. Those people have never sent in an oil analysis or seen what the plugs look like at 50,000 miles. The valves were clearly out of adjustment and the car now runs better with them corrected.

I'm sure a Fit will last many, many miles with no adjustment, but my total cost, ignoring the filter, oil change, and plugs, was around $6 for a new tube of OEM RTV sealant. That makes this a no brainer.

 

^^GAFIT, how does your engine sound?

Have you been following us on this thread -->>

https://www.fitfreak.net/forums/1st-...ml#post1051944

We've been hearing things.

 

No, I have the usual injector clatter and mild valvetrain noise, but nothing like that. Thats sounds like an exhaust leak from one cylinder to me.

I have owned 2 Ford's with that noise and both were exhaust leaks.

 

Exhaust leaks? What's the fix? Exhaust manifold gasket?

 

I would take it apart and inspect, but have an exhaust manifold gasket and donut for the manifold to downpipe ready.

First step is to see if the sound is louder behind the motor since that is where the exhaust is.

 

I want to thank everyone who contributed in this thread. While I'm only at 28k, it seems as if my valves have been clattering louder ever since I overrevved the engine a while back. I'll let everyone know the outcome tomorrow (I have the valve cover off, just waiting for the engine to dwell at ambient temperatures before adjusting).

 

mhadden, that looks very different from our '08. Wonder if the specs have changed? do you have a FSM to know what the recommended valve lash is?

 

You know, you're right. I didn't think that the clearances would be different since they were both L15's, despite the different "A" designations. I may not be doing this tonight (because I don't have the FSM and can't find a torrent or been able to google the proper clearance).

Poop.