Do you by chance have a picture of the hole with the wheel on and how you turned the ratchet without removing the wheel?




Thanks
Bill

 

^^It is not a hole, exactly. It is perforations in the plastic in a sort of star shape with a hole at the center.

If you turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, then look at the right wheel well with a flashlight, you should be able to see it.

I can't even remember if I took the right wheel off the last few times I did a valve adjustment. It's not a huge deal to take it off, and it will give you a little more room to work.

 

I wanted to thank everyone that has posted to this thread. I completed the valve adjustment and replaced the plugs. I got in and ran it without any issues, however, my wife who normally drives the car took it and said it still seems to hesitate after she stops for a short time like going to the store and then restarts the car. It hesitates at idle and when slowing down at a stop sign until the car warms us. Seems to be more noticeable when the air conditioner is on. The check engine light isn't coming on.


Any thoughts on what else may be the issue.


Can a trouble code be set without the engine light turning on?


Thanks
Bill

 

with a fresh valveadjustment, you should yank the battery negative cable for a little while, then do whats called the idle relearn procedure

once you hook the negative cable back up, fire up the carm let it idle. no lights, no radio, no blower fan, ntohing should be turned on.


It needs to sit a total of 5 minutes starting after the first time the radiator fan kicks on, and every time after the fan kicks on, stop the timer, you dont count the fan operation time in that 5 minutes

 

^^Do what he said.

If that does't work, did we discuss the issue of replacing coil packs?

 

Before spending money on ignition coil packs, pull a spark plug out and verify it is in normal condition. If it looks all carboned up or is wreaking of fuel, then I might say ignition coils are bad.

Each coil can be tested with a simple multimeter to verify simple stuff, like coil resistance

 

I've had her driving it a lot more and it only seems to slightly miss when the air conditioner is on. She doesn't notice a failure when it is off. If she continues to drive it do I still need to do the removal of the negative terminal or will it adjust from just driving it?


How do you test the coils?


What is the correct procedure for testing with an ohm meter?


If I have to replace the coil should I change the boots only or the whole coil assembly?


I appreciate all the help...


Bill

 

should be able to find the procedure in here
Honda Jazz / Honda Fit GE8 2009 onwards Online Repair Manual

Use internet explorer updated to latest version, or latest firefox or google chrome

 

I looked through the guide and can't find anything saying which pins to check and what the reading should be. Have you found anything that specifies which pins to check with an ohm guage?

 

Ok so at this point I have:
Adjusted valves
changed plugs
Did the learn Idle procedure and tightened the battery terminals


I still have a very small idle blip at a long stop sign with the air conditioner on and the car in drive. It appears to get worse the longer you drive the car. It seems to do fine when the air conditioner is off.


Are Coil packs the next step?


Has anyone used a ohm meter to check them? If so what pins should I connect the meter to and what readings should a good coil pack display?


Thank you ahead of time for your assistance
Bill

 

This could be normal. The air conditioner switches on and off. It's controlled by a thermostat. You have a small engine. It has to work (rev) when the a/c switches on.

 

my car doesnt really show any signs of the AC on, and I have filled engine mounts.

 

I wasnt able to find the coil diagnosis on that online manual.

How did you do the idle relearn? It must be done on an engine that is cold or has been sitting for several hours.

You make sure everything is off, and you turn the car on, and hold the engine at 3k rpm after a few seconds. you hold that rpm until the radiator fan kicks on. then you simply let it idle, start a timer for 5 minutes. Start it when the radiator fan kicks OFF. each time afterwards the fan kicks on, you stop the timer until it kicks off again. This 5minutes might take overall 8-10 minutes, depending on how long the fans spin.

Then you shut the car off, wait about a minute, then go on about your business

 

It didn't use to have any issues with the Air conditioner on. After doing the idle learning process the car is decelerating fine and with the air conditioner on it has a faster idle so all that is working well.


What do you all think about replacing the coils? I hate to spend the money but may have to.

 

I removed the coils and ohm tested them. They all read the same so I didn't see any reason to replace them. I noticed I could tighten down 2 of the plugs a little so tightened all of them multiple times to ensure they were all seated completely. Sprayed the coil and coil connectors with electrical contact cleaner and rotated the boot to make sure any corrosion was removed and I had good contact. Used Dielectric Tune-Up Grease on the boot and coil connector.


Drove car for 40 minutes and no rough idle with air on full, lights and radio on, car in drive with foot on the brake. I noticed an extremely slight and I mean slight idle adjust, but I think it might simply be either air conditioner clutch adjusting or idle sensing reading and adjusting. I'm really being critical here so really nothing noticeable if you weren't looking for it.


In summary. I think the original rough idle issue was the valves needing adjusting and replacing the plugs. The after math issues were solved by the steps above.


Tip: If you install new plugs tighten them at least 3 times after letting them set for a while between tightening to ensure they are completely seated....


My thanks to everyone that helped and posted to this forum.


Bottom line is the Honda dealer told me to replace plugs and adjust valves it would cost $600. I spent about $50 for plugs and misc items....


Bill

 

good deal that it was a minor fix!!

 

Good outcome, Bill. :thumb ups:

There have been rare anecdotal reports of spark plugs being loose or blowing out of the head or both. These instances, if real, smell of human error to me. Also, it could be that the design of the engine does not allow people to easily accesses the plugs — not as easily as on some other designs. It seems that Honda is, more and more, building cars for Honda factory mechanics to work on and no one else.

 

Well now I still have a slight rough idle when the engine is first started, until it has warmed up, however, I don't notice it after the engine is warmed up. Anything other than valve adjustment that can cause this?


Got to love it.... Any help would be appreciated.


I will probably tear the top off and recheck the valve clearance again just to make sure. The gaskets seem fine so probably won't replace them. Mark have you found you need to replace the gaskets?


Bill

 

I went through the valve adjustments again. I only found one off and it was only off .001. NO FIX. Still slight stutter at long idles at stop lights.


Any suggestions???????

 

I think it's time to suck it up and $hell out for a set of four Hitachi coils...