Same specs. I did my buddies GE and it was the same procedure except you have fewer rocker arms. If memory serves correct, the intake side is paired on each cylinder.

 

I just discovered that I had mistakenly installed 1 step hotter plug (heat level 5) by mistake. I ran them for about 1 month.
Just changed plugs (heat level 6). Its a little better now, hope there was no damage.

 

That will do it! These little motors like only iridium plugs and like them on the cold side.

Nothing runs better in ours than Denso IK22's gapped at .044. They are actually an NGK heat range of 7, so you were two heat ranges higher than what I have found to run best.

 

For the 2 intake valves, do you think it is good idea to set them different?

We know that first intake valve (left side) is always active and the 2nd valve is only activated at higher rpm.

How about setting 1st valve loose and 2nd valve tighter

This is to gain low speed torque for city and also take advantage vtec at higher rpms


And coming back to my original question from past week- what is the best setting for better low end torque?

 

What are you guys on about with putting different plugs in the car and changing valve measurements? This is a 1.5L Honda Fit engine. Unless you are a qualified tuner and know what you're doing, and how what you're doing will affect other aspects of engine performance, stop thinking you should do things differently than manufacturer spec. Honda has built engines for a very long time, they know what they are doing. You're not going to come up with a better spark plug or better valve clearances or a better oil filter or anything. Just do what the OEM suggests and stop worrying about trying to get 4.3978455 more horsepower out of your engine.

 

I just bought a 2009 Fit and before I picked it up I asked the dealer to do the adjustment. They charged me $230.
Was thinking of doing it myself if they said some high price, but given that the car has a lot of other stuff for me to do (cause it is about to hit 100k miles), I figured it was worth paying.

 

What is the best combo for low-end torque? How about Intake 0.006 and Exhaust 0.012 inch?

I was going through temple of vtec and they say that valves should be tight

https://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=143824&page_number=3

 

More clearance equals more torque and less clearance equals more horsepower.

That being said...set them within Honda's specs and remember that the intake valves are going to loosen over time and the exhaust valves will tighten over time. Due to that I would not set the intakes towards the loose end or the exhausts towards the tight end. They will end up out of spec too quickly.

For me, I aim for the middle of the spec on all. I'd rather just have a proper running engine than hunt for that extra .02whp.

 

I did this yesterday. Car seems to run much better and it got rid of my idle misfire on cold starts, though I did go ahead and change out the 100k mile plugs with NGK irridiums. If you're mechanically inclined enough to want to do this yourself, you probably can. It's not very difficult, just time consuming. Took me like 3 hours including quite a few interruptions but I have worked as a mechanic before so add a couple of hours if you've never turned a wrench before, lol.

 

Finally got it right and a few lessons learnt.

1 - Always stay within specs
2 - I set intake at 0.007 inch with higher drag (as they get loose)
3 - I set exhaust at 0.012 inch with mild drag (as they tighten)

Engine feels smoothest with this setting along with best mileage.

 

@generican. thanks for the feedback provided.
Can you tell me how is the low end torque for city driving as when I used the same setting the last time, I felt the engine being too rough and the engine struggling to pick up acceleration.
it also felt sluggish. I have now reverted to .006 inch intake and 0.011 inch exhaust.
but now the low end torque is not too great but engine feels more free and willing to rev more.

Please advice your feedback on torque at low end and high end.
did you try the different settings for the left and right intake valves?

thanks

 

Thanks for all the detailed tips and DIY steps. Just did my first valve adjustment at 70K. Intake clearance we're all reasonable, but some of the exhaust were way out of spec. Some were at 0.006 and 0.007. It did it about 3 times since each time I would find a little bit out of spec. I might do the valve adjustment again next oil change since I feel like I could still use some practice.

I noticed one of my coilpacks were very discolored and needed replacement. I ended up changing all the spark plugs and the discolored coilpack. This is the second time i've had an issue with the coilpack. Hopefully the valve adjustment helps fix this issue.

 

^^Good to hear that, Han.

What year is your Fit?

 

2007. I forgot to mention the engine seems to rev up smoother but I also changed the ATF recently.

 

 

this post has helped me tremendously in doing my own repairs to my newly acquired 2009 Honda Fit sport 173k miles. Price was right and ran ok. Gonna use it as a beater to keep the miles off my new diesel.

I did the valve adjustment -I uploaded a photo of the top of my motor and doesnt look it been maintained like it should. It had a bad/loud knocking sound at 3000 rpm but the adjustment fixed it. The intakes were around 010 and I set to around 015mm. I still cant believe that adjusting the valves fixed it... I just knew the motor was doomed.

I have a couple other small issues but the main thing concerned with at the moment is the wobbly stick shifter (car is manual).... I am hunting the part #(s) for the parts I need to tighten it up. Maybe bushings etc

 

I remember when I was 20 and adjusting the valves per the manual. Then I took it to the dealer as they adjusted them perfectly one time before. The next time I went to the dealer, I wait for my car to be service and just walked into the shop and the mechanic showed be how he did it.
Turning the crank just a 90 degrees each time is wrong, he said put one valve at the top of the lobe and the other valve will be a the bottom. Then adjust that rocker. Rotate engine and repeat for the next valve. He had a remote start switch

I bought a $20 remote starter switch from Napa. Just unplug the fuel relay and connect to the S terminal on the starter and the positive on the battery and its super easy to turn the engine over and go through all the valves quickly. Don't forget the key stays in the off position too.
Tip: I use some long needle nose pliers to attach the clamp to the starter.

 

I'm going to tackle this job today, 2011 with 215K miles

 

Definitely a good idea with that mileage!

 

if done properly, you will be shocked how much better it runs. Post up afterwards how tight your exhaust valves were.