Maybe you know what the problem would be..

So two nights ago.. I was driving up a hill and all of a sudden I gas but nothing happens.. the car just shut down on me. I threw it in park and heard loud clicking noise. I was able to restart the car and drive.

This morning I was backing out of my driveway and the car shut down again. I put it in park, restart and everything appears to be ok.

I noticed that when it’s idling, there’s a faint clicking noise.

Both times it happened, the car was cold and I hadn’t driven it for 10 or more hours. The first time my gas was near empty and I was going uphill so I thought maybe the car tilted back and no gas went to the engine. The second time happened on a full tank while i was backing out of my drive way.

What could the problem be? Fuel injector issue? Loose wires?

I have an 2006 or 2007 Fit. I think I biught in 06 but it's an 07 model, the first year it came out.

 

The clicking noise when the car is idling, if coming from the engine, might be ordinary valve noise; when the engine is cold (and more so when it's colder than normal), the valves will be a a little noisy if they're properly adjusted.

The loud clicking noise when you put it in park is obviously something different. If you were still moving a bit, it's the parking brake pawl in the transmission ratcheting; that's not good for it, and is why you should come to a full stop before shifting into park. If you were completely stopped and it was just one click or clunk, it's probably just some mechanical noise from the transmission that you probably haven't noticed before (either because it's masked by engine noises and such, or because you don't usually park on a hill).

Do you have the original battery in your Fit? If so, that would be my first guess; it's at the end of its useful life, or perhaps beyond it. If it's not that, there are a whole bunch of things that could cause stalling.

By the way, you don't have to shift into park to restart the engine; you can also start it in neutral. That's usually better if it dies while you're driving along, as you can coast while restarting.

 

How many miles are on the car and have you adjusted the valves yet? You should do it by 100k miles at least.

If it happens when the car's cold and then everything's fine after it's warmed up, the valves may be out of spec.

Mine used to have a rough idle on cold starts but would go away after a few minutes. I adjusted the valves and it was immediately fixed. Other people have had the same experience, some like yours where it was severe enough for the engine to stall.

 

How do i adjust the valve? I have 60k miles on it. My biggest concern is the car dying as im driving. The clacking sounds was due to me not completely stopped and putting it into park.

The last two times it happened was when the car was cold, but its never happened before. Whennit happens, its like the whole car is turned off.. No lihjts.. I had to manually turn on the inside lights..

What is the eqsiest way to check to see if my battery is at its end?
If bAttery is the issues, shouldn't i have this problem at all time? Im just trying to eliminate some possibilities.

 

which valves to adjust?

 

The valves are the intake and exhaust valves, under the valve cover on the engine. If you aren't all that handy or mechanically inclined, it's probably best to have a mechanic do that job. Searching the forums here should bring up some nice pictures and descriptions of what's involved; a Haynes or Chilton's manual (or Honda service manual) would also explain the procedure reasonably well. Many public libraries have Haynes/Chilton's manuals, and any could get one via inter-library loan.

Winter weather is more demanding on car batteries for a few reasons. Lead acid batteries inherently have a lower capacity at low temperatures, and the engine is harder to start (because the oil is thicker and there's generally more friction to overcome). You're also more likely during the winter to be using high-current accessories more, such as the headlights and rear window defogger grid.

If the battery has not been replaced in seven years or so, it's undoubtedly approaching the end of its useful life. Replacing it may not solve your problems, but it won't be money wasted, either. Many auto parts stores will perform battery tests for you for free. Whether they carry a replacement battery of the right size is a different question; the Fits have a bit of an unusual size.

 

If you don't know what valves to adjust, it would probably be best if you bring it into a shop and pay them to do it.

 

60K on an 07?! Amazing. Does the car exhibit any other electrical issues?

Tried running a good fuel injector cleaner through? Maybe a good SeaFoam treatment in the crankcase?

 

I just use it as a commuter car. Yes, I no longer can use my Sport feature and my Cruise control does not work.

Any recommendation on a good fuel injector brand?

 

[QUOTE=GoFits;1161217]60K on an 07?! Amazing. Does the car exhibit any other electrical issues?

I purchased my 2007 Fit in July 2006 and have just under 50K on it.. The original battery is still good..

 

49.7k on the clock and bought new 02/08 here. Original battery above the snowbelt! Started in -1F recently to boot.

Poor cold compression from valve lash way out of spec could be the culprit.

 

we had a similar problem in our 2008 fit,ended up being a loose ground wire near the throttle body (the clicking we heard was like an electrical arcing kind of sound )