HAHA! Truth!

 

you'll get the same results for less money (not much less, but still) using mobil 1 and a quality filter.

Royal Purple synthetic (the normal stuff you likely got) has a tendency to really thin out over time. Not the best oil you can get, but very good nonetheless.

Check out Bob Is the Oil Guy (website, google it) for reviews on good oils.

Right now, Pennzoil Platinum is getting excellent reviews for wear and test results.

 

hey i just bought 5 quarts of rp and the rp oil filter for my Fit.

my new engine has about 20,000 miles. I have not changed the oil yet. (i got it at 15xxx miles.)

is it safe at my next oil change to change straight from conventional oil to synthetic? would that harm the engine? or would i need to go to a synthetic blend 1st, then at THAT oil change switch to royal purple?

Understand me? Ive NEVER dealt with synthetic oils.

Now say once I do go full synthetic. Do I have to forever stay with synthetic oil for the sake of this motor or would I be able to switch back to conventional? and or vice versa?

Also I read on this topic the oil intervals are much higher than conventional? change every 10thousand miles! thats nuts? is that true?

thanks

A

 

you can just switch over the the synthetic no problem. waiting 10 thousand miles between oil changes is possible but i would not recommend it. 6-7 thousand miles is more realistic.

there is a big debate between switching between conventional and synthetic but the truth is that you can switch between the two. its not the best way to do things but technically you can. i just dont recommend that either.

 

i just did the first oil change on my car as well, decided to go with RP. although i cant notice too much diff in a power increase i do notice the motor runs a lot smoother.

 

you will never notice a power increase when changing motor oils. its there little sales pitch to buy their brand. you would notice a differance when changing to a lighter weight oil though but 5w20 is already pretty light stuff.

 

I wish I knew what the dealer put in mine, whatever it is has been worth a consistent 5 mpg hit. The paper said 5w20 but I bet its 10w30. I thought it might be cold weather driving but it was still warm when the mileage dropped, plus last week I drove 200 miles in a day (mostly highway) and averaged 32 mpg instead of the 30 I have been getting. A far cry from the 36 mpg I was getting daily and 40+ highway.

I'm gonna try mobil1 5w20 and we'll see what happens. I know their 10w30 was good for 2 mpg average increase on the ej civic but that was in part due to its resistance to the old engine breaking it down.

I did use RP Syncromax once in the S40 tranny. It shifted like butter, had a very noticeable difference in power, cleaned all the sludge out (visually verified before-after), but it tried to eat the bearing cages. Too thin for that plastic I think. The bearing inside 4th gear got particularly loud.

 

with my car and the turbo i used to run mobil 1 cuz i thought it was the best, but i was wrong it burned oil like crazy i switched over to RP and oil burning is %110 gone, RP=FTW

 

what weight of rp are you running gd3kamiwanaB?
im thinking of switching to the greddy 5w30 for my soon to be turbo.

 

I've been using 5W-20 Castrol Syntec. It's been working out well for me.

 

i run 5 30 as well

 

greddy oil is really really good oil, but the color of it makes it difficult for visual inspection of how dirty it is. i have recently switched to eneos and its nice to be able to see all the carbon in my oil so i know when it really needs replacing.

 

i bought 5 quarts of 5w20 of the purple juice

its winter here in jersey with some lows in single digits

is that oil weight fine for my car?
why do people run 5w30?

 

turbo guys run 5w30 oil cause when the oil heats up it begins to thin out so you need a little thicker oil to help lubricate the hot turbo.

how long have you been running the eneos oil kelso?

 

ive been running eneos for about 1500 miles. but i am a crazy person that always changes his oil at 1k or every two months, whichever one comes first. the last time i drained the eneos, there was still greddy oil residue in there. instead of coming out yellow, like the eneos, or blue like the greddy, it came out green. hahaha. i think the greddy was better oil tho. the eneos seems like it gets kinda thin at temp. and the greddy oil has more certifications from car manufacturers than eneos.

 

ok. well the rp is hard to tell the condition cause it is already purple so i think i will stick with the greddy oil cause they build turbos too and they might know something about oil with a FI setup.

 

haha actually, the greddy 5w30 oil is made for NA cars. the 5w40 is made for aftermarket FI cars and the 10w60 is for +650HP engines. but thats just what they say. 5w40 didnt run very smoothly in my fit. i used it for the turbo break in period but its just too thick for the L15. heres a little excerpt from greddy about their oils.


GR Synthetic Oil is made from the finest automotive grade, Group IV, PAO and Ester base oils and specially designed additive packages, the GR oil is designed specifically to protect and enhance modern, small displacement, high horsepower engines. GR-3, the 5W-30 is ideal for high revving normally-aspirated engines, like VTEC Hondas. GR-2, 5W-40 works great for stock or bolt-on turbo kits, while the flagship GR-1, 10W60 is geared towards super high horsepower built-engines with high boost. GR synthetic oil can be purchased at any Authorized GReddy Dealer.

GR-1, 10W-60 oil is highly shear-stable engine oil that offers exceptional engine protection in performance driving conditions. This is especially important when protecting highly modified balanced and blueprinted engines, with forged pistons and bored cylinders. This 10W-60 oil contains special additive packages to protect high-power, high-acceleration, racing cars; including: +650hp front wheel drive Drag cars to +1000hp High Speed 0-300km/h Supras and Skylines.

GR-2, 5W-40 can be used in all turbocharged or naturally aspirated gasoline and diesel engines used in performance cars. It is recommended for use in rallying, motor racing and other arduous driving conditions such as sustained high-speed motoring, or in slow moving, dense traffic conditions. GR-2 oil contains special additive packages and a PAO and Ester base to maintain smooth RPM response, even though it maybe a heavier weight oil then factory recommend. GR-2 provides need protection for bolt-on and upgraded turbo and supercharger kits for all makes.

GR-3, 5W-30 is recommended for use in rallying, motor racing and other arduous driving conditions such as sustained high-speed motoring, or in slow moving, dense traffic conditions, for all naturally aspirated engines, especially those with multi-valves. GReddy GR-3 is high performance lightweight oil, which protects while reducing friction whatever the RPM. Engines with advanced cylinder heads, including oil actuated camshafts and camshaft-timing designs, benefit highly from the consistent oil pressure of GR-3, even under high temperatures.

Greddy - Founded and Driven by Racers

 

thanks kelso. i will rep you for that.

i think i will stick with the greddy oil. i got the greddy gauges so i mind as well just stick with one company on my turbo built. im now looking for the real greddy rs BOV.

 

Any cons to running a 5w30 oil instead of the 5w20 in a stock motor?
I'm convinced the 5w20 is only to yield better fuel economy and not great for engine life.

I'm almost at 12,000 miles now and ready to drain the oil again (3k intervals). Right now, at 11,770 miles, my oil is a very nice golden caramel color.
I will continue using the Castrol GTX oil until the 15,000 mark and then I will switch over to synthetic at that point I will then change at the 5k intervals.
I haven't decided on which synthetic but I have narrowed down to these favorites:

Redline
Mobil 1
Greddy


My other issue, where the hell are the good 15400-PLM-A01 filters?
I just ordered some and received the A02's, damn Honeywell units.

I guess I'm going to have to shell out extra money for a K&N.

 

Cons for running 5W30 in a stock motor would include a slight gas mileage hit. There is absolutely no problem running 5W20 in your motor, though. That's what Honda has spec'd for years now and I have yet to hear anything indicating that using the stock spec oil can cause anything but a reliable, fuel efficient vehicle that can last for generations .

I've got some sources for articles, if your interested, discussing this topic. What it comes down to is that thinner oil is almost always better, until you get to the point where the oil pump can't build sufficient pressure. Remember, it's not the measured oil line pressure that floats the bearings, it's the film strength. That film strength is much more related to flow than it is to line pressure, and thinner oil flows better.

That said, I run M1 5W30 (with a M1 extended performance filter) in my turbo car, as I can hit much higher temperatures than a stock car, and the thicker grade oil brings me closer to the stock viscosity spec (at the stock oil temperatures).

One other thing I would add is that changing your oil at 3k is probably a waste. Honda has been using the same type of oil minder system for years, and they designed it with a stock motor and CONVENTIONAL oil in mind, with a factor of saftey on top of that. Synthetic oil is miles ahead of conventional oil in nearly every category - especially viscosity breakdown and resistance to contamination.