Hi there,
don't know if this is best thread to post but I was thinking what a pity was the lack of a timing advance option in F/IC, given its completeness.+

So, tell me if I'm getting mad but, should I trick the IAT sensor as if air was cooler, ECU would advance timing by itself (perhaps too much). In that case the FIC would be good to retard such altered and advanced timing, wouldn't it? Basically, the idea is to add a positive almost eccessive bias towards advanced timing with a resistor and "tune" by decreasing it with timing retard functions given by FIC.

What do you think about this?

TIA,

 

more info to add to this.
out of no where, i was having a whole bunch of problems. alot of random CEL and misfire codes. car was running liek shit, lean at 18+ a/f.
everyhitng mechanically was fine. spent all day diagnosing it, depending how i would hold the fic, the car would run fine. ended up bring the female harness pins inside the harness where it plugs into the fic....they were loose (too large?). i used a pick and collaspsed them slightly to make them tighter. now running perfect.

my lean throttle tip in is also gone.

 

Glad you sorted, also because I was planning to get the F/IC.
What do you think of my idea of using it also for a NA, by artificially adding (resistor) a fixed positive bias to timing, and using the F/IC to reduce it?

 

eh...its hard enough making the FIC run 100% correctly. i woudnt want to add in another variable (resistor) to possible make it more difficult.

but good luck.

 

hi, hope u still remember me.,
I had sent u my FIC map a year back.
Currently i understand that my workshop mechanic had wired the FIC and ECU to the way is that:
my fuel map only adjust on my extra injector.
What abt my stock 4 injectors, how to control among of fuel?
Is it MAF?

 

the aem instructions have different ways to wire in extra injectors or intercepting the OEM injectors and adding fuel that way.

sounds liek your shop wired in injectors in teh "secondary injector" way. without knowing how your shop wired it, i cant really tell you what to do.

your gonna need to ask him how her wired it and go from there.
heres the instructions of the FIC.
http://tunertools.com/prodimages/AEM...0-1910_FIC.pdf

you want page 6.

im not a fan on adding injectors. i suggest you take out the added injectors, get a set of 4 larger ones, replace the OEM injectors with larger ones and add your fuel that way. wire up the FIC the "primary fuel injector" way.
remember, firing order is 1,3,4,2
so injector input/output 1 on the FIC tap to injecotor 1 on the ecu.
injector input/output 2 on teh fic, taps to injector 3
injector input/output 4 on teh fic, taps to injector 4
injector 4 input/output on the fic, taps to injector 2

:thumb:

 

yes i know thre is many way to connect the wiring.
The problem is the guys who does this had resigned.
In my country and neighbour country, no one know how to tune this.
In local, famous in brand: unichip, or Emanage or motec.
Market here for mod car is small, that why not much to choose.
I don;t know why i choose AEM, maybe can self login to tune abit.

Anyway, my extra injector can made A/F ratio 11:1 already. Acoording to theory, 11:1 is the best for torque and i met the requirement. Why changing all injectors is still better?
instead of chaning injectors, most local workshop asked me to add 4 extra injectors at indiv cylinder. Maybe i guess there don;t know how to control the stock ECU signal, that why adding 4 extra?????

before mod: 0-100 km/h = 13 sec
after mod : 11 sec
same displacment car : Mit. Colt 1.5cc turbo w CVT auto can hit 8.5 sec,
so big different. but base on A/F ratio, i met the requirement of fuel.

pls advise. i think no one can tune my AEM anymore.

 

i recommend replacing your OEM injectors with larger ones for the simple reason of less things to go wrong, less parts added, less problems.

for example...whats the injectors duty cycle of that one extra injector? how do you know your not maxed out? a peaked out injector can fail quickly...and since your car is 100% dependant on that 1 injector, your motor will lean out instantly.

also, adding injectors in the intake manifold will give you an uneven fuel spray pattern. some cylinders amy run hot since your unsure how much fuel is goign to which cylinder.

adding a full set or 4 extra injectors is just rediculous. why woudlnt you just replace your 4 oem injectors with larger ones? that jsut makes no sense to me. expecially if your able to reach your target a/f of 11:1.

 

Yes, this is what i look for. But changing injectors, does it need to retune?
If yes, I need to change the whole Piggyback as mention no one know how to tune.

Changing piggyback is big amount.

 

normalyy swapping injectors, you can jsut scale down a map to the new injector size...but you shoudl get a retune.

if your going from a setup of additional injectors, to getting rid of the additional and replacing the stock injectors...you definatly need a retune, as well as the FIC rewired.

 

Noted, so i have to change piggyback too.
By the way, for iginition map , every -1 stand for delay 1 sec of firing?
when should i give more negative?

 

maybe its a language barrier translation... if you have a -1 in the ignition map, your pulling 1 degree of timing.

a good rule of thumb is to pull 1 degree of timimg for every psi
at 1psi, you want -1
at 2psi you want -2
etc...

a tuner will adjust this to make you more power, but for a start that will be safe.

 

Thank for yr important note.
So does it mean -1 = 1 degree earlier then stock timing to give fuel before TDC ?

By the way, since is road tuning, does it mean i had to close look out for boost and add accordingly?

2) lastly, My car is remain slow as NA , is due to tuning wrong or hardware setup issue?

 

1. the car doesnt run at TDC. so when your pulling timing (-1, -2,etc) your pulling timing from what the car woudl normally be finctioning at during that parameter.
to be honest, im not 100% on timing, how to explain it and how exactly it works.
but yes, you want to subtract timing from the cars normal settings.

2. i have no idea what your asking. lol
i think your saying your car is turboed but as slow as before the turbo?
based on what? dyno #'s? jsut the "feel"? do you have gauges? what PSI are you running? any boost leak?

you should definatly feel an increase in power. i blew an intercooler pipe off the other day. besides the bang under the hood, i felt a dramatic decrease in power (obviosly i wasnt holding boost). if boosted feels the same as NA, you have somthign wrong.

 

Abit faster then NA.
But my wife's car also Fit 1.3 Manual turbo.
Faster then mine 1.5 CVT, totally lost. But I don't think CVT is issue
as some sport car also running CVT and can hit below 8 sec for 0-60

 

Could someone PM me some basemaps, will probably be going turbo pretty soon and would like a head start.

 

...ahem, well, I mean I realize this message is two years old... bear with me.

Anyway, did you find a way to trick secondary O2 sensor, letting you idle leaner w/o throwing error codes?

Can we use Analog A or B for mapping secondary O2?

Another banal question: is TPS input signal fed up by the ETCS?

Thanks a lot,

 

Hi again,
I understand that A31 is the pin for front O2 sensor, is it?

Which is the pin on which the ECU senses rear O2 sensor resadings? Perhaps A28?

Do anybody have a more detailed ECU pinout index? I was not able to find any on FF...

TIA,

 

is this the F/IC people are using
AEM F/IC Fuel Ignition Controller

If not, can someone pls tell me which one. Thanks

 

I and at least a few others are using the 30-1910.