I smoked a lamborghini superleggera







.. on the road course.. just sayin haha

 

Hmm if the cams opened up 2-3lbs/min would you have enough injector to fuel it?

I think If you added 10* duration on the Intake lobes, and 6-8* on the exhaust, something like .03-.05" lift with steeper ramp rates, you could very well see a 25-40HP bump at the flywheel @ the same boost.

Now if you found a way to raise the rev-limit to 7500-8k, the gains would be more dramatic of course.

This is ASSuming everything else can support that, of course.

Personally, unless you are looking at a smaller pulley and a reflash I would consider keeping the duration the same, but with steeper ramp rates and shimming the lifters .03-.05" (if the PTV clearances allow for it) this way you would keep your mid range and low end torque, possibly increasing it, and for sure seeing gains up top with more room to breathe.

Too much duration and your effective compression will suffer (which I am sure you are aware of ), thus you could lose some of the area under the curves, even though your peaks have increased.

This seems like a great and relatively cheap way to pick up some real power for our 1.5L's, cheap if you do the work yourself that is

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I am really curious to see what Randull has to say regarding my last couple PMs for the manifold inquiry, which so far seems to be going somewhere!

If he and Bisimoto could pull this off they would effectively have ended the hostage situation that HKS/T1R et al. have created by not selling their manifolds seperately.

Once that is done there already exists plenty of parts, info and support to create your own turbo kits for the GD3's! I am positive that once I can get some results out and demonstrate the Dollars/HP I am anticipating based on past DIY turbo projects, this could lead to some really wild and unique Fits in the future.

The components and flanges I am discussing with him would allow nearly any MHI/Garrett-Honeywell/Holset/BorgWarner-Airwerks, etc. that will squeeze back there to bolt right up.

So swapping between anything from a DBB GT25R (24-27lbs/min) to a MHI 20G-TDO6SL2 (~48-51lbs/min) should be a simple bolt-on affair, assuming you have the requisite fuel, engine and tuning mods to support that extra airflow.

 

Oh please tell me there is Video!

 

price??? range

 

Can the stock valve springs and retainers handle the Bisimoto billet cams?
If not, do you sell stiffer valve springs and retainers?
The last thing I need is a wrecked head.

 

Give Randall or Bisi a call. Valvefloat will do more than just take out your head on an interference engine.

 

from bisimoto engineering's website, i can see that they offer a few different range of internals for the L15A (GD3) including parts such as connecting rods, pistons, valve springs and retainers.

but after all the discuss on honda fit, have anyone actually got them to regrind their Fit camshafts?

 

Did you see their ported Head!???? Gorgeous!!!

PORTFLOW STANDARD HONDA HEADWORK, L15A, LEA1 : Bisimoto Engineering, Where Efficiency Meets Technological Perfection

Marko!!

 

The polish leading into the runners looks good.. but look around the valve seats, it looks like they left a lot of shrouding.

Looks really nice though!

Did they flowbench it to show what gains @ what lift?

 

I wonder what they charge.

 

Unless they CNC'd it you can do what they did with a dremel, sand paper, brake cleaner, drill press, diamond paste and some free time!

I do my own cylinder heads

 

I have done a few motorcycle heads but only one 4 valve per cylinder... The results were great but eyeballing and matching 4 of them is a bit intimidating.

 

I'd be interested, if only the shipping is reasonable

 

If i remember right it was 850$ so maybe... 830$ canadian!! eheheh!! Done by Portflow... I've heard some positive comments about them!!

Marko!!

 

Holy shucking fit! $800?

I'll do it for $500 and have it flow benched for you lol

You can buy assembled cylinder heads for less! I think Bisi knows he can rape us on prices when he looks around this forum and see what people are willing to pay for even cosmetic bits!

 

If you look at the built short blocks the pricing isn't the worst I've ever seen. It'd be nice to make 4-500 whp and not have to deal with the messed up weight balance of a k20.

 

Sleeve your L15A, throw down on some new conrods, pistons, bolts, bearings and some headwork. Then run some real boost. None of this pussy 12-14psi non-sense.

There is only a ~500cc difference between the L15 and K20, and you would need to turbo either to make +400whp. In the big scheme of things there is little difference between the two once boost is added.

You do not need a K20 to reach those numbers, and there is already a 440whp built block L15A1 in Indonesia. But everybody here just wants a little bolt-on kit.

There is no mystery here, if you want real power from your L15A the parts exist and Bisimoto is not the only group that carries them.. Darton Sleeves, Wiseco pistons, etc. are already available.

People have been pushing 1200whp+ from 1.5L engines since the 1980's F1 Turbo era.

400whp is chump change 30 years later. If you are actually serious about it, you can do it with parts available today.

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Before anyone hops in here for some nay-saying.. go do some research before you try and flame me or argue. There is already precedent for all of this.

 

Ive seen a 404 wheel hp k20, The block was stock and ran 20 pounds of boost using C16. They ran it at the track for a month. Its not street legal and the cost of motor(they had motor) and smart shopping costs 1800 or so. It would not hold out on the street with that much boost unless the block was built up, then the fuel issue.

I was surprised about how much abuse the K20 stood up too, but that was 1 run at a time plus dyno time.

 

1800 is not bad, but you can get an L15A long block for 600-1000 if you buy it from a junkyard.

Was the car not street legal? Because unless we are talking about emissions there is really no way to deem an engine as not street legal. Except maybe in California.

20lbs of boost is not even worth using C16. Why do you say the block wouldn't hold up? 4G63's and K20's are very stout.

Though to be fair while there are a few 500whp stock K20's none of them are running 9's like the 500whp stock 4G63's and there are far more stock 4G63 long blocks making that power than there are K20's

I am currently running 28-29psi on pump 93 (no meth or toluene at the moment) in my 2.0L...

Do you remember the 1030 whp dyno graphs for that Honda B18 I posted up a few weeks back? That engine is still running strong after 2 seasons of drag use and many dyno runs.

It is all in the build and the tune as to whether or not the motor will last.

Sorry I haven't gotten to your PM yet, I keep getting distracted!

 

that's pretty much EXACTLY what I just said....lol.

you could do all the work yourself and save some coin, but the built short block from bisi is proven and saves a lot of down time if the fit is your DD...plus it's just easy.

also, like I said, no messed up weight distribution like you see in the k20 fits.

Trust me man, I know how to build an engine, I have a boosted b18 in my teggy, had a sprayed camaro, had a 90 tsi putting out about 400, and a supercharged tib. Every car I've built myself, every car was a monster.