Turbo GD : What clutch are you guys running?
i have a stage 2 exedy and it has worked pretty good. a week after i put the clutch in my mounts went bad. couldnt handle the transfer of power. so i got innovative 85a motor mounts. but overall im pretty happy with what i got. i have to get another one now though. used it for bout 35k miles... time for a new clutch.
Granted the Fit does not have a whole lot of torque, but some of you will be seeing in excess of 175lb-ft, and this makes it easy to slip or even glaze the clutch.
This is even easier with an aluminum flywheel, you can also overheat and warp the friction surface on an aluminum wheel. Especially those with replaceable friction steels like some Fidanzas, because the metals expand/contract at dramatically different rates.
I would really like to see a Chromoly option from a group like ACT..
As long as you dont have a kevlar disk/aluminum flywheel combo though you should be good as long as you let the clutch cool down for a minute or two between hard pulls.
If you do glaze your clutch you can sometimes re-bed it by driving gingerly for a hundred miles or so.
A six puck sprung disc with the stock pressure plate and a stock flywheel would be best for street/track guys.
This way you have almost a full face disk, but you save weight with the pucked design, and having the same clamping force distributed over a smaller area means higher torque capacity with a streetable clutch pedal/engagement.
The lighter pucked discs will help shifting at 6k+ as well, less dragging.
This is even easier with an aluminum flywheel, you can also overheat and warp the friction surface on an aluminum wheel. Especially those with replaceable friction steels like some Fidanzas, because the metals expand/contract at dramatically different rates.
I would really like to see a Chromoly option from a group like ACT..
As long as you dont have a kevlar disk/aluminum flywheel combo though you should be good as long as you let the clutch cool down for a minute or two between hard pulls.
If you do glaze your clutch you can sometimes re-bed it by driving gingerly for a hundred miles or so.
A six puck sprung disc with the stock pressure plate and a stock flywheel would be best for street/track guys.
This way you have almost a full face disk, but you save weight with the pucked design, and having the same clamping force distributed over a smaller area means higher torque capacity with a streetable clutch pedal/engagement.
The lighter pucked discs will help shifting at 6k+ as well, less dragging.
Granted the Fit does not have a whole lot of torque, but some of you will be seeing in excess of 175lb-ft, and this makes it easy to slip or even glaze the clutch.
This is even easier with an aluminum flywheel, you can also overheat and warp the friction surface on an aluminum wheel. Especially those with replaceable friction steels like some Fidanzas, because the metals expand/contract at dramatically different rates.
I would really like to see a Chromoly option from a group like ACT..
As long as you dont have a kevlar disk/aluminum flywheel combo though you should be good as long as you let the clutch cool down for a minute or two between hard pulls.
If you do glaze your clutch you can sometimes re-bed it by driving gingerly for a hundred miles or so.
A six puck sprung disc with the stock pressure plate and a stock flywheel would be best for street/track guys.
This way you have almost a full face disk, but you save weight with the pucked design, and having the same clamping force distributed over a smaller area means higher torque capacity with a streetable clutch pedal/engagement.
The lighter pucked discs will help shifting at 6k+ as well, less dragging.
This is even easier with an aluminum flywheel, you can also overheat and warp the friction surface on an aluminum wheel. Especially those with replaceable friction steels like some Fidanzas, because the metals expand/contract at dramatically different rates.
I would really like to see a Chromoly option from a group like ACT..
As long as you dont have a kevlar disk/aluminum flywheel combo though you should be good as long as you let the clutch cool down for a minute or two between hard pulls.
If you do glaze your clutch you can sometimes re-bed it by driving gingerly for a hundred miles or so.
A six puck sprung disc with the stock pressure plate and a stock flywheel would be best for street/track guys.
This way you have almost a full face disk, but you save weight with the pucked design, and having the same clamping force distributed over a smaller area means higher torque capacity with a streetable clutch pedal/engagement.
The lighter pucked discs will help shifting at 6k+ as well, less dragging.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
cnordt24
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
12
May 10, 2015 10:30 PM
ride_the_pony69
Fit Engine Modifications, Motor Swaps, ECU Tuning
0
Sep 10, 2007 02:36 AM
