Headlight Adjustment (its a must!!!!)
#81
11-07-2007, 09:08 PM
Mine Do Not Lok Like That, Mine Are 8mm Hex Nuts In About The Same Location As The Ones In The Picture, On The Drivers Side There Is A Black Plastic Cover That Snaps Off Covering It. Remove Cover And Look Behind Light Assembly And You Will See It. I Used A Little 8mm Box Wrench To Get At It, Youcan Only Turn It About An 1/4 Turn At A Time Due To Space Restrictions. I Put In Ge Nighthawk Bulbs, They Were No Better Then The Factory Ones. Good Luck Larry.
#82
11-08-2007, 03:31 AM
Mine Do Not Lok Like That, Mine Are 8mm Hex Nuts In About The Same Location As The Ones In The Picture, On The Drivers Side There Is A Black Plastic Cover That Snaps Off Covering It. Remove Cover And Look Behind Light Assembly And You Will See It. I Used A Little 8mm Box Wrench To Get At It, Youcan Only Turn It About An 1/4 Turn At A Time Due To Space Restrictions. I Put In Ge Nighthawk Bulbs, They Were No Better Then The Factory Ones. Good Luck Larry.
thanks =] i will attempt once i figure out if i am going to get HIDs or not to see if ill need to leave them low like they are
cuz my car is dropped so the car is angled down
#83
01-15-2008, 12:34 AM
thank you!!!!! i've been trying to figure this crap out! cause i'm glaring like a mother f*cker!
#84
01-15-2008, 02:10 AM
Mine Do Not Lok Like That, Mine Are 8mm Hex Nuts In About The Same Location As The Ones In The Picture, On The Drivers Side There Is A Black Plastic Cover That Snaps Off Covering It. Remove Cover And Look Behind Light Assembly And You Will See It. I Used A Little 8mm Box Wrench To Get At It, Youcan Only Turn It About An 1/4 Turn At A Time Due To Space Restrictions. I Put In Ge Nighthawk Bulbs, They Were No Better Then The Factory Ones. Good Luck Larry.
I still so need to do this headlight adjustment mod!!
#85
02-11-2008, 04:09 PM
dewalt- thanks for the picts. im going to try this tonight if it's not
snowing.
ever since installing my progress bar my rake is alittle more now
due to the screw heads and need to aim the headlamp a little
further upward.
snowing.
ever since installing my progress bar my rake is alittle more now
due to the screw heads and need to aim the headlamp a little
further upward.
#86
02-11-2008, 10:58 PM
guys, thanks again for posting this up. fixed my aim tonight and
things are much better.
as far as mine, i used a 8mm ratchet box wrench so it was easy to do.
for the driverside cover i just used my long needle pliers to pull up 3 clips
and gently removed it to get to the adjustment dial.
aimed it up, took a test drive, aimed it up a tad more enough that
the beam projected farther outward but not so far that the beam
was weak. also tested highbeam to make sure the aim wasn't too
high.
also drove down a 2 lane dark road to check if ongoing traffic
would flash me.
things are much better.
as far as mine, i used a 8mm ratchet box wrench so it was easy to do.
for the driverside cover i just used my long needle pliers to pull up 3 clips
and gently removed it to get to the adjustment dial.
aimed it up, took a test drive, aimed it up a tad more enough that
the beam projected farther outward but not so far that the beam
was weak. also tested highbeam to make sure the aim wasn't too
high.
also drove down a 2 lane dark road to check if ongoing traffic
would flash me.
#87
02-16-2008, 11:22 PM
does anyone think it is weird that on the drivers side, you take off that plastic trim peice to get to the adjuster, but the passenger side doesn't have that peice, even though the holes are there for it?
#88
02-17-2008, 12:08 AM
Best i can tell, that plastic piece is used to protect the intake so water cannot get in. No intake on the passenger side so it's not needed.
#89
04-04-2008, 03:44 PM
I Got Hid's After I Had Re-aimed My H/lamps But Now They Are All Out Of Control One Is High Off The Groud And The Other One Is Too Low..its Freakking Crazzi Man..lol...anyway Sorry For Caps..im At Work...lol..but Yeah Do You Think Honda Would Re-aim My Lamps FOR FREE..i Tried But Its Too Damn Cold Here In Nj...so Any Info Would Help,,thank You
#90
04-04-2008, 04:09 PM
I Got Hid's After I Had Re-aimed My H/lamps But Now They Are All Out Of Control One Is High Off The Groud And The Other One Is Too Low..its Freakking Crazzi Man..lol...anyway Sorry For Caps..im At Work...lol..but Yeah Do You Think Honda Would Re-aim My Lamps FOR FREE..i Tried But Its Too Damn Cold Here In Nj...so Any Info Would Help,,thank You
You should recheck to see that the bulbs are seated flat in the socket of the headlamp assembly. I've had problems with other vehicles where the bulb was not seated all the way and the aiming was off. Going back to reseat the bulb solved my problem.
#91
08-05-2008, 02:29 AM
To any fellow Fitfreaks with HIDs:
Did any of you readjust the headlights after installing HIDs on OEM housing? I kind of adjusted mine a little lower, but it seems like the light from the HID at night isn't shining far enough.
With the original setting (unchanged), the glare was just unbearable and it seems like everything ahead of me was lit up by my HIDs.
I kind of regret adjusting it at all because now it seems like it's aiming kind of low and it's hard to get that "optimal" position/angle that I want.
Any suggestions would be cool, and pictures would be super awesome!
Thanks!
Did any of you readjust the headlights after installing HIDs on OEM housing? I kind of adjusted mine a little lower, but it seems like the light from the HID at night isn't shining far enough.
With the original setting (unchanged), the glare was just unbearable and it seems like everything ahead of me was lit up by my HIDs.
I kind of regret adjusting it at all because now it seems like it's aiming kind of low and it's hard to get that "optimal" position/angle that I want.
Any suggestions would be cool, and pictures would be super awesome!
Thanks!
#92
08-07-2008, 04:21 PM
Last night I drove my Fit for the first time after dark. And I did notice an inconsistency in the headlights in low beam. The passenger one cast a slanting line to the far right and it's pretty noticeable as you drive. They are about even, except for that.
So I pulled up to the garage door at my parents house and noticed they both did that. The passenger side more so. But when I checked the brights they seem fine.
They obviously need a little adjusting. I read through this thread and I have another question that I haven't seen fully addressed...
There is only one height adjustment per side? I read someone talking about aligning the low beams and then saying the high beams were off. Can they be independently adjusted?
Other than that, the lights seem to have a good throw. I can see pretty far, and I run my fogs to fill in the dark spots closes to the bumper.
Any help would be awesome.
So I pulled up to the garage door at my parents house and noticed they both did that. The passenger side more so. But when I checked the brights they seem fine.
They obviously need a little adjusting. I read through this thread and I have another question that I haven't seen fully addressed...
There is only one height adjustment per side? I read someone talking about aligning the low beams and then saying the high beams were off. Can they be independently adjusted?
Other than that, the lights seem to have a good throw. I can see pretty far, and I run my fogs to fill in the dark spots closes to the bumper.
Any help would be awesome.
#93
08-12-2008, 11:08 AM
The passenger one cast a slanting line to the far right is normal. I lowered my Fit recently and took it to the dealer for aftermarket bulb replacement and headlamp re-alignment. The service manager admitted the lamps are not set correctly from the factory (too low). He adjusted them under warranty even though they replaced the bulbs with aftermarket one's. There was a note on my service invoice regarding the passenger side lamp alignment (slant) you mentioned in your post. Hope this helps.
#95
08-18-2008, 08:38 PM
I'm a little lost. The bolt as far as I've read is concerned with only vertical adjustment, what about horizontal calibration?
#98
08-23-2008, 06:54 AM
I believe the earlier posted diagram is for the non-NA fit, as it shows two adjustment points, and access from the top.
For those with a NA Fit, who wish to adjust them on their own, here's a couple of pictures, using my car as an example:
The label that you see, showing "Up (left arrow)" and "Down (right arrow)" refers to the direction that you should see the gear teeth moving, as viewed from the top of the gear. So, for the headlights to move "Up", the gear moves left.
Some have suggested that you mark your phillips-head screwdriver, and count the number of times you rotate the screwdriver. That didn't work for me, because the screwdriver would slip sometimes, and I wouldn't get a proper count. It was also hard to keep track of the screwdriver mark, while trying to keep an eye on how far up the headlight beam was working its way up my brick wall.
I found it easiest to place a mark on the edge of the "gear", and then keep track of the number of times it spun around instead. I was running about 12 wrist twists of the screwdriver, to make one full rotation of the "gear."
On the driver's side, you have to rotate the screwdriver, so that you get the same effect (gear rotating to the left, as viewed from the top, to raise the headlights):
This is what lurks beneath the plastic shield on the driver's side. It really makes it a pain in the butt to see what's going on, underneath it. You can also see where I marked the gear, and added the left/up, right/down sticker:
If this helps at least one other person, I'll be a happy camper!
For those with a NA Fit, who wish to adjust them on their own, here's a couple of pictures, using my car as an example:
The label that you see, showing "Up (left arrow)" and "Down (right arrow)" refers to the direction that you should see the gear teeth moving, as viewed from the top of the gear. So, for the headlights to move "Up", the gear moves left.
Some have suggested that you mark your phillips-head screwdriver, and count the number of times you rotate the screwdriver. That didn't work for me, because the screwdriver would slip sometimes, and I wouldn't get a proper count. It was also hard to keep track of the screwdriver mark, while trying to keep an eye on how far up the headlight beam was working its way up my brick wall.
I found it easiest to place a mark on the edge of the "gear", and then keep track of the number of times it spun around instead. I was running about 12 wrist twists of the screwdriver, to make one full rotation of the "gear."
On the driver's side, you have to rotate the screwdriver, so that you get the same effect (gear rotating to the left, as viewed from the top, to raise the headlights):
This is what lurks beneath the plastic shield on the driver's side. It really makes it a pain in the butt to see what's going on, underneath it. You can also see where I marked the gear, and added the left/up, right/down sticker:
If this helps at least one other person, I'll be a happy camper!
#99
08-23-2008, 09:52 AM
Wow i didnt think about using a screw driver. that's pretty smart, although i do have the proper crecent wrench with a closed end, to do the job. Great photos!
Im just curious how many turns people turned the gear? I turned my about 270 degrees - towards the up direction (i marked the big gear that we're turning, not the screw driver).
Im just curious how many turns people turned the gear? I turned my about 270 degrees - towards the up direction (i marked the big gear that we're turning, not the screw driver).
#100
08-30-2008, 02:15 PM
I did this last night after I almost clobbered a deer. The lowbeams didn't even touch the deer-- it was on the left-- and thankfully it was foggy out so I had the fogs on and THEY picked it up. It was too close. Lowbeams HAVE to reach farther than 100 ft to be safe!
I marked the gear and did some trial and error. Thankfully I found a flat place to test, the ground is flat for a good 500 feet so its easy to see!
2 turns up from OEM (ccw with screwdriver, so cw on the gear) was pointing up in the air about 1 ft every 100 ft. Too high, to the point highbeams were missing the road.
1 turn up from OEM was great, cutoff dropped about 2" every 100 ft. Highbeams still worked excellent.
1/2 turn up from OEM wasn't much of an improvement. 3/4 was much better with about 6" drop every 100 ft, but road signs were still dark.
I ended up setting to 1 turn up from OEM, it most closely matched the EJ/EK headlight settings from the factory IMO. I liked those, could see forever. Glare is minimal unless I'm rounding the top of a hill but that's normal.
If I'm ever carrying a really heavy load (which almost never happens) I can drop the lights 1 turn by my marker to return them to factory in 2 minutes.
Best mod to the Fit ever.
I marked the gear and did some trial and error. Thankfully I found a flat place to test, the ground is flat for a good 500 feet so its easy to see!
2 turns up from OEM (ccw with screwdriver, so cw on the gear) was pointing up in the air about 1 ft every 100 ft. Too high, to the point highbeams were missing the road.
1 turn up from OEM was great, cutoff dropped about 2" every 100 ft. Highbeams still worked excellent.
1/2 turn up from OEM wasn't much of an improvement. 3/4 was much better with about 6" drop every 100 ft, but road signs were still dark.
I ended up setting to 1 turn up from OEM, it most closely matched the EJ/EK headlight settings from the factory IMO. I liked those, could see forever. Glare is minimal unless I'm rounding the top of a hill but that's normal.
If I'm ever carrying a really heavy load (which almost never happens) I can drop the lights 1 turn by my marker to return them to factory in 2 minutes.
Best mod to the Fit ever.