Fit Suspension & Brake Modifications Threads discussing suspension and brake related modifications for the Honda Fit

DIY- Monroe Rear Air Shocks w/Photos

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Old Jul 13, 2008 | 08:36 AM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by dj_oatmeal
Thanks for the tips. I ended up using an extra set of thin washers on the outside of the cup washers. No extra space.

My only issue now is getting air into them. I pump up to 90 and check the pressure in the system and it was 10. I then checked the fittings to make sure they all looked good. Nothing was pinching the lines and the o rings looked good. Tried again with 90 and it was 12. Jacked the car up to get weight off the shocks and tried again with 90 and got it to 27. Any ideas? The other issue I had was with checking the pressure. The nipple is so recessed that my pressure gauge does did not touch it to release some air to check the pressure. I shaved a little off the end of the threaded section and was able to get readings. Maybe my pump is having the same issue though it works fine on my bikes.
The lines from the filler valve to the shocks are small and fairly lenghty so the time to flow air into the shocks is long. That is also why you MUST use a low flow air pump. Its easy to get 90 psi at the pump and 10 in the shock if you try to do it quickly. And check to see if there are kinked lines or splits that leak.
If you tried to use a gas station or equivalent air pump those are typical problems that result. (thats why AirLift shocks intstruct you to use a low flow hand pump). Pressurizing is a slow process not like filling a bike tire.

PS Out of hundreds of AirLifts installed here over many years I have never seen an air pressure gage that didn't work. Is your gage specific to your bike pump? Trimming a few thousandths off the valve threads shouldn't be a problem other than preventing the air pump nozzle from sealing against the valve. Surely you didn't trim that much?
Good luck.
 
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 02:12 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by manxman
there is so little air volume that is held captive in the hose and air sleeve system, just removing your pressure gauge, or your pump, can result in the loss of 5-10 psi (pull the filler hose or pressure gauge away very quickly). So inflate the system about 10 psi higher than you actually want. When you pull the hose or gauge away, you will lose the extra air. Despite posts to the contrary, + or- 10-20 psi won't make any difference at all in ride height or damping performance.
Ditto that. I've experienced the same thing.

I've also had problems with the Monroe fill valve that came with the shocks. It's a very cheap plastic thing. I think part of the problem is that the diameter is slightly too large for most air hoses/nozzles, so I have to really shove the air hose on there (I use a small 5-gal. air tank, btw, that I refill at gas stations). I've been thinking of replacing the valve with a better quality brass unit if I can find one.
 
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 02:28 PM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by manxman
Hey dj (my initials also),
The extra washer inside the cup won't hurt, but I just tightened the lower bolt with enough torque to squeeze the lower bracket flanges together enough to eliminate rattling. If you ever switch back to a shock that needs the original space between the bracket flanges, they can be bent outward again with locking pliers.

I used rubber washers on the inboard side to cushion any movement an bell washers outside to take up the gap as much as possible. I like the orquing the yoke bolt too though.
5 psi makes a 1/8" difference in ride height measured with a mm post and pointer..
 

Last edited by mahout; Jul 13, 2008 at 07:44 PM.
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 04:51 PM
  #84  
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When I left this morning I tried very small pumps(3-5PSI) and the pressure went right up like I figured it should. You guys are correct that my bike pump flows to much air. It is some sort of double action inside that fills my road tires to 120PSI in like three pumps. Little pumps good normal fast pumps bad I had to shave about 1/16th inch off the filler to get my gauge to read it. It works fine now.

2nd in H stock today with a total of 8 people in class. First time out a few months back in my stock car I was 11% behind the leader in his civic with r compound tires. The next event I added Falken Azenis to the front and finished 6% behind the same driver. Today with the airshocks and front alignment done(-.9 degrees camber and 1/16 toe out) I finished 5% behind the same driver. Getting closer each time.

Thanks for the help and continued growth of knowledge here.
 
Old Jul 13, 2008 | 07:53 PM
  #85  
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Nice work dj! Congrats on the continued improvement.
 
Old Jul 19, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #86  
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I installed my Monroe shocks this morning. Install was pretty straight forward. I was mostly worried about getting the metal cylinder of the stock shocks, but it worked out smoothly. I'd say running the lines was the hardest just because I wanted to make sure the line wouldnt get ripped off by some debris or melt from the exhaust. I'll report back after driving it and loading it with gear in a few weeks.

BTW, thanks for the writeup. I don't think I would have figured out how to get that metal cylinder off the stock shock.
 
Old Jul 19, 2008 | 06:21 PM
  #87  
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Any chance of this being a "sticky?"
 
Old Aug 7, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #88  
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insight please

I was wondering...I had my car fully loaded and i pumped it up to 70psi. I checked it again and it was fine after driving 300 miles or so, but when I got to my destination driving another 900 miles or so and unloaded the car, when I checked the pressure on the shocks it was only 30psi. Is it possible it was 70psi because of the weight on the shocks or my install sucks and I need to check it OR my shocks are leaking.
 
Old Aug 7, 2008 | 11:32 PM
  #89  
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Should have been 70 psi still. Houston we gotta leak.
 
Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:16 AM
  #90  
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Yep smeister- time to pump the shocks back up and spray some soapy water on all the connections, or just twist those connections as hard as you can. One or more is/are leaking.
 
Old Aug 8, 2008 | 12:19 AM
  #91  
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Yeah it's probably my install...I didn't use a razor to cut the lines so maybe THAT is the cause. Either way, the shocks did very well with all the weight I had in there. Cheap and easy install too thanks to the write up.
 
Old Aug 13, 2008 | 08:51 PM
  #92  
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Do I have the right part?

Just received my MA811 shocks from Amazon. The box label says the contents are AK18B (air fill kit) and P1134. I assume P1134 refers to the part number of the shocks. However, the air kit is nowhere to be found and the shocks are black with the numbers 48811 and P309A. Do I have the right part or did some body switch the contents on me?
 
Old Aug 13, 2008 | 09:41 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by fit7ad
Just received my MA811 shocks from Amazon. The box label says the contents are AK18B (air fill kit) and P1134. I assume P1134 refers to the part number of the shocks. However, the air kit is nowhere to be found and the shocks are black with the numbers 48811 and P309A. Do I have the right part or did some body switch the contents on me?
Monroe uses at least 3 colors- white, black & yellow. The "fill kit" is just a black plastic "tee" with threads on the "run" ends to fasten the air line couplers. The "branch" of the tee is threaded to fit the supplied small, thin hex nut that holds the tee wherever you drill the hole to mount it. The tee and nut are probably packaged in your hardware bag along with all of the bushings, washers and hex nuts used to mount the shocks. If you are REALLY missing the black plastic tee, you should call Amazon to arrange for a replacement shock set.
 
Old Aug 15, 2008 | 02:57 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by manxman
Monroe uses at least 3 colors- white, black & yellow. The "fill kit" is just a black plastic "tee" with threads on the "run" ends to fasten the air line couplers. The "branch" of the tee is threaded to fit the supplied small, thin hex nut that holds the tee wherever you drill the hole to mount it. The tee and nut are probably packaged in your hardware bag along with all of the bushings, washers and hex nuts used to mount the shocks. If you are REALLY missing the black plastic tee, you should call Amazon to arrange for a replacement shock set.

Thanks for the reply. I got Amazon to send a replacement set. The missing air kit is not really that big of a deal. I am sure I can find something for it. I just don't want to find out they are the wrong shocks the hard way. One thing I noticed, though, is that the supply of MA811 seems to be dwindling.
 
Old Aug 22, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #95  
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The monroe's MA811 shock kit is currently on sale for 49.99 on Amazon.

Ordered my set.
 
Old Sep 16, 2008 | 11:23 PM
  #96  
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Just figured I would throw this out there for whomever is interested. Back in the day, I had '66 Mustang setup to handle but I also needed to jack it up for loads. We didn't have nearly the aftermarket there is today. To help make those airshocks work better for handling, we didn't use a tee but instead separate valves. By using the "T", and go into a hard corner one airshock pumps air into the other and basically helps twist the rear further over, making it counterproductive to good handling. For what it's worth,...
Also, as far as getting the correct amount of pressure in each one, I would identify how much air I would lose by practicing with my good guage, then I would overfill by the amount the guage would lose. This step would take several tries, usually.
 

Last edited by lhcbc; Sep 17, 2008 at 08:08 PM.
Old Sep 29, 2008 | 01:39 AM
  #97  
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Is it possible to use the MA811's without installing the air-line kit? What kind of valve is on the shock itself?
 
Old Sep 29, 2008 | 01:51 AM
  #98  
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Originally Posted by richard612
Is it possible to use the MA811's without installing the air-line kit? What kind of valve is on the shock itself?
The air lines socket fit into threaded fittings on the back side of the top of the shock, which is the air chamber. The lines go through a cap with threaded i.d.'s, and an o-ring seals the air tube inside the cap which gets screwed onto the threaded air chamber fitting.

Monroe says to maintain a MINIMUM pressure of 20 psi. Using the shocks with no air lines would mean running them at zero air pressure (or rather atmospheric press.). In that case, the rubber sleeve that seals the bottom of the air chamber would wear out quickly from friction against the rise and fall of the shock body within the upper chamber. You would have better luck finding some other non-air shock that fits the Cavalier years that match the Monroe shocks.
 
Old Oct 7, 2008 | 05:23 PM
  #99  
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I ordered these for my 2009 Fit before I read another thread stating that the shocks for the 2009 are not the same length as 2008. I think I might take one off anyway and compare.

Any idea about air shocks for the 2009?

Dave
 
Old Oct 7, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #100  
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Originally Posted by dzager
I ordered these for my 2009 Fit before I read another thread stating that the shocks for the 2009 are not the same length as 2008. I think I might take one off anyway and compare.

Any idea about air shocks for the 2009?

Dave
Sorry for your problem Dave. We all got the Monroe shock model number from member mahout, way before the '09s hit the street. The only thing that I can suggest is to measure the overall length of one of your stock shocks, both compressed and fully extended, measure the i.d.'s of the lower mount holes, keep all of that info. at hand, and then see if any shock maker including Monroe, Gabriel, and any others that you can think of, have a chart on the Internet showing the spec. measurements of their product lines. You might PM mahout for some more ideas.
 



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